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targa tops have been discussed before many moons ago here. The ultimate outcome and general unanomous(sp?) vote was that it is only practical to Targa Top a Spyder, not anymore more or less. The spydder is the only version that has all the crossmembers underneath the car, and in the sides...hence it weighs more...but you dont want to weigh more now do you? I have only seen one targa eclipse, and it was a spyder. Dood put superman shit all over it, logos, you name it. Same color red as mine. Looked sweet as hell but I think it cost him around 3500+ to do the conversion.
My advice? 2 options...
If you wanna KEEP a sunroof, tear out all that shit and get a track for a STOCK eclipse sunroof with sunroof glass. The track is expensive, i think $500 new and $500 new for the glass. BUT if you check out a junkyard it would be around $125 for the glass and I'm guessing around $200 for the track assembly. Then install that and you should be fine. Use lots of sealant and goop around the edges of the track. I am 99% positive that all or most aftermarket sunroofs are smaller in dimension from a stock one. They do this so that people who have the issues like you are having can always do something about it.  As for the sunroof switches? Its a simple track and release switch mounted up inside. Check out a buddy's car to find out how to wire it to your tracklines.
If you wanna DITCH a sunroof, tear out all that shit and go to a junkyard once again and find a roof off a eclipse or talon. Have a good body guy cut off your roof at its main support structures and weld on the new roof. The reason I say to go that way is because any kind of sheetmetal will flex and bend. Plus ANY kind of bondo up there will go fast with the sun and temperatures. Also you have to factor in daily driving and creaks and twists when you turn, etc. Theres alot of flexing up there, and no the sunroof doesnt provide THAT much of a structure support. The track itself inside the sunroof is what does that job. You ever looked at your track? Its stiff on the sides and think on the back peice. That is why. Now like I said, find a good body dood and a welder. My parents a lonnng time ago bought a 1986 Ford LTD that was half a car. It had a LTD's front half cut right down behind the drivers door welded to a rear half of another wrecked LTD from the passenger door back. It can be done and is usually SAFER this way. If you weld it right it will hold and look good as new. My parents bought that car knowing what happened to it and how it was fixed. You'd never know it. The interior, the sides, the frame, etc perfect fit and painted. Now where is the car you ask? We sold it to the neighbors down the street and they STILL drive it after the a/c went out on it. 245,000 original miles on it....120,000 or so miles on it since it was fixed. Still runs good as new. Anyway, do that and weld on another roof of a car....besides, you can still do the roof scoop idea if your really stuck on doing that route.
Hope this advice helps.
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