Ok so heres the deal. I've been looking into getting HIDs for my car but my dealer here says that he heard they will melt the aftermarket projector housings. Has anyone tried this, and if so have you had any problems, do you have any pics of the light output, does it make the projectors worth a shit since they're useless now? Any info would help, thanks in advance
-----------------------------------
97 RS-T, STAR Stage 2, HAHN FMIC, Decah Lambo Doors, 19" Axis Hiros, Built 420a
-----------------------------------

no probs with my projectors/hid setup- heres some pics- dunno if this will help, it was an 8000k kit. I never used regular lights in the projectors so i cant compare, but light output was pretty bright, considering the 8000k is blue. If you were to go lower K (more white) it will be brighter as the light is more white.




Evan B
92 TSI
97 GS- sold
90 GSX-sold
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

also can i dunno which kit to order will a normal h3 kit work? or do i need to get an eclipse specific one with h3 blubs for the projectors?
-----------------------------------
97 RS-T, STAR Stage 2, HAHN FMIC, Decah Lambo Doors, 19" Axis Hiros, Built 420a
-----------------------------------

I've had HIDs on my car for over a year with projector housings. I got mine from

www.proxenon.com german Bohmen projectors like in Mercedes and BMW

They worked out really well and I love them. Projectors (most of them) suck really bad for lighting compared to stock, the HIDs helped out a lot. The shop even helped me out cause I ordered the wrong damn kit. After a month or more they exchanged them for the right kit. Shipping was quick. Easy to install, direct plug in and the ballasts were pretty small and easy to mount inside the metal frame by the bumper with stickem. I ordered the 4300k kit I think. It looks really white and a tiny bit blue. The lower the Kelvin, the brighter the lumens the bulb will be. The higher the lumen, the more color you will get out of the kit i.e more blue to even purple by 12,000k. Those kits are more expensive because they burn hotter, but they provide less lumens, which means they aren't going to be as bright. They might even be hot enough to damage your housing. But I wouldn't sweat anything up to about 8k.

My reco, get a 5k or 6k kit, you'll be happy with the light, and be happy with the color. There's more info on the webpage about them too.

PM me if you have questions with kits or install advice. Good luck-

Fully Built MS powered 99' GS Sport, Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim with one big ass intercooler!

Yeah, she runs...sorta!

just get the 4100k bulbs like every other stock HID equipped vehicle out there. You'll get the most light out of it, and if you want the nice blue/purple flicker, just use stock bmw/mercedes/audi projectors and do a retrofit. Best bang for your buck.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

ive got projectors and HID's on my RS. im using TYCO HID's from a 97 E320 benz w/the xenon option model. my housings are metal so i dont have any meltdown or overheating problems. the whole setup is connected by just two wires into my factory wiring and no problems with anything. heres some photos.



this last one is a comparison of a stock bulb on the one side and the HID one the other.

let me know if you got more questions or if you want a set of these, i think i can get you another one.

I just wish my car was as fast as it was loud. people tell me i should use my sub to push it, it might go faster.

I think it shouldnt matter but if not than you probaly have to go with the one that fits your projectors.

About the color wise. If you want to have like factory look go for 4300k but if you want something different color go with like 5000k-8000k

f/s
Evo III 16g turbo brand new
1g turbo head
Rebuilt 6bolt turbo block

4300k is your best bet for the most light output. Anything above 8000k is a giant waste of money. I just put some 6000k bulbs in my BMW. They seem to be perfect for color and light output if you don't want the yellow/white color of 4300k.

Jason
'11 Ford Mustang GT/CS
'11 Ford Mustang V6 6-Speed (SOLD)
'04 Nissan 350z Touring (SOLD)
'95 Turbo Eclipse GS (SOLD and will be missed)
'90 Talon TSi AWD (SOLD)

The best looking ones in my opinion are the 4300k, then retrofit projectors from a Acura TSX, and do the washer mod... that way, you still get a very sharp cutoff, except with a big blue band... so that when you are driving down the road and go over bumps, for instance, it looks like your headlights are blinking blue.. and you still get very good visibility.

1995 Eagle Talon ESi

there should never be any problems with HID's melting housings. if your housings can withstand standard halogen bulbs HID's will be fine. HID's put out significantly less heat than halogen's. it's a completely different technology. this is also why they're more energy efficient and draw less power while putting out MORE light. less energy is being wasted in the form of heat. it's a known fact that aftermarket headlights use cheaper plastic with a lower melting point so if anything you'd be better off with HID's than halogens. that's why people's housings get messed up when they have aftermarket housings and high output "super white" halogen bulbs. those bulbs put out more heat than a standard halogen and easily melt the soft plastic.

-marc

Form experience: people burn their housings/plugs/relay/switches cuz they put 100W light bulbs in the car which is about double the standard light bulb. The name has nothing to do with it it's the power. Another fact is that if you get a Chinese blue/zenon/white etc... light bulbs rated at 50w there is a big chance that it will light up your way worth than stock. With 100w you WILL burn something. Keep it the same power rating.

Everything else I agree with mcubed45

Thanks for reading

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
98 Stock Talon ESi
Mods: New spark Plugs, and UDP
I know spark plugs are not a mod but the car runs so smooth now.