Starting my turbo build very soon. I'm pretty sure I've collected everything, and the downpipe and manifold were just paid for 2 days ago. Those were the last pieces on my list. I will be doing a detailed write-up of my install with pics of everything to contribute to the wiki. My 99 OZ anniversary edition Eclipse is just shy of 60k miles now, and the timing belt/water pump and accessory belts were just changed.

Tell me if I've forgotten anything.

New oil & filter (changing after I drop the pan and put in bung)- Valvoline SynPower 10w40, Fram filter
Fuel pump- Walbro 255lph HP
Vortech 12:1 FMU
Treadstone replica turbo manifold (Ebay)
Tial 38mm Wastegate (6psi spring)
Ebay T3 super 60 .48 AR turbo - saw the writeup on this turbo in the wiki, I wanna try it out myself and replace with the real deal when it dies
Treadstone downpipe & dumptube, extended to mate to gutted stock cat
3" SRS catback exhaust (already on)
4ft -4an SS braided oil feed line & associated fittings
Assortment of brass fittings to tap stock oil sensor location
ATP oil restrictor
17" -10an SS braided oil return line
-10an steel male weld bung (for oil pan)
Custom made upper intercooler pipe w/ HKS SSQV flange (bought from 2gnt member, made by terry I believe)
Assortment of aluminum bends & silicon couplers for IC piping
Ebay FMIC (8" tall, inlet/outlet on same side)
Prosport mechanical boost gauge
2-gauge pod (saving second spot for Prosport wideband, coming August)
Hallman Pro MBC
Symtech FCD
Black edition HKS SSQV
ATP 3" air filter (going directly on turbo inlet)
Long length of vac line for FMU in back
15' of 10awg primary wire for fuel pump rewire
SPDT relay for fuel pump rewire
4' length of 3/4" high pressure fuel line for FMU
Felpro exhaust manifold gasket
T3 turbo gaskets (downpipe, manifold to hot side)
T-bolt clamps, worm drive clamps, etc.
NGK BKR7ES-11 plugs (I think these are 1 step colder than stock, someone let me know if I should be using something else)

Also looking at getting a Golden Eagle vac manifold and teeing it into the brake booster, then rerouting all my vac/boost feeds to it. It will tidy things up a bit and give my bay a unique feel. I may or may not PC the valve cover, but I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals and VC gasket so that's on the list too.

If I forgot anything let me know, any recommendations also please let me know.

Oh, another thing I wanted to mention-- I realized I forgot to order a connector to mate the 1/2" NPT turbo oil drain flange to the -10an drain line, so I bought 3 brass fittings from Lowes to mate them. A -10an compression fitting, a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, and a 1/2" to 1/2" NPT fitting. Adds about an inch and a half to the line, which I think will be fine. Am I asking for trouble here or will this be ok?

looks fine for your first kit

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

any internal work being done?

No internals yet. I have to buy something shiny and expensive to go on my girl's finger before I get to spend any more money. But I plan to do Crower rods, Wiseco pistons (8.6 comp), Total Seal rings, Crower cams, PT valve train, Brian Crower 4G63 valve springs (they're interchangeable with the 420A), Megasquirt, and 20+ psi sometime next year. Also been contemplating a 2.4 block, but I'll probably stick with the 2.0. For now I'm sticking to 8 psi.

well congrads on the engagement.. I was just wondering cause im starting on mine to but I dont have to buy a shinny thing for a finger, Lol Just for my block.. but good luck on the build

if you have these plans of engine work, I wouldn't install your kit until you have everything done at once.

I say this because if the motor and/or tranny is removed, it lets you run your fuel return easier, clean the bay, run wiring easier for your gauges, etc. Don't do things twice and posssibly fuck up along the way, do it once and have twice the fun. 20psi is fun BTW. lol

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

No need for a return on the 99, all the fuel stuff is in the back It could be late next yr before the internals get done, too. I've built some crazy cars (ie, 1973 Porsche 914 with a Subaru EJ20 turbo engine) so I think I can handle it and make it look good at the same time. Nothing wrong with a little hard work

Originally posted by Mike431635
No need for a return on the 99, all the fuel stuff is in the back

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Well, someone provided this diagram



and I was told to use Configuration #2. There's no return, just one line going to the rail. And I was told all I have to do on a 99 is cut the line going from the FPR to the tank, put in the FMU, run a new line from FMU to the tank return, then run a vac line from the front of the car.

if you're using a regular FMU, you're correct. I have eliminated the stock FPR by using a VROG FMU. If you install your FMU between your rail and stock FPR, you will be fine, otherwise your fuel pressure will limit at 60psi.

I dont know if you understand my explaination but, you're right, I just trust a VROG regulator over a traditional FMU because of adjustability. very good diagram BTW

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Awesome. Yeah I'm using a traditional 12:1 instead of a SFMU. It's proven at 8psi over a long period of time, and I just want something consistent and relatively cheap. I got the FMU for like $100 shipped from a guy on Ebay. I plan to build a Megasquirt system myself to run full standalone and wanna take the time to do it properly and fully understand what I'm doing. That's half the fun

Originally posted by Mike431635
I wanna take the time to do it properly and fully understand what I'm doing. That's half the fun

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Sounds like a good idea. Especially since it is exactly what I will be doing as well. Built block next year or so after I get to enjoy my car this summer. I just got done with almost the exact setup as you and everything is running just peachy. 7 psi is definitely an improvement over stock.

If you do pick up a vacuum manifold, I'd suggest not T'ing into the brake booster line.

Just replace the 3 prong fitting on the manifold, and put in a 3/8npt to 3/8 barbed hose fitting.(I'm pretty sure the golden eagle has a 3/8 feed, double check first)

And those are the spark plugs that I use.

built and boosted 420a avenger

Gonna skip the vac manifold and do that project at a later time. I got the dp and manifold in today. All my bolt holes line up I do have questions though.. I don't have bolts for anything but the wastegate. I need to get some new stock exhaust bolts and some bolts to mate the dp to the exhaust. That's no big deal.

However, I don't know the sizes for the following bolts:

Wastegate to manifold
Wastegate to dump tube
Turbo to manifold (using a 60 trim T3)
Turbo to downpipe

Anyone care to help me out?

How much does all of this cost?

I'm broke, it's broken. I'm broke because it's broken. It's broken because I'm broke.

Simplicity Car Club - Founding Member

I have a spreadsheet at work with the exact cost of everything I've spent, but I won't be there til Monday. All in all, I believe I've spent in the neighborhood of $1600-1700 including shipping and all the annoying little misc odds and ends. Only thing I still don't have is exhaust manifold gasket + bolts.

You have agood handle on it but let me make a couple suggestions.

The .48a/r turbo.......that is going to be rather too small for the turbine side....you will be very limited on the top end and depending on your setup it may spool too fast. PM kirby....he has hit the surge line quite a few times due to it on the same turbo. Look for a T3 with a .63 turbine a/r. you will be happy with that and it will support you to 20 psi. The "Star Turbo" was a .63 40 trim compressor upgradable to 50 trim compressor and it is a very well suited turbo for our cars. Try to find something very similer and it will be a turbo that outlives your interest!

The ATP restrictor is for a Ballbearing turbo....you wont nee dit unless you upgrade your center section to a BB CHRA.

For Spark plugs you want the BKR7ES.......not the -11's. The -11's are not meant to be regapped, doesnt mean you cant do it but NGK recommends going with the BKR7es becuase they are concerned with the -11's not being designed to be regapped. The claim it increases the possability of the electrode breaking. In the past i have done it and not had an issue but well, the manufacturer knows more than I. You want to pick up plug number NGK 4644


The Upper IC pipe.....if you got it from Foggy, then its a Stainless pipe with a Stainless flange. You should be very happy with it. Any problems let me know.

The rest of your list looks pretty good.

That turbo will work great....go for it.

My concern is the restrictor. I understand your worry to blow too much oil in there but not enough is going to wear those floating bushing out very fast. That turbo relys on oil to keep the bearings cool and lubricated. Not enough oil and they will get too hot, the little oil will coke up around the bearings and then the bearings will wear out destroying the center section as well. You will be looking at a replacement with no chance of rebuild.

My advise is to step down to a -3an and run a 90 degree fitting with NO restrictor into the top of that center section. -4an will be too large and I could understand that rushing too much oil into it when the oil is cold and the pressure is high.

Thats what i meant. sorry

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Anyone know a good place to buy the exhaust gasket and bolts online? The stock stuff? Nearest Mitsu dealership to me is in Brandon, which is too much a drive on the weekdays imo, and I don't wanna confuse the shit out of the Dodge/Chrysler parts guys telling them I need parts for a Mitsubishi.

Chryslerpartsdirect.com

Thanks I couldn't find them there though.. anyhow, I decided to use studs & nuts, I'll pick some up at Napa this weekend. Still need to get a MLS gasket though, I found a Mopar part number which should work. 1-04621833