I have a 98 Eclipse RS and I am trying to get factory power windows and locks. Does anybody know where the harness is? Is there a harness on an RS? Any and all info regarding pwr locks and windows is helpful. Thanks!

idk 'bout factory stuff... i just added aftermarket PW/PL. i did the windows myself and the alarm shop did the locks when they put in my alarm. personally i like having aftermarket windows. i put my switches for the windows in the center console instead of the doors so i didnt' need to swap skins or anything. plus this made it really easy when i wired up my windows to my alarm. now my windows can be controlled w/ my alarm remote locks aren't too bad and are pretty cheap. maybe $40 or so for a kit for both doors. windows are a bit more. mine were maybe $200 for a kit w/ switches. i went from power nothin to power everything. hehe even a power trunk. the biggest pain is gonna be running your wires into the door. mounting the motors isn't too bad. SPAL window kits are good. idk what brand my locks are. they don't look hard to install though. if you really wanna go the stock route i think there's a couple on the board that can help you out. idk if you wanna go through the hassle of hunting down skins and everything you'll need...

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

I would prefer to go the factory route. i will check out the spal kits though. where exactly did you put the switches in your center console. anybody else have a comment?

-- oh yeah. i am also interested in removing some weight from the front end of my car. like i said 98 eclipse rs. i heard that there is a black piece that covers over the hole where the intercooler would go on a turbo that weighs a decent about with brackets and all. any info is good. thanks!

i put my switches in where the ashtray was. makes more sense to me to have the window switches there if it's a manual trans. your right hand's over there when you drive anyways. it makes running the wires easier too. if you put in the doors you need to run some wires from the passenger motor all the way to the driver's side door panel. that's far and a lot of crap to get through. with mine there's 2wires from each door going to the center.

that bar you're talking aboout would be the re-enforcement bar. it's pretty heavy. most people drop it when they get a kit b/c it doesn't fit underneath anyways. it's easiest to take it off when removing your bumper anyways (since the bumper's kinda attached w/ inaccesible screws to the rebar)

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

i'm a 98 rs too and want to get an alarm, but see it as pointless w/o auto locks, what's the website for the power lock mechanism kit?

Nos Fogger Kit,AemCAI, TopFuel UDP, pacesetter cat-back, ARD bored 57mm t.b., P&P intake mani, Ractive front/rear strut bars,rear tie bar,eibach sportlines,tokico blues, morosso wires, ngkIX plugs, konig subzeros,proj. heads,gunmetal tails, rev.indiglow gauges,reverse light mod

www.slickcar.com

got my window kit from them. oh, got my power trunk kit from them too.

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

bump. please help!!

well i added keyless entry, not full power locks, cuz it dosent have a lock/unlock button inside, and iv done the spal power windows install. ill have to agree, running the wires through the lil boot that goes from door to main car is the hardest part. here is where i mounted my switches, i think it looks pretty damn nice. the instructions are good, some electrical knowledge is necessary.

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

anyone else used the spal kit? if so where did you put the switches? pics are good. thanks! *bump*

EDIT--how did you run your wiring? where did you run it? about how much did your kit cost? am i entirely off by wanting to do it factory? all the responses have been about spal so far. (no anger though, i love the help!)

I have the SPAL kit. Installing the motors was really easy. I haven't mounted the switches yet but I'm going to put them in the ashtray.

how are the pw window motors? are they smooth and quiet? also the pwr locks.. when the actuators locks and unlocks.. does it make a big noise? (have had bad noise experience with my old car)

Good Luck
______________________________________

nice tip fellas..

so the kit is $140.00 on spal's site.. do you need 2 of these kits? the site didn't make that clear (or if it did, i didn't see it..)...

also, which switches did you guys get? illuminated? 2 switch.. 3 switch...?

thanks fro repliles...

I think if you put 2 switches in the middle then it would be enough.. cuz then both the driver and passenger could access it

but

if you wanna put it on the door pannels.. then you'd wanna get 3 switches.. 2 for you.. 1 for passenger side..

riiite??

Good Luck
______________________________________

ahh.. slick grasshooppa! that would make sense...

but do you need 2 of these power kits or just the one?

1 kit includes everything for 2 windows.

Good Luck
______________________________________

how about wiring though. did you run it under the carpet or under the dash or am i completly off and you ran it somewhere else? TIA

About the SPAL kits, do you still have the crank handles or does it come with something to cover the hole. Just curious, it would look waaay better with a cover.

--Alpine 7893 Head Unit
--2 Alpine MRD-M500s
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Hit me up on AIM: BlackTalon96

you hafta run the wires into the doors. i ran my wires up throught the center console (from the ashtray) and then off the either side under the dash. the boot connected to the door is up under the dash anyways.

also, the kits do come with some black plastic caps to fit over that that rim that'll be left after you take off the crank handle. i jsut left mine like that. i personally like being able to see the remaining part of the crank spinning by itself in the door. if your passenger's not paying attention and has their leg up against the door just right you can scare them when it rubs their leg too.

as far as noise i'm not sure how the kits compare with factory, but they're not that loud. the loudest noise they make is the cracking noise when the windows come down from being fully up. but my windows did that from before even with the cranks (a couple others said theirs make the same noise). it has something to do with the windows sort've locking in the fully up position if you have manual windows. if you put in some dampening in the door the noise from the motors will prolly quiet down. it'll seem loud when you've got the skins and the plastic sheet off but it's a lot quieter with everything back together. with that in mind some dynamat or something would prolly make a noticable difference. not that our interiors are that quiet to begin with...

SPAL kits are good quality and slickcar.com didn't give me any problems when i ordered my windows and trunk kit from them. got here pretty fast too. i'm really not sure about going the factory route. i think you'd still need a spal window kit, but then you'd hafta buy doors skins and figure out the factory wiring and everything too. i'm not sure if factory windows use relays or not. plus i'm not sure how the crank fits under factory skins made for power windows... isn't the actual window mechanism different? don't most factory power windows have a track type system? idk about our cars...

oh yea, i bought the illuminated push/pull switches. i just got two b/c i have them in the center. it's kinda cool having power everything (well no mirrors) and not really having any switches on the door. it's funny when i've got someone in the car and they start groping along the door to find a window switch. i just wanna say again that if you're stick, switches in the center just makes more sense. otherwise you gotta switch hands on the wheel to operate the window. oh yea i put a play switch for my siren in the ashtray too

*edit*
hey 96eclipse! glad to see the install came out good and the switch fit well and everything. the ones i got definately wouldn't have fit the way you wanted them too. looks real clean! i should prolly do something fill up the space around my switches in the ash tray... power window kick ass, ya?

oh yea when you get power windows, you can hook them up to your alarm and control them by remote like me!

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

yea i was very happy with them and they fit so perfectly there. i know what ya mean about people lookin around for the crank or on the door for the switches. they motors are a lil louder than stock ones...but who the hell cares as long as you dont have to crank the handle to get the windows down haha! you need 3 switches if you mounting in the door, only 2 if in the center console. i like them in the center...its different. ya know we ought to do a writeup on installing these bad boys.

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I put in aftermarket power locks when I installed my alarm since the factory locks' actuators I had were shot.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

yeah do a writetup!!

what tools do you need? i know you need a drill..

how long did it take to do the whole thing?

how did you run the wires to the console? under the seat or behind the dash down to where the switches are?

anybody in gaithersburg md wanna help me?

Did you guys get the Deluxe kit or just the normal power window kit?

-----------------
1997 Eagle Talon ESi
Check out more pictures here: http://mikelaidlaw.tripod.com



MODS
-----
Blitz Front Bumper - Invader Type 1 Side Skirts - 17" Gunmetal Motegi MR7's - Final Drive Gear Mod - H&R Lowering Springs - 97 Eclipse Headlights - Taillight Mods - Interior Colouring/Lighting/Accessories - Stereo - Intake Filter, Plugs and Wires

mcubed got the delux, i got the reg. difference is his has a clutch of some sort, and a lil tool that if his ever get stuck he can use it to turn the crank and get his window back up. his is a lil quiter. hell, wished i still had my dads digi cam...id do a writeup

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

lol i got no cam either... haha the two guys on the thread that actually have everything done and no cam between the two.

you don't need a drill for the install. takes maybe an hour or two depending how long it takes to run wires. the second door will be faster once you've figured out how you want to mount everything inside. the mounting system's pretty good. it's these bars w/ lotsa holes in them. you just find a couple points to mount them at and attach it to the motor. i used two bars for the motor and one on the crank itself. you'll see when you get the kit. idk why you'd wanna run wires under the seat. the wires will be coming into the car from up under the dash. that's where it connect to the door. there's not reason they'd even have to go anywhere near the seats. mine go under the dash then through the center console past the shifter to the ashtray. (all inside the dash).

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

I don't have a digital camera either , but if I can get a hold of my sisters I'll do a writeup.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

you guys are doing a good job so far of explaining...

so as for electrical.. where did you guys hook up the power? is everything in series? (the motor wires > switch > power?)

a couple of hours is not bad for the install...

i for one appreciate all the info...

If i bought that 40 dollar kit from slik car that comes w/acuators and hardware, does that mean it doesn't come with switches? I don't get it, is taht kit only designed to be used with keyless entry? like w/an alarm?

Nos Fogger Kit,AemCAI, TopFuel UDP, pacesetter cat-back, ARD bored 57mm t.b., P&P intake mani, Ractive front/rear strut bars,rear tie bar,eibach sportlines,tokico blues, morosso wires, ngkIX plugs, konig subzeros,proj. heads,gunmetal tails, rev.indiglow gauges,reverse light mod

>If i bought that 40 dollar kit from slik car that comes
>w/acuators and hardware, does that mean it doesn't come with
>switches? I don't get it, is taht kit only designed to be used
>with keyless entry? like w/an alarm?

yup pretty much. i think most people add locks when they add an alarm or something for keyless entry. i guess there's not a lot of interest in just adding power locks w/o keyless. of course if you find your own switches it's not that difficult to wire. you'll just need two relays (one for lock, one for unlock). it's even possible to use like a single push button momentary switch and have it simply alternate between lock and unlock. you either need a specific type of latching relay for that or you can wire up about 5-6 SPDT relays to essentially work as a latching relay. if you really wanna do this and understand relays quite well, i'll give more info.

>you guys are doing a good job so far of explaining...
>so as for electrical.. where did you guys hook up the power? is >everything in series? (the motor wires > switch > power?)
>a couple of hours is not bad for the install...
>i for one appreciate all the info...

if you get a switch kit wiring is very simple. the motor leads plug into the switch harness. the switch harness then simply gets connected to a +12v source, ground, and if your switches are illuminated - the parking light wire. the cool thing about this is you can wire it to a constant +12v rather than an acc. triggered one as in most cars. essentially you get to use your windows whenever. no need to put in the key. you'd be surprise how many people ask me how i got my windows to go without the key. i guess a lot of people don't like that feature on most cars... doesn't make much sense to me except for preventing someone from lowering your windows and breaking in if you happened to leave them partially open...

so lets see - after adding power windows to a car that came without, you have the convenience of having 2 switches in the center console where it makes more sense for driving AND you can operate your windows anytime AND it makes hooking up your windows to a remote system very straight forward as you know exactly where which wires are. i'm happy with mine. i prolly wouldn't have been able to do as much if my car came with stock power windows. i have remote windows!!! oh and i did it myself to so it's NOT one-touch. i like it better like that. idk i really get a kick when it's a hot day and people see my car disarm and the windows roll down by itself as i walk over to it. it's gonna be cool once i do lights and radio an stuff by remote....

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

very nice. i have a viper remote but its a 2 button not four.. would it take you too long to give me the basics of using the alarm with the windows?

also, what 12v sourse did you hook up to the switches? did you do it in the panel under the dash or in the ebngine bay fuse block?

again, thanks for any info!!

>very nice. i have a viper remote but its a 2 button not
>four.. would it take you too long to give me the basics of
>using the alarm with the windows?

k basically the main difference with what i did is that i have BOTH directions on my windows. this makes it much more complicated. most shops will tell you that you can only have one direction per channel - one button up, one button down. what you do is use a latching relay hooked up to a SPDT (or if you can find a DPDT latching relay w/ a single coil that does not require alternating current, you're all set). basically the latching relay alternated between sending a +12v signal and no signal everytime the button is pressed. this is what lets you alternate between up and down. this signal is hooked up to the coil of the SPDT relay and the other lead from the coil is hooked to constant ground. your alarm output is hooked to the common. 87 is hooked to your 'down' relays and 87a is hooked to your 'up' relays. with the alternating signal, when the latching relays sends a +12v signal to the SPDT relay, your alarm output will be directed to the down relays. the next time the signal will be directed to your up relays.

that's the tricky part. if you understood that, you shouldn't need an explanation of how to hook up the 'up' and 'down' relays to the motor leads (note: you will need 4 power SPDT relays - one per direction per window). the wiring is basically the same as aftermarket doorlocks with the exception that you want to isolate the two windows so your manual switched will still allow the windows to be operated independantly while the alarm operates them in unison.

> also, what 12v sourse did you hook up to the switches? did
>you do it in the panel under the dash or in the ebngine bay
>fuse block?

i just tapped into that fat white wire by the ignition. it should be fine for handling your current needs. under normal operation the motors on the deluxe kit draw about 3amps each. when they reach the end of the track (fully up or fully down) the current spikes to about 14 amps per motor.

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

yes thank you for the explanation.. your post made sense and i will keep this in mind. that soudns like a lot of runing wires though.. but maybe on a lazy day...

so all you need are the relays and extra wire and there are hookups already on the alarm brain for this or do we tap into already existing connections?

and if i get a double throw as opposed to a single throw relay there would be no need for the 2 relays per door? just one per door?

thanks for the great info!!!!!!

>yes thank you for the explanation.. your post made sense and
>i will keep this in mind. that soudns like a lot of runing
>wires though.. but maybe on a lazy day...

check www.the12volt.com for some nice diagrams and explanations of what you can do with relays. under their special apps. relays page look at that latching relay diagram. that's what you'll want to use. i used that 5 relay setup with an addiational SPDT relay to split the signal. if you can read those diagrams you're all set.

>so all you need are the relays and extra wire and there are
>hookups already on the alarm brain for this or do we tap into
>already existing connections?

you basically need to hook up to the output from your alarm, and each of the the four motor leads to your windows. oh and a constant +12v and ground for powering relays an stuff..

>and if i get a double throw as opposed to a single throw relay
>there would be no need for the 2 relays per door? just one per
>door?

nope. umm you could use two DPDT relays instead (one for up one for down) but it's hard to find DPDT power relays at a reasonable price. you can get SPDT boshc type relays for a $1 at www.partsexpress.com. can't beat that.

>thanks for the great info!!!!!!

no problem! does anyone know how the stock windows are setup? this makes a big difference. are there any relays on the stock windows or do the switches themselves send power direct to the motor leads. SPAL kits don't use relays so that's why i had to insert my 4 SPDT power relays into the motor leads. if the stock windows use relays it may simply be a matter of sending the signal from the latching setup to the relays which control the windows. if the relays are in the cabin wiring will be even easier. i have no clue on stock setup as i went from power nothing to power everything (well no mirrors but i wouldn't use that anyways).

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

great site. thasnks for the info on 12volt.com...


ok.. ONE laet question... comsmetic...


where did you run your relays?

>great site. thasnks for the info on 12volt.com...

ya n/p that site's helped me out a whole lot. the moderator on there really knows his stuff too (his alias is the12volt)

>ok.. ONE laet question... comsmetic...
>where did you run your relays?

k the 6 relays i used for alternating the signal are up under my dash on the left. right next to the alarm relays they installed. (lock relays and the horn honk/flasher relays). that ways it's close to the alarm brain. plus the ones i used were pretty small. i just electrical taped them all together into one block of relays.

the power relays (4) i put inside the center console a little forward past the shifter mechanism. there' some space under there. my switches are in the ash tray so the motor leads were already routed through the center console past the shifter. it made it easy to splice the relays into the leads that way. so the ouput from the alarm goes to the relays in the dash. from there it's split into two (-) outputs. one goes to the 'up' relays the other goes to the 'down' relays.

haha you should see my underdash wiring. it's a mess of spaghetti. there's all my window stuff, my interior lighting and switches, my power trunk release, and my siren play switch. if someone broke in they wouldn't know wtf they're looking at. a lot of it i can't help b/c i mounted a lot of switch on the underdash panel as well as the controls for my lighting/music interface and the indiglo controls...

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short

yeah, when i mounted my short shifter (hurricane G!! ) and the shifter bushings, i did see a lot of space in there... does any local stores (advance, pep boys, etc.) carry these relays or do i have to get them online?

so since i have a viper alarm 2 button remote, wouldn't i have to get the second button (which is not used) programmed to trigger the relays or will it trigger anyway once you have the Windows hooked up to the outputs?

also, what kind of siren do you have? I have a Federal siren (just like the kind on firetrucks) thats hooked up to the alarm...

also i sent you a email about something off topic...

>yeah, when i mounted my short shifter (hurricane G!!
> ) and the shifter bushings, i did see a lot of space
>in there... does any local stores (advance, pep boys, etc.)
>carry these relays or do i have to get them online?

i haven't seen any around here locally that could even come close to the prices online... i don't like radioshack very much. only shop there when i need something immediately.

>so since i have a viper alarm 2 button remote, wouldn't i have
>to get the second button (which is not used) programmed to
>trigger the relays or will it trigger anyway once you have the
>Windows hooked up to the outputs?

umm the extra channel is probably pre-programed with that button. might wanna check though. just hold the button and use a multimeter to check whether it's sending a signal. if it's a - signal, connect one lead to a +12v source and the other to the alarm output. you should read 12-14v when you press the button.

if it's something you need to program check the viper website www.viper.com under the guides section. download the installation manual (not the user one that the alarm guys give you to take home). i'm so glad i found that. i did all my own reprogramming instead of having to ask the shop to change stuff.

>also, what kind of siren do you have? I have a Federal siren
>(just like the kind on firetrucks) thats hooked up to the
>alarm...

mine's is the revenger 6tone that comes standard with the newer vipers. i programmed mine so it only uses tones 1 and 5 i think. i like those two. makes it easy to identify my car. i think i'll add more sirens and pain generators later. i think a car w/ two diff. sirens going off should be fairly easy to identify...

>also i sent you a email about something off topic...

ya got it. you've got mail!

-marc

='95 RS 5spd Red=
Matrix CAI
A'pexi Turbo N1
Hanabi 8000k HID
SPAL Deluxe Power Windows
Nakayama GT5 17's
GSX Calipers
AEM Rotors

255 is fricken short