I'm looking to paint my car but I have a really odd rust colored eclipse (copper?) I was wondering about the best way to paint this car. I was thinking about going to black possibly. If i desided to go to black or keep the same color whats the best procedure...

What type of sand paper do i sand with?

How do i fix dents (Where to i get that bonding stuff or whatever)

How would i fix the stock spoiler holes..

and just painting it in general...what tools are needed and is it better to buy paint by a gallon or just use lots of spray paint cans or whatever...i'm guessing going slow is the key..i'm anxiously waiting to start this...

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Another BANNED asshole.

I have already pritty much answered these questions in post "how much to install a kit" but I copyed and pasted for yah....

"You could do that or your you could do this...
For the spoiler take some grease and put it on the bolts for mounting insert them through the spoiler then set that thing on your trunk BAM you now know where to drill....find a good close sized drill bit and drill them out... now for the old holes take a piece of aluminum (even a cut piece of coke can works) flatten it out and go to your hardware store youll need these things...
Bondo and a tube of hardener
Primer your color car paint and clear coat all in spray paint cans
JB Weld Liquid Steel

Now sand a good 2 inch patch around each hole and clean it really well, JB weld the pieces of aluminum you have found to the bottom side of the old holes for your old spoiler (not on the outside of the car on the inside) and wait on that to dry (overnight) once its dry make sure the aluminum is properly welded up if you see any unwelded pieces mix some more JB and fix them. Now mix some bondo not very much hardener at all about a teaspoon of bondo only needs a little squirt of hardener, be quick because that shit drys fast and patch the top of the holes where the spoiler was (this time bondo on outside of car)wait an hour or two for that stuff to harden good... Now sand it smooth and even with the car and clean it off. Patch off the spot to paint with some masking tape and cloths and prime the entire area only one coat. Wait 3 hours or so for it to dry and then paint the main color on 3 coats 30min drying time between coats and then wait 3 hours for it to dry. Now take a good clean coth and buff the ever living shit outa the paint you painted on till its shinny as crap. Now coat it 2 times 30min between coats with the clear coat and after 3 hours rebuff. It will look like a pro did it if you dont messs up if you do its a learning exp and not that hard to fix. Now for the body kit same painting proceedure applies but make sure you fit the kit well if its fiberglass then just bondo the small cracks etc if its urethane then you have nothing to sweat over.

BAM! you just mounted your own wing and kit! ...remember when you paint do it slowly and dont EVER stop moving your hand use small sweeps of spraying and only coat thin dont glob it on or it will run. Keep your hand about 6" to 8" from the item your painting...This is a trial and error deal the first time you paint something but just stick to these tips youll do better than you think and by the way use Dupli Color Spraypaint it is very strong and it's a high quality paint. It won't chip and it will match your paint color better than cheaper paints.

I have done my own and countless of my friends body kits and wings and even some custom fiberglass molding with spraypaint (just take your time).

You can get this done for about $50 in supplys and a good 3-4 days worth of hard work."

If your diong your entire car id say more like $100 in supplies but was just for this guys body kit etc. When you sand use a good thick grain (not chunky and rocky though a smooth grain or it will cause too deep of scratches) for the original paint removal and I would say use some paint thinner or remover or itll take forever. Also once you have got all the paint off and masked everything clean the surface very well and if you want a show quality shine all you need to do is once youve main coated it take some really fine grain sandpaper (soft) and a water hose and wet sand the entire paintjob then once you clearcoat do the same. But instead of only waiting 3 hours your gonna wan't it to set really well so wait a good 6-7 hours and then wet sand your main coat, then clear coat and wet sand that coat too.

Your not trying to remove paint when you wet sand only buff or shine it up so use a VERY VERY SOFT sandpaper (almost like a ruff cloth) and make sure you keep water running. Also after you are completely done id suggest waiting a good 2-3 days before you drive your car so the paint can set in really well or the first rock that hits your paint will leave a massive chip.

As for dents you can pickup bondo at your local Lowes or Home Depot etc... just ask a worker and he will show you. What you do is after their is no paint and youve sanded down to metal check for dents and fill them after the bondo hardens sand the area to make it even with the metal. If you have a small quarter sized dent with no creases take an acytaline torch and heat the spot up to a good 1000 degrees then press a block of dry ice against it and it will pop right out as if it was never dented. Otherwise bondo over it and don't mix the bondo in large amounts because it drys faster then you can walk around your car lol.


The car you see below in my signature was done this way with $5 a can Dupli Color Spray paint and a good week to work.

198hp @6350 rpm NA 420A (Thanks to new JE forged 9.5:1 Deep Dishers ready for Zex Nitrous 150 Shot) -THIS IS NOT MY CAR ITS A FRIENDS!

umm I am just going to put it this way you put 50-100 bucks into a paint job its going to look like it. Most decent paint jobs will be about 7-1000 and show worthy jobs are about 2k and up. filling holes with JB weld and coke cans will crack over time also. Basicaly as body work goes what you pay for is what you get.

Slacker Motorsports
Some stuff......

Correctly molded JB weld can line a crack in a 1000hp engine block and I have driven around my coke canned and JBed car for over 2 years now not a single crack. As for show quality paint...Show quality is what you put into it the paint a body shop uses is about $200 a pint if yo where to spray paint until you filled a jug with a pint of paint it would cost well over $200... Bassically what I am saying the paint in a good producers can like Dupli Color is the same quality paint as is used in paint shops the ONLY reason it looks better is due to the fact they are using air brushes and air guns to paint witch mist the paint much much finer. Thats why I say stay back when painting with spraypaint. Take a look at the car in my signature Candy Red full 3 coat main 2 clear I did that with "spray" cans and that car has already taken 2 trophys. I am pritty sure it would be considered a show worthy vehicle but none of the judges have to know I hand painted it with some Dupli Color. The reason what a shop paints and what you might paint looks different is because you don't take the time to buff it the only time paint really matters is in stuff like Ferrari "bullet proof paint" that stuff is only any better than Dupli Color because even if you hit a curb at 80mph your bumper might colapse but the paint will not come off of it. If your willing to pay $3000 a pint for some Ferrari grade paint then its all you but if your paying $2000 for a paint job your not getting any better quality paint then what comes outa that can. Your just getting $100 in paint and $1900 worth of work and equipment use. I have worked for three different body shops here in Mississippi and I can promise you unless your paying out your ass for paint car grade enamal is car grade enamal as for the difference between a $1000 and a $2000 job the only one is did the guy painting take the time to get engine bay and door jams? Did he mask everything just right and did he buff the car for a good 2 hours? Your not getting better paint your getting better labor.

198hp @6350 rpm NA 420A (Thanks to new JE forged 9.5:1 Deep Dishers ready for Zex Nitrous 150 Shot) -THIS IS NOT MY CAR ITS A FRIENDS!

Ummm I dunno if JB weld really works, but to be honest, I don't know any real shop that uses that. You have to weld sheet metal using real welds imo. That sounds like a "mickey-mouse" kind of way of doing it, kinda like how some shops use fiberglass to cover those holes instead of welding metal. If it works for you that's great, but I wouldn't recommend that method personally...

And as far as your theory on paint material costs...how much did you spend on spray paint cans? And you said those are enamel paints? Only maaco uses enamel paint as far as I know. Real multi-stage paint is a lot different, and PPG paint material costs around 500 total to paint a car. That's just materials only. The labor is a lot since you have to sand the inside and outside of the car. If you can do all that labor yourself, then a real, true factory quality or show quality paint job will just cost you around 500 in materials, and paying someone for a few hours of labor to spray it.

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2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

No no no you guys are all misunderstanding me... Dupli Color makes a high quality paint (not your average household spraypaint) at $24 a can it is their "exterior automotive series" I am not talking about your average maacco or however you spell it paint. Oh and by the way I forgot to mention you need the "sandable" primer not the normal kind. I can understand how if you used $3 spraypaint cans to paint your car it would chip etc... This is a high gloss enamal chip free paint. Sorry for the misunderstanding in the original post I mentioned their automotive exterior line of paint and I must have cut it out this time... Anyway yes a total meterial cost is about $500 but a single color (like white) paint for a car is about $100 to do a full car. So in all actuallity youd use about $50 primer $100 main coat and $75-100 clear coating... But you still save big diong work yourself and if you know how to paint you can use the Dupli paint and only spend about $100 on all the paint, it is a high quality paint and stands up to daily abuse very well.

198hp @6350 rpm NA 420A (Thanks to new JE forged 9.5:1 Deep Dishers ready for Zex Nitrous 150 Shot) -THIS IS NOT MY CAR ITS A FRIENDS!

>No no no you guys are all misunderstanding me... Dupli Color
>makes a high quality paint (not your average household
>spraypaint) at $24 a can it is their "exterior automotive
>series" I am not talking about your average maacco or
>however you spell it paint. Oh and by the way I forgot to
>mention you need the "sandable" primer not the normal kind.
>I can understand how if you used $3 spraypaint cans to paint
>your car it would chip etc... This is a high gloss enamal
>chip free paint. Sorry for the misunderstanding in the
>original post I mentioned their automotive exterior line of
>paint and I must have cut it out this time... Anyway yes a
>total meterial cost is about $500 but a single color (like
>white) paint for a car is about $100 to do a full car. So in
>all actuallity youd use about $50 primer $100 main coat and
>$75-100 clear coating... But you still save big diong work
>yourself and if you know how to paint you can use the Dupli
>paint and only spend about $100 on all the paint, it is a
>high quality paint and stands up to daily abuse very well.


where can i find this spraypaint? ..online / offline?...

thanks..

your car looks great btw ..i love the paint job..you did it this way right?

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Another BANNED asshole.

Professional Paint jobs do not use sandable primer. In fact if you do your own body work and take it to a shop to have painted, they'll strip all the primer off and use nonsandable spray primer. Sandable primer should only be used to insure smooth body lines and check bondo work. It should be almost completely removed before a professional paint job. Obvioulsy it won't be all gone, as it's used to smooth slight imperfections.

Even the best of spray can paints can not match the quality of using a gun in a sealed, temperature controlled environment. The process invloved with high end paintjobs like House of Kolor paints is exact and with 3 - 4 coats of paint and 5 - 6 coats of clear (done correctly) you will have a paint job which is so deep you can see your car in the refelection of your eye.

There is no substitute for a show car finish which can only be accomplished by spending $3000 - $8000. You can definitely accomplish a paint job yourself and have it look "good" but it won't hold up at a car show. At least not a major one. But if your not interested in shows, how many people you see on the road know what a truely great paint job looks like?

Anyway, kind of long but that's my opinion. Also as for the grits of sand paper, use 60 - 80 for roughing and/or stripping paint, after using sandable primer, I like to use 220. Oh get yourself a sanding block too so you don't put finger grooves in the body. After it's dry sanded, grab the hose and wet sand with 300 - 600 grit. Then let it COMPLETELY dry before painting.

Good luck with whatever you choose!

I am not talking about your average maacco or
>however you spell it paint.

not sure about the closest maaco to you but the one by me uses dupont. Do you have some close pics of you car? I don't understand how you can get a quallity look with spray can.

If you know what your doing you can do all the body work and sanding yourself but do not spray it yourself period. I will be doing everything on my car except the actual spraying of the color and clear. As long as I get the guy I want to spray my car to actualy do it I will be doing all the work after its sprayed too like the wet sanding and buffing with alittle help from him, but even though I will do every other thing to this car myself there is no way in hell I would spray it myself. The paint job will make your car look great or down rigth crappy depending on the job. And RSconversion lets see up close pics of the car and why does it look like the rear bumper is a diffrent shade then the rest of the car?

Slacker Motorsports
Some stuff......

if you listen to this guy your car will look like SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This guy is an oxymoron and doesn't know jackshit about body work.... if you want to pay a lot of money for a real shop to fix this fuckup then i would go the way he says. If you want to do it right the first time take it to the professional.....

2006 WW IX MR
2003 BBY EVO VIII (sold)
256.9WHP & 277.9torque
http://s90395832.onlinehome.us/forum//index.php?sid=a70942a7f65043e6c873e12dcd300692

1998 Eclipse RS --show car--

>No no no you guys are all misunderstanding me... Dupli Color
>makes a high quality paint (not your average household
>spraypaint) at $24 a can it is their "exterior automotive
>series" I am not talking about your average maacco or
>however you spell it paint. Oh and by the way I forgot to
>mention you need the "sandable" primer not the normal kind.
>I can understand how if you used $3 spraypaint cans to paint
>your car it would chip etc... This is a high gloss enamal
>chip free paint. Sorry for the misunderstanding in the
>original post I mentioned their automotive exterior line of
>paint and I must have cut it out this time... Anyway yes a
>total meterial cost is about $500 but a single color (like
>white) paint for a car is about $100 to do a full car. So in
>all actuallity youd use about $50 primer $100 main coat and
>$75-100 clear coating... But you still save big diong work
>yourself and if you know how to paint you can use the Dupli
>paint and only spend about $100 on all the paint, it is a
>high quality paint and stands up to daily abuse very well.

I KNOW BODY WORK PRETTY WELL, IVE DONE A FAIR SHARE OF IT,, IM GONNA HAVE TO VOUCH FOR THIS GUY, HIS IDEA WILL HOLD UP, BUT IF YOU GOT MAJOR KNOCK IN NTHE TRUNK, IT WILL FALL OUT OR CRACK. AS FOR THE SPRAY PAINT, THATS BELEIVABLE, BECAUSE FROM THE LOOKS OF IT, HIS SS AND BACK BUMPER DONT MATCH HIS PAINT ON HIS CAR. AND IT DOES LOOK LIKE IT HASNT BEEN SPRAYED OUT OF A PRESSURE MAINTAIN GUN. JUST MY .02

HRC SUPER 16G FOR SALE BRAND NEW,, 800 USD
Dwayne H
A.K.A D-low
"PAID THE COST TO BE THE BOSS"

Fully built motor,Hrc stage 3, 19 inch rollers, Big Brakes, Targa top conversion, custom hood,supra taillights, trd wing with cf, kaminari widebody kit, air ride, autometer guages and all of Apexi Sacf, avc-r, rev/speed meter. interior fully glassed, tenzo r seats, pics soon to come!

JB Weld......Coke cans......Krylon.......Bondo...You have got to be fucking kidding me.Slit your wrists buddy.


Oh and one more thing.....you spend $1000 plus on AEM stand alone and supposedly get 187whp NA, then you do Alabama style body work on your car? Doesn't add up to me.You probably don't even have an Eclipse...probably a Firebird or El Camino or something.Do us all a favor and stop talking out of your ass.

Green 95 GS 5-speed
Engine--PCP cold air intake,Greddy header,Accel 8mm wires,OBX custom exhuast.

Suspension/Brakes--Sprint 2' springs, KYB Gr2's, EBC Red Stuff pads,17" Konig Traffiks (silver), 215/45/17 Yokohama AVS ES100's, 15 dollar camber kit.

>Oh and one more thing.....you spend $1000 plus on AEM stand
>alone and supposedly get 187whp NA, then you do Alabama
>style body work on your car?

HAHAHHAHAHA OMG that's so funny...maybe I'm really tired...let's keep it civil in here though. All I can say is I wouldn't do any of those things to my car, even if it was a POS civic. A professional paint gun can apply paint much smoother than a spray paint can, and you also need a paint room that has filters to keep dust off the car for hours after you paint it.

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2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl