I picked up some new parts at the junk yard, new black dash, center console, black interior door handles/seat levers, and a turbo muffler. Got it all for $20.

My buddy came and helped me pull the dash at the yard, then swap it for mine. We had to swap wiring harnesses though because we had to cut the one in the new dash to get it out in time (the junkyard was about to close)

I got everything swapped out friday night and hooked back up yesterday. I also had to replace my battery. When I started the car, it started fine, but I don't have any turn signals, or a tach. The car hasn't run long enough for me to be sure if the temp guage works, but I think everything on that half of the cluster is out.

So, I think I can isolate the problem to the cluster. Either the connector on the left side of the cluster is in wrong (maybe I put the harness back in wrong) or the cluster got damaged (i was cleaning to get rid of the rest of the mouse smell from the old dash, maybe it got wet and I didn't realize it), or maybe there is a fuse that connects to that plug, IDK.

What I need from you guys is to know if there is a singular fuse for the cluster, or that part of the cluster that could have blown, and close up picture of the plugs behind the guage cluster if anyone has five minutes and a camera.

If it's neither of those, I have 2 hours to get to the jy and pull another cluster if they got one.

Thanks in advanced- also sorry if this is the wrong place for this post, I wasn't sure where it would go, but interior seemed most appropriate.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)

checked fuses, all are good, tach works fine in gear, temp guage comes on as well, but no way to be sure it's accurate. also found out my transmission pan gasket is dry rotted, lost most my tranny fluid driving 1 block down the road to see if the tach worked in gear.

gotta get a new filter kit now.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)

sounds like you knocked something loose. did you just replace the dash pad or swap everything including the guages?

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Ronin, didn't see your post. Thanks for the help, as it turns out you were right, I knocked an in-line fuse loose, probably when I changed the harness.

I just replaced the pad, heater controls, vents, and air bag. I used my old gauges and wiring harness.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)

Problem solved!

I reinstalled the hazard switch to confirm that I still had hazard lights. The lights worked, but more importantly, the indicators on the cluster worked. Since I read in a post I found with the search button that the turn signals and hazard lights are on different wiring schemes, had now isolated the problem to the turn signal (I already confirmed that the gauges were functioning when the car was in gear). Since the primary fuse was still good, and the problem was probably with the wiring for the turn signal, I decided to trace the wires from the steering console to the fuse box. About 6 - 8 inches past the console I found a 15 amp in-line fuse that had slid halfway out of it's socket. I pushed the fuse in all the way and viola! turn signals.

I figured I would make this post for future reference if anyone else runs into the same predicament changing dashes.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)

actually, reinstalling your hazard switch is probably what fixed your problem. The hazards and turn signals are on the same circuit as well. just an fyi.

Banned

No, reinstalling the hazards did not fix my problem. As I said before, I plugged it back in to see if the cluster was the problem. I had hazards, but no turn signals, which means 2 things, they are wired separately, and the problem was neither the hazard switch nor the cluster since both worked. The problem was the fuse between the hazard switch and the fuse box.

Lets examine a basic principle of electricity. If two items are run on the same electrical circuit (as in a series circuit) the items cannot function independently. If one is broken, the entire system is broken. If one is turned off, the entire system is off. That would mean with my hazard switch unplugged, I would have neither turn signals nor hazards. However, with it plugged in, I would have both hazards and turn signals, but only if both switches were in the on position, meaning that in order to use turn signals, I would have to have my hazards on at all times, which makes turn signals useless.

As an alternative, the wires could be plugged in different electrical circuits (parallel). This would mean that the two systems would not rely on the other system. In other words, I could have my turn signals off and turn my hazards on, or the other way around. This method obviously seems more practical.

As you can see, common sense dictates that the two would be put on separate circuits. Obviously they're not on completely different circuits because they share some common components (the lights, cluster, etc.), However, they are still wired in parallel, just a less simplistic version. While I understand your point of view seeing this as the same circuit, you are only partially correct. As I have said, parts of the line are the same, but they have to be able to branch out into two parallel circuits at some point to function correctly.

Also you must consider how switches work to understand why plugging in the hazard switch would not fix my problem. Switches only transmit electricity when they are on, that is when they form a closed circuit. When they are off, they do not transmit electricity, and they create an open circuit. Therefore, unplugging a switch completely would have the same electrical effect as turning it off. Subsequently, plugging it back in in the off position would have no effect on the circuit what so ever.

Long story short... I'm right, your wrong, fuck off.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)

As much as I can appreciate a lengthy dissertation on basic electrical engineering, there's really no reason to be a complete prick to someone if and when they're wrong, especially when they're trying to help. I don't know if he somehow impugned the size of your e-peen or what; But, relax.

1998 Eclipse RS-T - Totaled 4/23/09 -
1998 Eclipse GST - Stroked 2.3l, HX40 fed: Build in progress
2010 Subaru Outback Limited

I hate hipsters.

Yeah, I don't what my deal was yesterday. It gets under my skin when people correct me with what I know is misinformation, but he was trying to be helpful and I took that way too far. My bad, sorry guys.

My build: verttuner.com (hosted on my blog)