And I must say, It is beautiful. This is the first time I've ever been able to push the buttons on the wheel and be guaranteed a beep. I also raised the buttons so theyd be easier to push. Everyone with horn issues must do it. I cant wait to be cut off in traffic. Satan couldn't fix this for the previous owner , they replaced the entire wheel supposedly. Gotta love write-ups.

AIM - scirio

What is this "write up" you speak of and where can I get it?

___________________________________
97 Talon-SOLD
95 GS-T-SOLD
08 F-150

Good to know because I need to do this. haha. My horn sucks.

Originally posted by scirio
And I must say, It is beautiful. This is the first time I've ever been able to push the buttons on the wheel and be guaranteed a beep. I also raised the buttons so theyd be easier to push. Everyone with horn issues must do it. I cant wait to be cut off in traffic. Satan couldn't fix this for the previous owner , they replaced the entire wheel supposedly. Gotta love write-ups.

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

I still need to try this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157600

hrm. I'm dealing with horn issues myself.

Horn quit working a few weeks back. Both buttons stopped working simultaneously, so I don't think its the contact problem mentioned at that link. Also, I can hear a clicking when I press them, which judging by a web page I found, should indicate that the switches are working? The fuse was ok, too.

Next, I used Dino's CAPS images to find the location of the horn. While trying to remove it, the bolt sheared. I got a $12 replacement from AutoZone, but noticed that you cannot use the harness connectors with it. I didn't like the premise of cutting the nice water-resistant connector off, either. So, I took the dremel to the old horn and carved out the attached male connector plug. The plan then was to wire up the hacked male plug to the new horn, and then connect it to the female socket. But, the horn still didn't work! I'm still trying to figure that out.

Question 1:
How do you test a relay? I got continuity in my little frankenstein assembly, but something is still wrong as now it is blowing fuses.



I am also implementing another solution. The stock horn is okay for a "defensive" notification, but have always wanted something in the nature of an "offensive weapon". Something to use against primered kamikaze-ricers, as well as the lumbering SUVs, lifted "Got Dirt?" punk-asses in pickups, and lane-wandering blue hairs we have on Southland freeways.

I settled on the Hella Supertone diaphragm style (85115 http://www.rallylights.com/hella/horns.asp), since they are smaller and quicker reacting than airhorns. I have a seperate switch to use for it too. Since I moved my lighter outlet to where the ashtray was, and never got arount to reinstalling the <rice>Ignited starter button</rice>, I had a nice empty hole in the console. Interestingly, it is actually hard to find momentary push-button switches that fit in a 1" hole. Most in that range are about 0.8" or 1.125". So, spent a little more than I wanted but am wholly (hehe) satisfied with what I got, a stainless steel one from Bulgin. In particular, model MP0027/2:
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Switches/Prominent.html

(ordered it from www.mouser.com)

With just a little bit of sanding, it screwed into the hole nicely. And looks awesome!

I am now getting the wiring sorted out. I ran a wire through the passenger-side firewall boot last night. I just need to install the relay, mount the horn, and then bring across a hot and ground line from the battery and I'll be good to go.

Question 2:
Should I be concered about voltage dropoff from the battery at the (looking at the nose) right rear to the intended horn location at the left front? It's about say 8 feet or so. Is 12 gauge wire good enough, or should I go thicker?

Question 3:
Some places recommend connecting the ground to the battery, and some to anywhere on the chassis. Reasons to use either?

(I wanted to have the horn on the left side instead of the right, since the AEM CAI already occupies that location)

juan

I can;t answer your questions but I have the Hella Supertone Horn Kit on another car, heads turn, it frightens peopl

AIM - scirio

Originally posted by scirio
I can;t answer your questions but I have the Hella Supertone Horn Kit on another car, heads turn, it frightens peopl

-marc

Question 1

pin 85 to pin 86= 50-100 ohms of resistance through the coil
pin 30 to pin 87a= .1-.2 ohm of resistance
with pins 85 & 86 energized(12volts)pins 30 to pin 87= .1-.2 ohms of Resistance

hope it helps thats all i got

Dirk

thats great, thanks!

juan

Originally posted by scirio
I can;t answer your questions but I have the Hella Supertone Horn Kit on another car, heads turn, it frightens peopl

1998 Eclipse GS

GS-T Axleback|CAI|OBX 4-1 Header|AF/X UDP|

My horn barely works, I gotta fix it

HAHN Stage 1 \ Greddy Power Extreme 2.5'' Catback

Originally posted by dsmmyth

Originally posted by scirio I can;t answer your questions but I have the Hella Supertone Horn Kit on another car, heads turn, it frightens peopl

Does it sound better? The stock one sounds really annoying and girly.

AIM - scirio

*bump*

scrio get any sound clips? (i know it's a pain to upload audio and junk)

-marc

No I forgot, if I dont do it tomorrow then it'll never get done b/c their on my bros car and hes moving tomorrow. I'll charge my pocket pc tonight and hopefully tomorrow. we'll see.

AIM - scirio