I bought a treadstone dp already extended from another member on here and it didn't mate up to my cat as I expected. Bummer. So I'm running open dp right now until I can get to an exhaust shop to fab something up to connect them. SUCKS
And I melted the wastegate line I should have known when I saw a 15psi boost spike (yikes!) and nursed it home. No engine damage thank god, but I used this cheap ass line that came with my vac manifold kit and its melted all over my manifold & SS oil feed line.
What should I use to replace the line so it doesn't melt? I'm not running it right by the manifold or anything, near the top of the valve cover.
Oh, one other thing, my coolant temp gauge isn't working now. Anyone else encounter this? Where's the CTS located? I may have slipped the connector off or something.
#106463, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 0
i assume by wastegate line you mean its vac sourced rubber line from the actual wastegate to the intake manifold.
if limited space is an issue, i would re, using something cheap like brake line, and use a bender to route it cleanly to its proper locations, then use rubber hose to connect the hardline to the nipples of the units.
the CTS, actually their is a sender, a small 1/8ntp treaded sender, in the T stat housing, it has a spade connector at the end of it, and the connector that slides over it, is black with a single 22 gauge wire.
#106468, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 1 May-18-09 08:43 AM by Fallen4ng31
Originally posted by Black Cotton the CTS, actually their is a sender, a small 1/8ntp treaded sender, in the T stat housing, it has a spade connector at the end of it, and the connector that slides over it, is black with a single 22 gauge wire.
And, it's in the water-neck. I know you're local to me, you should swing by the next time you're close. I've still got lots of vacuum tubing and shielding, I'm sure we could rig something up.
#106470, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 2
Thanks for the info on the CTS. I'm at work now so I haven't had a chance to check it out yet.. I have an appointment at an exhaust shop @ 3:30 today so I'm leaving work early to see if they can connect my downpipe to the cat. I'm sure I just accidentally pulled the wire or something while trying to get the stupid manifold on.. those nuts are a BITCH to get on there, the ones on the bottom. And I had to grind on the manifold in the bottom corners a bit to be able to get a socket on the nuts.
Fallen, I'm gonna try some high temp heater hose or something tonight and see if that works. It was quite shocking to open the hood and just see the line melted from the wastegate actuator to the MBC. It was cheaper plastic-type crap, I should have seen this coming lol. But as for a heat shield, that may be a good idea. I have one of those DEI turbo insulation kits I need to put on, that will help. But the manifold is creating a lot of heat too. Maybe this weekend I'll see if I can get over that way.
Btw, I can't use that pipe I bought from you The flanges aren't at the right angle. But I will most likely change the dp in the future and I'll use it then.
#106472, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 4
Good deal, I'll pick one up sometime soon. Right now I just wanna retain the stock cat, gutted, and run that way for a while. I'm starting to save for Megasquirt so when I do that and have the car down for a bit I'll upgrade the exhaust too.
#106503, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 5
First time I used high-pressure air/brake line hose, that melted in like 10 minutes. Used regular vacuum hose, that melted/blew also. Used some thicker vacuum/silicone type hose, and that held for years, as long as you didn't touch it, then it was so brittle it cracked to pieces. Now, since I have a 1/8 npt on my wastegate, I plumbed some 1/4" steel brake line over the length of the manifold, then a rubber line to the MBC - works great
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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark 50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts ARP Head studs Mild port/polish head 3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi
Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim
#106506, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 7
Ok so I replaced the thermostat, drained all the old coolant, flushed the system with Prestone brand radiator flush, even opened the heater all the way up and everything. Refilled with a 50/50 mix + a bottle of the Royal Purple additive (similar to Redline Water Wetter, I couldn't find that stuff so I used what I could). It stays a little cooler at idle and when I'm driving casually, but after extended driving and boosting it still gets hot (maybe 2/3) but also cools back down very quickly once I start taking it easy again.
My downpipe (Treadstone) comes about 1/2" from the radiator at the bottom curve. I'm not sure if it's designed to be like that or if it's just cause I'm not using their full kit and the turbo's outlet flange is positioned a little differently than theirs. Even though it is wrapped with DEI thermal wrap and covered in the silicon sealant paint, I believe it may be transferring heat to the radiator when I boost or keep the turbo spooled. I believe a fan will definitely help with this, so that's next.
I took out some spare heat wrap and wrapped the coolant line that goes right over the manifold, and I plan to wrap the upper radiator pipe too. My manifold gasket is leaking (reused the old one like an idiot) so a new one is on its way. When I put that on, I will wrap the lower pipe too. I can't think of anything else to reduce my temps other than a new radiator.
Btw, how big of a fan can I fit on the passenger side as a pusher (on front of the AC condensor) if I bend the lines that run in front of it? I'm looking at the Jegs slimlines
#106510, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 8 May-26-09 08:55 AM by justins71
Just get a new radiator. Doesn't have to be anything fancy, and unless your head gasket is bad i can guarantee that's your problem, i had the exact same symptoms. Flushing it won't do much good if it's to the point it needs to be rodded out to be functional. You don't wanna risk blowin up your engine for something dumb like that.
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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark 50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts ARP Head studs Mild port/polish head 3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi
#106511, "RE: Finally boosted, but.." In response to Reply # 9
I just realized yesterday that the pipe coming off of the turbo is pushing against the bottom radiator hose. I have a 90-degree bend coming directly off the turbo (pushed up as far as I could get it) and it's resting against the driver's side fan motor. That area is very tight. The radiator hose I mentioned above is effectively being reduced to half its normal diameter. So I'm ordering a slim fan for the driver's side (12") and a smaller (will a 10" fit?) pusher for the outside of the AC condensor to help move air on the passenger's side. Then I can move that IC pipe off of the radiator hose.
I'm crossing my fingers and hoping thats it. I really don't mind replacing the radiator, I'm just hoping thats not it. Cause I hate draining, flushing, and filling cooling systems.
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I should have known when I saw a 15psi boost spike (yikes!) and nursed it home. No engine damage thank god, but I used this cheap ass line that came with my vac manifold kit and its melted all over my manifold & SS oil feed line.
