Ok. So I was going to take off the bumper to put mesh in. I took off the bottom screws, the top screws and the poper things in the wheel well and under the opening for the radiator. Then I noticed there were 2 small plates with popers under the headlights that hold the bumper. I got one side off (pain in the ass) but I couldnt get the other side. How do u do it?? If I could get the headlight off it would be easy but the bottom hedlight screw is a bitch to get to. Please Help.


1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS
clear bumper lenses
Ivers Intake
Greddy Exhaust
Neuspeed springs
pics and more mods to come

'97 Eclipse

After i removed my front clip (in dec..) all i have holding it on are nine screws: five across the top, and two on either side (they're under the sidemarker lights). If you're not talking about one of those, rip the fucker off, you don't need it.

______________________________________
-Dino Yancey
I'm so bad, i should be in detention.


Get the Mitsubishi Technical Information manual for the 95-99 Eclipse HERE!
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/dsmmanual.pdf

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I think your talking about the screw that holds the headlight on right. The one on the bottom. If thats what you are talking about just brake the headlight off if you cant get any tools to it. I was able to use a bunch of extenders and elbows along w/ a pneumatic wrench to get mine off. I have heard that most people just end up braking it off. You don't really need that screw anyway. The three top screws are all you really need to hold the headlights on. If you just eliminate the bottom screw it will be less of a headache later on.

No no no, he's talking about the 2 plastic mother F-ers under the headlight, they don't hold the headlight or anything. Dude, you have to cut those bitches off, it took me like 30 mins each side to get them off, I had to reach from the wheel well, the front air dams and the very bottom of the car to get to them.

When you put everything back on DO NOT REPLACE these or any other screws except for the following: the 5 at the top between the headlights, and the 2 on each sides of the wheel wells, like DarkOne did.




Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob STOLEN
GReddy Shoulder Pads STOLEN
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
H&R Sport Springs
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
Sony CDX610 ($400 Headunit) STOLEN
'tis it

Thanx Bro

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS
clear bumper lenses
Ivers Intake
Hiyame Exhaust
Eibach springs
blue interior lights
hyper whites
system
pics and more mods to come

'97 Eclipse

Try pushing it from the bottom with a long screw driver. Mine came right off.

96 RST: Star Performance stag
05 scion xb: bolt ons
92 nissan 240sx
07 toyota sienna

I used a hacksaw blade and cut the part that goes under the headlights off

hold up,, there is no need to hack anything,, u have to take the bumper support off to get the front clip off,, get underneith the car,, there will be 2 hole cut outs,on each side of the car, almost in front of the wheel, but they are up in there, kinda hard 2 reach,,, inside these holes will be 2 14mm bolts (i think thats the size), take those out and that will release the bumper support and your front end will come off provided u removed all the other visible bolts from underneith the bumper, wheel well, etc...,, u then can remove front clip off the bumper support,, these bolts will be the ones that were underneith the headlights that u couldnt get 2,,...todd


-aem cold air intake (painted black)
-hotshot headers
-afx bored tb
-afx ud pulley
-magnecore wires, ngk plugs
-front, rear strut bars
-eibach sportlines
-ingalls camber kit
-b&m short shifter
-tanabe g power catback
-hks ignition
-walboro fuel pump
-autometer guages
-17" black nippon racing evo's
-205/45/17 yok paradas
-N.O.S wet kit 50 shot (4 now)
-N.O.S purge kit
-blitz front end

LAST EDITED ON 23-Jul-01 AT 01:04 PM (PST)

Dude he's not talking about BOLTS!!! He's talking about 2 PLASTIC expanding clips that are under the headlight, the only problem is they are facing DOWN and not up so you can't even get to the release button thing. Looks like this:

______________ bottom of headlight
....x......x.... top of clips
-------------- metal plate
-------------- lip on the bumper cover
...xxx..xxx... part of the clip that is expanded

The single "x" is the part with the release button, you can't get to it because the headlight is in the way, I don't even understand how the hell they got it in there.

Aiiight? Aiiight, case closed.


Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob STOLEN
GReddy Shoulder Pads STOLEN
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
H&R Sport Springs
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
Sony CDX610 ($400 Headunit) STOLEN
'tis it

LAST EDITED ON 23-Jul-01 AT 02:13 PM (PST)

bolts, tabs, clips, whatever the hell u wanna call them,are what is holding the front clip to the bumper support, the RIGHT way to get them off is 2 take the whole bumper supper off (aka the big black solid piece of rubber behind the front clip) when u remove the bumper support u can then remove these "CLIPS" and the front clip will come right off,, then all u have 2 do is slide the bumper support back in and reattach the 4 14mmm bolts, and holy shit, your front clip is off the correct way!


-aem cold air intake (painted black)
-hotshot headers
-afx bored tb
-afx ud pulley
-magnecore wires, ngk plugs
-front, rear strut bars
-eibach sportlines
-ingalls camber kit
-b&m short shifter
-tanabe g power catback
-hks ignition
-walboro fuel pump
-autometer guages
-17" black nippon racing evo's
-205/45/17 yok paradas
-N.O.S wet kit 50 shot (4 now)
-N.O.S purge kit
-blitz front end

i did mine the way todd did his. it's easier to take the front bumper off with the brace.

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com

I have no really neat sayings to post here and too much $h!t done to my car to post either! Just visit my web site.

http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

Maybe my car was different, but the 2 bolts/clips/WTF's under the headlights, CANNOT BE REMOVED WITH A 14mm SOCKET!!!! There are no SIDES on those things and they are FLAT and ROUND, so a 14mm socket is USELESS. Maybe it's just my car.


Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob STOLEN
GReddy Shoulder Pads STOLEN
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
H&R Sport Springs
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
Sony CDX610 ($400 Headunit) STOLEN
'tis it

i think everyone is talking about the same plastic clips, just calling them bolts for lack of better terms i guess. i know it's a bitch to take the headlights off but it's do able. that's how i always get my front bumper off. take the headlights off, the clips underneath them, the wheel well crap, and the bolts in between the headlights under the hood. i don't break the plastic clips and i definitely don't break my headlight supports. i guess do it whatever way you want but it just seems like shortcutting to me. no dispute about it being easier though. good luck!

This is some good advice...I am going to do this saturday when I put my FMIC on.

DAVE_FL
97 T-GS
HRC stage 2 (got my parts just have to install them)

Orlando DSM www.orl.dsm.org

ok...

for my bumper to come off, I only removed the plastic screws in the wheel wells, the four screws inside the top of the ends of the bumper (right in front of the wheel well where the front bumper meets the metal front fenders), the 5 screws on top that are under the front of the hood, and the 4 bolts (14mm) on the bottom of the car.

After those were out, the entire bumper slid out on two runners.

Now in HRC's instructions for the FMIC installation, it states that some models have to remove a bolt or two from under the headlights. To do that, you HAVE to remove the headlight. I am pretty sure that only applies to 95-96 models though.

If you are trying to remove the bumper without the bumper reinforcement, you are going to make things 100 times harder. Just take the entire thing off. But watch out...that reinforcement has shards of fiber glass running through it.

Putting the bumper back on, I only used the 4 in the top of the ends of the bumper, the 4 bolts on the bottom of the runners, and the 5 on top.

-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-01 AT 05:08 AM (PST)

the 14mm bolts i was refering 2 are the 4 bolts that hold the bumper support on the car (aka big black solid rubber thing),, those are the bolts that are located up in the runners that u need the extension to get 2, from underneith the car,they are hard 2 reach but its less time and less destructive than tryin to break the clips off,, sorry 4 the confusion..BTW,, holy shit klipz u got my name right,, no more of this tony name callin????


-aem cold air intake (painted black)
-hotshot headers
-afx bored tb
-afx ud pulley
-magnecore wires, ngk plugs
-front, rear strut bars
-eibach sportlines
-ingalls camber kit
-b&m short shifter
-tanabe g power catback
-hks ignition
-walboro fuel pump
-autometer guages
-17" black nippon racing evo's
-205/45/17 yok paradas
-N.O.S wet kit 50 shot (4 now)
-N.O.S purge kit
-blitz front end

sorry man, i'm not good with names.

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com

I have no really neat sayings to post here and too much $h!t done to my car to post either! Just visit my web site.

http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

I get what you mean. Take the bumper off with the impact bar. I wish I thought I thought of that when I took mine off.