#101958, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 1
Shouldn't have to do anything during the winter with a turbo setup. Maybe allow more time for the turbo to cool down. I've gone through a winter already with a turbo setup and it was perfectly fine.
Mike D -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by DR1665 You're welcome to all the beer you can drink, but you have to go get it yourself. Don't get pissy when we point to the fridge and tell you to get it yourself.
#101963, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by bigrob3232 I would lower your boost next to nothing or just disconnect IC piping to keep it from torquin up while driving on ice
Uhh.. what?
"Oh, here's some ice, lemme go ahead and stop and disconnect my IC piping.."
yeah, right. That's dumb. How about you just stay out of boost on icy roads, eh? That make more sense?
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#101964, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 3
You'll be fine. If you still have stock internals you may want to turn the boost down a couple of PSI just to be extra safe, cooler air means more dense air...but after it goes through the turbo the difference is negligible. Just don't be stupid.
#101966, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 4
Just depending how cold it gets where you are you should let it cool down before shutting down- don't want it to cool too quickly (think back to chemistry class and hot glass test-tubes meets cold water)
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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark 50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts ARP Head studs Mild port/polish head 3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi
#101967, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by justins71 Just depending how cold it gets where you are you should let it cool down before shutting down- don't want it to cool too quickly (think back to chemistry class and hot glass test-tubes meets cold water)
You're trying to compare how glass cools down compared to cast iron?
Just let your car cool down for 30seconds to a minute after you park and you're gonna be fine. The whole point here is not to drive like an asshat with a boosted car in the winter. Common sense.
#101968, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 6 Nov-09-07 03:12 AM by justins71
just tryin to save manifold flanges! And I'm only talkin if you see (-) degrees temps... I've worked on way to many diesels that drive hard and shutdown early, and the (cast) manifolds shrink up quickly. They usually don't crank the manifold (has happened) but they break the studs. I know our manifolds are smaller, but it still happens. Just a precaution! But yeah i agree, moving from Iowa to Texas i've seen waaay to many stupid people in winter time who don't know how to react with ice/snow... and having a Grand National up north, a loss of traction for a brief second while throttling and you'll spool youself into the ditch if you're not careful.
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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark 50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts ARP Head studs Mild port/polish head 3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi
#101970, "RE: Boo winter :/" In response to Reply # 7
haha alright so ill turn my boost down and let my car cool down a bit longer.. but i dont have a turbo timer but i know to let the car idol for a bit to cool down the turbo.. hmm turbo timer??
also should i get a mesh thing to protect the front of my intercoolr?
Car Status: P0140 o2 circuit number bank 1 sensor 2 Cel. Ill fix it tomorow lol.
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And I'm only talkin if you see (-) degrees temps... I've worked on way to many diesels that drive hard and shutdown early, and the (cast) manifolds shrink up quickly. They usually don't crank the manifold (has happened) but they break the studs. I know our manifolds are smaller, but it still happens. Just a precaution!