I'm thinking of getting a auto shifter knob. Today I tried removing the stock assembly one just so I'm ready when I actually get it. I took off the three screws I could see but When I try to pull it off, there is a somewhat thick black wire that I dont know how to take off. I believe it looks like the wire that controls the pushdown botton on the top of the stock shifter. Any auto guys know how to disconnect it?

Also, if the shifter doesn't come with a OD button, I heard you can rewire it and relocate it. Do you think I could get a switch/button from radioshack? If so, which one? And where could I mount it? Maybe you guys can give me a convinient location or some good easy-to-do ideas. If anyone has pictures of this please post.

Sorry for the LONG post. Thanks in advance.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

i don't remmeber how i took it off i took mine off like when bought the car five years ago I just used the same swtich and moved it else where I'm sure u could use another switch not sure what kind we have 3 wires i think.

I'll look at mine and see if a help u i'll take some pics if i can remember ,

Jay

--- Pics ---
https://420a.shutterfly.com/

I think Nopi sells shift knobs with the O/D button on them. If not, I know somebody online sells them, so you don't have to relocate them.


Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom (home made!) ram air conversion
OBX fog lights
RSR rear section straight outta Japan
JVC cd player
Kenwood components
Sony XM-250 amp
10" Polk DX sub

"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
jalapenos.
What you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow."

Can you hook me up with the guy you know. I would like to now if he has a site or possibly some pictures of what he sells so I can choose a model I like. Thanks in advance.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

like this? you can use O/D

check this website..

http://www.mach3accessories.com/shiftknobs.html

I think that is not good price...

---------------------------------

DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE!!

Yeah but those are rediculous prices. I'd rather relocate the OD button. Any places that are cheaper. Any help appreciated.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

that "wire" you're talking about is just some wrapping to hold 3 wires together. There's a red, yellow, and black wire. You could get a switch from radio shack (one with two prongs) and hook up the red and the yellow wire to it. When the switch is turned on, the OD will turn off. When the switch is down, OD will be on (like normal driving).

That's a normal price for the shifters with the O/D button, it's an added feature I don't think it's a bad price since most manual shifters are like $50 to $80 or more!
Thanks for the link autopeak, and sweet azz ride!


Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom (home made!) ram air conversion
OBX fog lights
RSR rear section straight outta Japan
JVC cd player
Kenwood components
Sony XM-250 amp
10" Polk DX sub


Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom (home made!) ram air conversion
OBX fog lights
RSR rear section straight outta Japan
JVC cd player
Kenwood components
Sony XM-250 amp
10" Polk DX sub

"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
jalapenos.
What you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow."

you might want to check this out
www.spwusa.com/Products.asp?UID=6441 and just relocate the od button

The 2GNT is Gone... and the curse too!!

I need help on removing the stock shifter. I took out the three visible screws. I can see what I believe is the overdrive button assembly (which is white). It seems like the wires are all connected to it and that is the only thing I think that is not allowing me to slide the shifter off. How can I separate the white assembly so I can relocat ethe overdrive button someplace else? I dont want to yank it out and break it. If there is a write up or some pictures you guys can show me that shows how to reconnect the wires to the new shifter. I just want to know what I'm doing. Thanks.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

Lets see if I can explain this. The black button that you actually push in to turn the overdrive on/off is just a cover. Very carefully (as to not scratch it) take some pliers and pull the black button off. Once that is off push in where the black button was and you should be able to pull out the white piece inside. I hope this helps I SUCK at explaining things. Any more ?'s just ask. Later

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

I tried to take the black button off like you said but i couldn't manage to get it off. I'll try tomorrow morning when there's light out.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

Try to take a small screw driver or something of the sort and stick it behind the black button and try to pry it off. It will come off, trust me I have taken it off SEVERAL times going back and forth from my RAZO shift knob to my stock shift knob. Any more ?'s just ask. Later

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

that's all you have to do??? i cut my overdrive wires so i could get it off.. i also tried prying the overdrive button out (the whole button, the white part).. and now it won't stay in place.. its a bitch to hook up the wires again too..

Anyone have pics of their OD button moved?

97 RS- Runs, but never driven
2000 Subaru Outback- Daily Driver

Thats all I had to do! Just manipulate the black cover off of the switch. After that you are able to push the button in far enough that you can just pull the white piece out. I don't have any pics but it shouldn't be that hard.

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

Hey

I got the black OD button cover off like you said. I removed the White part. I then took the lid off the white OD assembly and when I try to put it back, OD won't stay in place. It no longer clicks in and out of OD. I was thinking of putting my OD button in the dash or elsewhere. I found this page:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/45.shtml

Do you think if I bought this switch from Radioshack I can hook up the red and yellow wires to each of the clips on the back of the button and have it work? If so, would I just leave the black wire alone? It looks liek it would work.

I NEED a quick reply. Thanks.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

I would think that button would work. Just add however much wire you need to get it to where you want to locate it at. And when you hook it up you will need to use the Red, and Black wire. The yellow is for the light on your guage cluster that tells you if OD is on/off. You won't have that light anymore. Which I don't mind.

And about your switch not working, I know what you mean. There is a small spring in there if you don't set it perfect it wont work. Any other questions let me know.

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

I got a switch from Radioshack but I don't know which metal connector to attach each wire to. I got an illuminated one (I probably won't bother running a wire for it to light up) Adn there are three connectors:

left: labeled ground
center: labeled load
right: labeled power (which is obviously the wire needed to light it)

Which color wire goes to which connector? The package says to not mess them up because incorrect connection could mess up the electrical system. I just want to be sure.

If I had a place to upload a picture to I could post a pic. Hopefully you understand what I mean.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

Well ground is going to be the black wire. So connect the black wire to the prong labeled ground. Then the Red wire will go to one of the other prongs. I am not 100% sure which prong to put the red wire on. I would just say try both (hook one up, go drive around and see if your o/d works, if it does cool, if not, try the other prong and then see if it works then). The wires are fused so if anything happes it will blow a 10amp fuse instead of frying something else. FYI - If you hook up the switch and turn the car on and your SRS light (on the left of the dash cluster) doesn't turn off, check your "Backup Lights" fuse under the dash in the fuse box because this fuse is also for your O/D, and SRS (airbags). I blew about 15 of these fuses due to a bad connection. Good luck. later

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

''hook up the red and the yellow wire to it. When the switch is turned on, the OD will turn off. When the switch is down, OD will be on (like normal driving)''

hey, man. Are u sure we have to use the black and red wires? there was a rely above u said he used yellow and red. I am not sure who is right tho.

Ken

5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/injen short ram intake/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(front)/shunk2 coilover/Koni adjustable (front)/KYB struts(rear)Konig V-racing front bar/rear upper bar/Enkei RSF2 17" with Kumho/ Nakayamaprojectors /WW 3 pieces wing/M3 mirror/interior mods

Ken


5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/ported TB/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(fron

Well I can tell you right now my yellow wire is not hooked up. I have the RAZO RA-91 in my car right now (Pistol Grip w/ OD) and only have Red and Black hooked up. My yellow wire is cut and hooked to nothing and my O/D works fine. The only thing is is the light doesn't work which I don't care. So from my personal experience the red and black is all we HAVE to have hooked up for OD to work. Later

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

hey...I have the RA-92. the two wires for it are identical, right? does it matter which connect to which? thx.
Ken

5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/injen short ram intake/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(front)/shunk2 coilover/Koni adjustable (front)/KYB struts(rear)Konig V-racing front bar/rear upper bar/Enkei RSF2 17" with Kumho/ Nakayamaprojectors /WW 3 pieces wing/M3 mirror/interior mods

Ken


5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/ported TB/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(fron

I don't think it matters. I had 2 black wires coming out of the RA-91 and just hooked the red to one, and the black to the other. I don't think it matters which hooks to which as long as it has power, and a ground.

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

Anyway to mod the RAZO to get the OD light to work still???

Second Place "Sanford Sound SLAP 2005" Mild 2-Door
http://www.sanfordsound.com/carwash2005.htm
Second Place "Scrapefest 2002" 2nd Gen Mild
1995 GS AT, 97-99 Conversion.
2000 BMW Z3 2.8
1999 Chevy K2500 crew cab
5 jets skis, 3 snowmobiles, 2 ATVs. BRAAP!
Member # 1147

Not that I am aware of. I am sure there is someway but it really doesn't bother me. I can tell when OD is off or on.

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

Hey. I finally did it. Thanks for all the help! It looks great! I don't and will never smoke so I took out the lighter and I put the new button there. I did not get the SRS light when I finished and tested the car so I'm guessign it's done right.

I have some questions though:

1) I just extended the wires by twisting them together and wrapping them in black electrical tape. Is that OK?

2) I can't tell if O/D is on or off? How can i tell? Are there some different test runs I can do to find out if O/D is on or off?

Thanks a lot. You were a big help.

I'll post some pics soon.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

Well it shouldn't be that hard to see if O/D is on/off. Just jump on the highway and when you get up to about 60 push the button. If it shifts O/D is on. If it doesn't shift then you need to re-wire it probably. Hope it all works out good for you. Sounds like you did it right. And for the black electrical tape that will work just fine. As long as the wires are protected from being cut on metal or something you will be just fine. Any more ?'s just ask. Later

DSM Registry Profiles:
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1410 (Eclipse)
http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1411 (Talon)

hey....for the factory auto shift stick, when we push down the button, the OD is off, if he rewire the OD button, the OD is on when he push the button?

Ken

5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/injen short ram intake/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(front)/shunk2 coilover/Koni adjustable (front)/KYB struts(rear)Konig V-racing front bar/rear upper bar/Enkei RSF2 17" with Kumho/ Nakayamaprojectors /WW 3 pieces wing/M3 mirror/interior mods

Ken


5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/ported TB/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(fron

97GS AT:

Hey, a little off topic but how are those Fidanza cam gears workin for ya. I wanted to get AEM's but I want the lowest possible price. What are the difference in gains between the two and any other popular brands (if there are any let me know). Thanks.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

I notice just a little different after the cam gears installed. I tuned them at intake +2, and exhaust -2. I think the Fidanza will just do the same as other brands like AEM. I think the Fidanza is a little cheaper than AEM?

Ken

5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(front)/shunk2 coilover/Koni adjustable (front)/KYB struts(rear)Konig V-racing front bar/rear upper bar/painted black Enkei RSF2 17" with Kumho/ Nakayamaprojectors /WW 3 pieces wing/interior mods

Ken


5zigen rearsection/Cherrybomb glasspack resonator/Bosal header/injen short ram intake/ported TB/AFX UDP/Fidanza cam gears/Power Stop cross drill rotors(fron

Hey GTAGRIP:

Do you mean FLOOR / WOT it on the highway and press the button when I reach 60?

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood