My fpr wont hold the idle fuel pressure. I will set it to about 50, tighten the nut, then drive, open up the hood later and find it between 70 and 80. is this normal?

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
HRC Stage 2 w/FMIC | AFX UDP | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt

HRC Stage II w/ FMIC | AFX UDP | Magnecore Wires | Tanade GPower Medallion | Tokico Stuts and Springs | 18x8 Konig Villains | Yokohoma Paradas | Damn Good Stereo | A bunch of other common shit | Completely Rebuilt

Damn! that car was F$&6& up. Looks alot better now.
As for the FPR, yes it is normal and seems to happen all the time with the Bell Engineering FPR's. Your Idle preasur is not as important as the Fuel Preasure under boost is, so dont worry too much.

Here is what I have have.
JE 8:8.1 with rings boared .20 over
Seinze custom rods (600+hp)
Knife edged and shaved crank
Clevite bearings
Shaved oil pump to bump up oil preasure
Stage 3 ported and pollished head
twin Accel coil packs
PT lashers
ov

I heard alot of HRC people complain that the BELL FPR sucked ass. It is "inconsistent". But like Ray said, your idle pressure is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you have plenty of fuel when under boost.

Oh by the way, did you take pics of your fuel system install?

-K-

If your idle pressure is screwed up, your boosted pressure will probably be screwed up too. If you've got 80 psi at idle, then your going to have WAY too much fuel under boost. Personally, I wouldn't tolerate 20-30 psi fluxuations in fuel pressure. When I was using the Bell FPR, I was getting temperature related fluxuation in fuel pressure...about as bad as you're describing. HRC said they had never heard of any fluxuation over a couple psi...and had no suggestions. Large fluxuations in fuel pressure are just unacceptable and dangerous. I tossed the Bell, and went for a Vortech. I've never looked back since.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

Corbin is right, if there is a fluxuation in your boost fuel preasure then it is very dangerous. However to say that it is gonna be the case just because the idle is messed up is not all true. I have seen every HRC kit have this problem, but when under boost there was no problem hitting 100 + psi of fuel. The adujting needle adjust the boost F preasure seperatly than does the idle one, I will bet you will not see the same fluxuation in the FPR under boost as you are at idle.

Here is what I have have.
JE 8:8.1 with rings boared .20 over
Seinze custom rods (600+hp)
Knife edged and shaved crank
Clevite bearings
Shaved oil pump to bump up oil preasure
Stage 3 ported and pollished head
twin Accel coil packs
PT lashers
ov

i have the same damn problem... i set it to 50... and after a while its at 80! i think the boost pressure is ok though.

2GNT Member #76, since Fall 1999

Drives: 2004 Mazda RX-8
Drove: 1999 Saab 9-5 SE
1999 Eclipse GS Hahn Stage 1

hmm, ok, thanks for the support, maybe when i get some money i will buy a different fpr. but for now things seem to be running good.

Kelly

- 97 Eclipse GS -
HRC Stage 2 w/FMIC | AFX UDP | Tanabe GPower Medallion | Magnecore Wires | Konig Villain 18x8s | Yokohoma Paradas | Tokico Premium Springs/Struts | F&R Stut Braces | Rear GST Disc Brakes and Sway Bar | Tint/Clear Corners/Big Stereo/Etc | Completely Rebuilt

HRC Stage II w/ FMIC | AFX UDP | Magnecore Wires | Tanade GPower Medallion | Tokico Stuts and Springs | 18x8 Konig Villains | Yokohoma Paradas | Damn Good Stereo | A bunch of other common shit | Completely Rebuilt

My hrc regulator did that so i took it apart
if you are mechanically inclined i recommend you do the same.
there is a rectangular piece of stainless steel that is used as a shim valve to bypass fuel. this shim stock is .003 inch thick. it is a piece of shit, mine bent all out of wack after like 20 miles. well i took it out and cut a piece of stainless steel .004 inch shim stock into a SQUARE not a rectangle like the original and replaced it. This plate is pushed on by a piston which determines how much fuel is bypassed and sent back to the tank which in turn regulates the fuel pressure. well i said it before, and i'll say it again, the tolerances, fit and finish of the unit is no good. i took the piston out and polished it to a mirror, and then i made sure everything was sealed up and put everything back together. now my fuel pressure at idle is solid at 57psi and may fluctuate like 1 or 2 psi as temperature fluctuates, but it that is acceptable. and the rise rate is super smooth and responsive. I was thinking of getting the vortech s-fmu also but it is like 300 bucks and it has -6threaded fittings on it so i dunno how other people used it, i guess they swapped all their fuel return lines out. oh well try it you'll like it!
lates
james

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy

Hey james you should do a write-up on how to do this mod. It seems that everyone that has put the kit on is haveing this problem w/ the fpr. I kinda understand what you are talking about but a write-up (step by step) would be alot more helpful. (to me at least) Im like you I dont want to spend 300 for the vorteck.

okay i'll make one, i'll do a writeup when i get time, maybe like monday or tuesday and let everyone know! i think it will help alot!

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy

one more thing to check out on your FPR. there is a little hole on the center section of the FPR body put your finger on it and see if there is a vaccum. if there is then the fpr is leaking vaccum from the upper half to the center half, if this is the case then you will not ever have the correct fuel pressure. just something i noticed while playing with the unit

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy