Ok i have tried this post before and some people may have gotten mad at me or thought i was insulting their inteligence, but i was in no way trying to... just please read the WHOLE story and think clearly before saying "its your tune" PLEASE lol
I have a 95 boosted 420a
Eagle rods
Je 8.8:1 pistons
polished crank
Turbonetics t3/t4e 50 trim
HAHN racecraft FMIC and piping
HAHN PortFueler stage 5 (stock injectors as primary 48lb secondary)
Aeromotive red 1:1 AFPR
Walbro 255 LPH HP fuel pump
NGK BKR7E-11 Plugs
Innovate LC-1 wideband
Motor just rebuilt 600 miles ago
there are many more upgrades on the car but to keep it short these are all that i feel needs to be listed

THE PROBLEM:
i can run my car through 1st and 2nd gear all day with the tune i have and run rich from 1000-7500rpm it will STAY rich... however 3rd gear and above where it takes more fuel, more strain, and more load it goes DEAD LEAN
if i am floating down the road in 3rd gear or try to do a dyno pull it runs rich up to between 4500 and 5500 rpm... in that range she goes DEAD lean, i go from 10.9 and 11.0 rich AFR to 16.7 22.4 LEAN at the snap of a finger

ACTION TAKEN:
~adjusted the original SplitSecond FTC that i had and tweaked it to the max, nothing good ever cam out of it so i~~ switched to my hahn portfueler off my other eclipse that does run flawlessly and never goes lean...
~Tuned the cell values in the selected columns (4500-5500) to the max allowed value JUST to see if it would change and go rich AT ALL...NOPE still lean no matter what my fuel map is adjusted at but only 3 gear or higher
~installed new cam sensor
~new crank angle sens
~new walbro 255
~new afpr aeromotive 1:1
~swappwd ECU from red car to this black nightmare
~new injectors for the portfueler and stock rail
~adjusted fuel pressure all over the place from 50psi all the way down to 30 and back up to 65...
~if you WATCH the fuel pressure gauge while doing a dyno pull it DOES go up like it should with boost but still the car goes lean, so i dont believe delivery is a problem
~new plugs
~ran extra engine grounds
~new map sens
~then checked for continuity from all plugs to (power, ground, and ecu)
~Compression test (EXACTLY 120psi on all four cyl.) which amazed me cause it didnt even varie by 1psi lol
all those steps and a few more i am sure i am forgetting to mention have been taken and yet STILL the car has the same prob. my wideband matched what the dynamics dyno wideband says and you FEEL the car go dead lean so i know its not a prob with that
WHAT CAN I DO??
if anyone has some idea or has been here please let me know as i am pulling my friggin hair out!
to terry and those guys whom i may have rattled off too before MY BIGGEST APPOLOIGIES, never ment to offend anyone but i have tried so much and everyone just says "well its your tune" or "yup cam sens" and if you ONLY knew the bullshit i have tried to fix this i think you would understand a bit better!
thanks,
Gavin

How much boost are you running?

I think I know whats going on........

What is your plug gap?

does it just fall lean or does it give you a good cough and go lean

plug gap is 30 and no real cough...just leans off fast and u can def feel it...boost is still registering normal on the gauge and then u just feel the complete loss of power and pull when the car runs lean! as far as boost doesnt matter if you go 5psi or 22 psi.. same symptoms
whatcha got on ur mind?

Where did you run the 12v+ for the split second?

i dont have split second anymore... hahn portfueler stage 5 with autometer tach adapter but the power for that is to a 20 amp fuse inside the car under the dash...(20 amp ignition acc fuse) um its on a little wire/fuse connector thing. where should it be ran to, cause i know it works, it does kick the secondary injectors on and make it pig rich before the lean point

Do you need to argue every damn time? The hahn portfueler which is not a stage 5 is a split second unit. Open it up and take a look.

Hahn used the stage 5 term if you had thier stage 2 turbo kit added the portfueler added their recommended clutch ect ect ect. Ask "blackmagic" he purchased the entire Stage 5 setup for 10,000.00 3 years ago. Do a search and find his post.

This is why no one wants to help you. we ask simple questions and you want to assume we are going to tell you this or that. My questions are all relevant to a theory which has NOTHING TO DO WITH TELLING YOU YOUR ARE NOT GETTING POWER AT THE RIGHT PLACE.

I am done trying to help you. You dont want to listen or are smarter than everyone then go figure it out yourself. I entered this post with an open and patient mind and you have managed to ruin that.

dude why do you get so mad... i was NOT arguing with you in the slightest.. u said splitsecond... i thought you ment the splitsecond i had before im sorry i already told you i am not trying to argue... this is why i hate forums so much there is a lack of emotion and you cant tell if someone is arguing or just making a statement... now please go on with what you were going to suggest. you asked a simple question i answered the question to the best of my ability i was NOT trying to argue or jump to conclusions, i was stating that i THOUGHT i had it in a good power source that is all

Dang, that sucks. Sound like a short of some kind. I remember when i was having an ecu short it would cut my engine on and off sometimes but only at idle, then one day it went dead. Drove me mad. Then a 2gnt guy came and helped me run contiuity tests on everything.

I don't know much of anything but have you checked your actual hardware and stuff for burnouts. I'm just hypothising with the non existant knowledge. But i'll tell you wat i'd do...

...something someplace seems to be just burning out in your fuel system hardware. Cause your engine runs normal till a certain point. If it was ignition i would believe you would go pig rich (from the unburnt fuel). If it was a timing or timing sensor wouldn't it affect the whole power band? If you say your primaries are fine, then your secoundaries fire and the split sec after you go lean then its gotta be your tuning equipment.

IDK much about the hahn stuff. Maybe you could try running the car with only the primaries on low boost first, see what you get. If it still happens then its one of two things. A miss someplace in the tuning. (does hahn software have highspeed and low speed maps?) or a stock piece of hardware is fucked...Since you've say you've replaced any possible culprits in the stock category we are left with the tune. If it doesn't happen then its the fuel hardware. Gotta be...

...What i do, and this may suck, but i'd uninstall all the portfueler stuff and check it all over or something. Then re-install in a different manner and start over, or better yet. Borrow someone elses fuel maps. Try them. Often we overlook a numbers mistake cause it all looks good in our mind.

Just some thoughts till you get some real help.

I love my car...
I love Horsepower...
I love reliability...
So why do i own a DSM again?

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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

sry man. Just no one else seemed to wanna help. But watever, i'll shut up.
I love my car...
I love Horsepower...
I love reliability...
So why do i own a DSM again?

no man by all means post away... any advise is accepted i mean at this point i will try whatever is suggested that i havent... i just wish terry didnt get so mad at me over nothin cause he is from what i hear "extremely knowledgable" and "ur best chance at fixing it" thats all lol

Well, my help isn't going to be very useful here, just methodolical. A process of elimination/trial and error thing. Takes a while but its how i would do things when i got time and no advice. What i got is what's above. I wish i could give more, man.

And, i can give you advice about the other problem. I found it was how i was wording things. I couldn't be lazy. I had to be very specific and think things through very thoroughly. It helped alot. Its hard but that's what i had to do. (thats comin from an 18 year old by the way) I'm patient with everyone cause i know people, and a few specific people, that have been very, VERY, patient with me. I think its only right i should pass it on.

I love my car...
I love Horsepower...
I love reliability...
So why do i own a DSM again?

I had a lil thought re-reading your OP. How's your boost levels?

Have you checked your wastegate? If it stays shut or isn't functioning properly you could be getting WAYYY too much air in there. Or you map sensor could be freaking out.

You could be havin an infinate boost problem of some type. Such as a bad vaccum line or some crazy BS like that.
I love my car...
I love Horsepower...
I love reliability...
So why do i own a DSM again?

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Just a few thoughts:

1. It happens at higher RPM, so there is a possibility that you are getting valve float from the springs not holding the rocker tight to the lobe. This can happen if you have very aggressive cams with stock springs. It can also happen if the springs are worn or if they are just a weak set altogether.

2. You may have a split vac line near the port fueler's MAP sensor. I'm sure you have watched the port fueler read RPM and pressure (do not look at your boost gauge for this test), but you may want to double check it using an air compressor with a regulator set at 25-30 psi to be sure that it reads accurately and quickly responds to fast fluxuations in pressure. It would be best to pressure test the entire system from the turbo to the head if you can. A sudden boost leak from a loose coupler could also cause this problem (especially on an 8 injector setup like mine and yours).

3. Double check the coolant temp sensor reading using a data logger (not the temp sending unit that sends a signal to your gauges).

4. Test the resistance of your coil and plug wires against the specs in the FSM (can't remember the specs off the top of my head or I would share). If you can't find them, let me know and I'll dig them up. If they are not within range, I'd bet this is your problem.

5. Re-gap your plugs to 0.020". 0.030" should be fine (especially at only 5-7 psi) but I would give it a try anyway. If you're getting a weak spark, the boost will blow it out at higher RPM.

6. Double check for loose wires or pinched fuel lines. If you are using stock motor mounts, the engine will shift more than normal with a turbo at WOT. Make sure something isn't getting shorted, disconnected or pinched off with the movement of the motor. If your electrical connections are not all soldered, solder them and seal the connection off with heat shrink.

7. Look for a major exhaust restriction (especially if you have an internally gated turbo). i.e.: Damaged cat converter, ex girlfriend stuffed something in muffler, tool fell in downpipe when installing... etc.

Matt

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...