My whole interior is ripped out and I am getting all the panels, dash, and some other stuff fiberglassed and painted as well as the whole car as soon as I do my enclosure that is taking up the whole trunk. I just need some tutorials on how to go about doing the whole trunk enclosure. I've used fiberglass before to make kicker panels and new enclosure for my door panels....but this is a big step up and I would appreciate any help or any links to some good tutorials. Thanks guys...

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

Come on guys someone need to have some info that would benefit me and help me out. tia.

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)

i'm about to be doing the same as you starting as early as tonight, so free bump for you cuz i want some more info too

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99 GS-Turbo 3.55 MTX
S16G @ ~15psi - FMIC - Forged Internals
Clinton Township, MI

Status: Parting Out...

Best tutorials i've come across...

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/
http://www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html

Hope that helps!

--Alpine 7893 Head Unit
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Hit me up on AIM: BlackTalon96

a couple helpful hints:

1) cloth (or woven) fiberglass is stronger than mat glass, but is harder to work with and cant tuck into contours as easily. its usually best to start off w/ a couple layers of mat, remove the piece from the car, and then follow up w/ 3-4 layers of cloth if possible, criss-crossing the "grain" of the cloth with each layer to provide the best stability.

2) in the above step, use braces (or butrices sp?) in every angled part of the glass. they can be thick dowels (which i use) or anything else. this will help not only reduce flex in the enclosure due to the pressure wave from the sub, but will also help when you remove the glass from the car to add more layers. it would suck if you worked hard only to find the piece warped and ill-fitting when you try to re-install it.

3) fleece is wonderful, but is very brittle. use it as a primary "top" layer for ease, but make sure you add some cloth on top of it (and behind it) if you can. just ask anyone who has a fishman installation form a couple years ago, their shit is falling apart.

4) make the enclose out of MDF as much as possible. its just stonger, cheaper, and easier to work with. it weighs more though.

5) ALWAYS put a brace between the top baffle where the subs reside and the lower baffle. it works best if you "implant" a piece of MDF on the bottom fiberglass, and the use that to drill into when installing the braces. otherwise, the first major pothole you run into could cause stress fractures along weak points in the glass due to the mass of the subs.

5) the easiest way to remove fiberglass from your skin is with a sand rub and acetone (might give you cancer though, watch out!). sand by itself worls pretty well though, and if youre sweaty and greasy that only helps!

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:

Thanks guys I really appreciate it...points for both of you. If anyone has anything to add it is greatly appreciated as well...I would love to learn as much as I can about this subject. And I am going to take pictures and make a tutorial of my experience on the do's and don'ts as I learn them myself.

Thanks again guys...I knew I could count on my fellow 2gnters

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- 05 Subaru STi
- 97 eclipse gs (289whp w/ 276tq)