#101693, "oil lines and fittings" Oct-17-07 11:14 AM by 95eclipseSlow
what exact size oil lines and fittings do i need all together? Where can i get these parts? This is including everything even the thing that mounts to the oil pan all the fittings, lines all that stuff?
#101694, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow what exact size oil lines and fittings do i need all together? Where can i get these parts? This is including everything even the thing that mounts to the oil pan all the fittings, lines all that stuff?
For what?
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#101703, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 4
The return is pretty straight forward... just a 10-AN steel weld fitting on the oil pan and an outlet flange (eBay) plus a 1/2" NPT-1/2" to 10-AN fitting on the turbo.
I'll say that my setup has worked pretty well for the most part. It served its purposes for a basic 16G setup. I did, however, notice a very slight amount of leaking around where the 3/8" adapter connects to the block.
For my next attempt at an oil feed, I'm using a 3/8"-4-AN 45* steel Aeroquip adapter in the block. A small length of 4-AN line then goes to a 4-AN-1/8NPT-4-AN gauge adapter for the oil pressure sender. That adapter is then directly connected to an oil filter (for the ball bearing turbo cartridge), which is finally connected to a longer length of 4-AN line and then the turbo.
The outlet is pretty much the same, except the flange has changed.
#101705, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 5
you dont like me do you? ive given you everything you needed in one post, the rest can be found by taking the turbo to a speedshop and sitting down with someone, going to www.atpturbo.com or similar turbo fittings website, doing some research and reading old posts, or sitting in your garage with the turbo and car and looking at how your unique turbo will fit into the car. what i used to fit my turbo will be different from the way someone else did it. there is no set list on how to install these things (unless its from hahn or star) and ALL the general information has been covered in previous posts.
so this is the last time im helping on this
Read Chapter 4 pg. 39 on Turbocharger Lubrication in Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" he has good diagrams and discusions on this topic
Originally posted by foggy45 7. the lines are simple enough to work with although id get some nice new AN fittings for the oil and water lines. again atpturbo should have most everything you need if you dont have a local speed shop that you can take the turbo in and get it all. to identify your lines is easy. the largest one on there is the oil return. i wouldnt use the stock one since our routing will be different and you'll need the straightest possible run. grab a -10 AN fitting and your good. directly opposite this drain is the oil inlet. as this is a Garett BB unit you'll need a restricter inline to keep the oil pressure in the turbo at about 25-40 psi. the propper fitting is a -4AN male to -4AN reverse flare with a .035" hole so i'd get this from somplace like atpturbo http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-021&Category_Code=GTBB
sum up 1. oil inlet and from the block, like VelocitaPaola diagram sez, use it as a base and adapt it to your car 2. outlet is -10AN you need to find a fitting for a T3 outlet alas i did that for you http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-009&Category_Code=ATP-OIL2 3. straight line from turbo drain into pan. get a weldable -10 fitting or bulkhead type (people have had sucess either way)
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Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
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#101733, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 7
You should always use Teflon paste (not tape) on NPT threaded fittings (not on -AN fittings). Teflon paste eliminates leaks for the most part. For larger joints (such as at the block), try using Teflon paste toward the end of the threaded portion, and some anaerobic sealant further up.
Also, flares and -AN fittings aren't interchangeable. They'll work together, but you'll need something to seal the connection. -AN connected with other -AN fittings, on the other hand, were designed to seal with no sealants and minimal torque.
#101734, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 8
and for the return you used 10-an ss hose right? I also had a question about that. What if i buy the hose and its too long? Can i cut it? But if i cut it it wont have the fitting at the end of it anymore so then what do i do?
#101735, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 9
You will have to install the fittings on the ends of the return line regardless. They do not come pre-fitted. You will need some sort of a reciprocating saw to cut the -10 AN stainless line without fraying the steel fibers. Once that is done, install the fittings. I will warn you now, they are a bitch to put on the first time around.
This is what it should look like in general:
Mike D -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by DR1665 You're welcome to all the beer you can drink, but you have to go get it yourself. Don't get pissy when we point to the fridge and tell you to get it yourself.
#101743, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 11
when my turbo is mounted my oil drain is on the top instead of the bottom. Will it still work right? Your drain is on the bottom of your turbo like its suppose to be but mine is on the top of my turbo =(. Seems like it should still work right?
#101745, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 12 Oct-22-07 11:22 AM by djtrickee
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow when my turbo is mounted my oil drain is on the top instead of the bottom. Will it still work right? Your drain is on the bottom of your turbo like its suppose to be but mine is on the top of my turbo =(. Seems like it should still work right?
You need to seriously consider slowing down your install, doing a shit ton more research and actually learn how turbos and all the corresponding parts work and work together on a 420a. If you don't know how to install such a simple thing as a turbo to an exhaust manifold then how the hell are you going to get the tuning right and troubleshoot the install later? Something you seriously need to consider...
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#101751, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 15
Originally posted by djtrickee
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow actually i know how to bolt it up. My turbo is wayyyy different from any of yours.
Ok, whatever you say.
LoL, funny.
Mike D -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by DR1665 You're welcome to all the beer you can drink, but you have to go get it yourself. Don't get pissy when we point to the fridge and tell you to get it yourself.
#101752, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 14
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow actually i know how to bolt it up. My turbo is wayyyy different from any of yours.
do a search for "CLOCKING YOUR TURBO"
and NO, there is no way in HELL it will drain upwards
and all turbos are the same there pall, the differences are in the sizing.
______________________________________ ______________________________________ "Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it." "My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."
Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
Ahhhh Priceless . . . eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red" RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"
#101754, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 17 Oct-23-07 10:23 AM by 95eclipseSlow
ok. thank you for the constructive criticism. im just trying to do this right so i dont mess my car up like my dad says i am going to. anyways, i cant find the snap ring on my compressor housing =(
#101845, "RE: oil lines and fittings" In response to Reply # 18
If you don't want to fuck it up then listen to what dj, mike, and foggy are saying. Installing a turbo is not a simple bolt on and go with application. There is a lot of research you need to do and you need to know how to tune your turbo as well. Don't just say your turbo is different. Explain why it is and people will help you figure out what you need to do.
Like foggy said you need to clock your turbo. Gravity flows downward thus the drain line NEEDS to be at the bottom. Just like the picture showed (Mike's I think?).
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