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97AllMtrFeb-01-09 05:09 PM
Member since Jul 20th 2007
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#102863, "Painting process"




          

So, I am painting my old stock hood that I have as well as my new one I got. But, my old hood has a lot of damage to it and I was going to try my skills on some body work. So, my question is, what grit should I sand it down with to start using body filler to fix the dents. Then, what grit should I sand the body filler with, etc, etc. SO, basically, what is the whole process and grits of paper to use and when. Also, what steps can you use and electric sander and when should you do it by hand. I am really starting to get interested in body repair. I also plan to get an air compressor and a nice paint gun.

  

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Replies to this topic
RE: Painting process, 97AllMtr, Feb-03-09 04:30 PM, #1
RE: Painting process, eclipse982nrRST, Feb-03-09 05:03 PM, #2
RE: Painting process, Moderatorteklein, Feb-03-09 05:19 PM, #3
RE: Painting process, eclipse982nrRST, Feb-03-09 06:13 PM, #4
      RE: Painting process, ez, Feb-03-09 08:08 PM, #5
           RE: Painting process, foggy45, Feb-03-09 09:14 PM, #6
RE: Painting process, 97AllMtr, Feb-03-09 11:50 PM, #7
RE: Painting process, RoninEclipse2G, Feb-04-09 12:53 PM, #8
      RE: Painting process, eclipse982nrRST, Feb-04-09 05:26 PM, #9
           RE: Painting process, RoninEclipse2G, Feb-04-09 05:57 PM, #10

97AllMtrFeb-03-09 04:30 PM
Member since Jul 20th 2007
175 posts,
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#102869, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 0
Feb-03-09 04:30 PM by 97AllMtr



          

Oh, looks like no one knows the process, including me. emoji

  

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eclipse982nrRSTFeb-03-09 05:03 PM
Member since Mar 16th 2004
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#102870, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 0


          

If you can get down to bare metal before body filler, that is a plus, if you cant, no big deal. If going down to bare metal, sand it down with some 80 grit. If not, just scuff it up with some 110 grit paper. Also, you mentioned about using electric sanders, do not do that. They create a bad hook pattern in the paint/filler. If you want to use a sander, get a DA sander, they run off a air compressor. After you lay down your filler, wait for it to FULLY CURE, then I always rough that down with 120, then 220, and then fine sanding all the marks out with some 320, hit the spot with some primer, wet sand the primer and make sure everything is smooth and not wavy, make sure all your dry sanding marks are out of the surface and filler. Then after you wetsand it, hit it with the paint, make sure you fully clean it before painting. If you were close, I would personally help you, but your not, haha. Also, you mentioned before about using Bondo. Do not use that brand filler. It is junk. If you want a good filler, get some filler called Feather Lite, its made by USC I think the company is called. If you are filling over urethane or plastic, use some filler called DuraGlass, made by the same company. Then use the Lite over the DuraGlass.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

  

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ModeratortekleinFeb-03-09 05:19 PM
Member since Nov 04th 2007
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#102871, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 2


          

Ive always had great success with Evercoat. Available at NAPA, like 20 a gallon.

  

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eclipse982nrRSTFeb-03-09 06:13 PM
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#102872, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 3


          

Originally posted by teklein
Ive always had great success with Evercoat. Available at NAPA, like 20 a gallon.


Yeah thats good stuff too, however, the FeatherLite is only $12 a gallon and is strong as fuck and sands very nicely!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

  

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ezFeb-03-09 08:08 PM
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#102873, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 4


          

I'm using evercoat on my fiberglass triple gauge steering column pod - what a PITA to sand! is the featherlite easier? where do you get it from? I found the evercoat at ACE hardware

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

  

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foggy45Feb-03-09 09:14 PM
Member since Dec 28th 2003
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#102874, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 5
Feb-03-09 09:16 PM by foggy45



          

only some spots needed to go to metal, the rest i just needed to go to the primer.

(this is after one fill and one sand, ready for another fill and blocking)

______________________________________
______________________________________
"Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it."
"My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."

Best sum up of working on a 2GNT
DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."


Ahhhh Priceless . . .
eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red"
RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"

  

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97AllMtrFeb-03-09 11:50 PM
Member since Jul 20th 2007
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#102875, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 2




          

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
If you can get down to bare metal before body filler, that is a plus, if you cant, no big deal. If going down to bare metal, sand it down with some 80 grit. If not, just scuff it up with some 110 grit paper. Also, you mentioned about using electric sanders, do not do that. They create a bad hook pattern in the paint/filler. If you want to use a sander, get a DA sander, they run off a air compressor. After you lay down your filler, wait for it to FULLY CURE, then I always rough that down with 120, then 220, and then fine sanding all the marks out with some 320, hit the spot with some primer, wet sand the primer and make sure everything is smooth and not wavy, make sure all your dry sanding marks are out of the surface and filler. Then after you wetsand it, hit it with the paint, make sure you fully clean it before painting. If you were close, I would personally help you, but your not, haha. Also, you mentioned before about using Bondo. Do not use that brand filler. It is junk. If you want a good filler, get some filler called Feather Lite, its made by USC I think the company is called. If you are filling over urethane or plastic, use some filler called DuraGlass, made by the same company. Then use the Lite over the DuraGlass.


This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Thanks so much!

  

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RoninEclipse2GFeb-04-09 12:53 PM
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#102880, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 2




          

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
If you can get down to bare metal before body filler, that is a plus, if you cant, no big deal. If going down to bare metal, sand it down with some 80 grit. If not, just scuff it up with some 110 grit paper. Also, you mentioned about using electric sanders, do not do that. They create a bad hook pattern in the paint/filler. If you want to use a sander, get a DA sander, they run off a air compressor. After you lay down your filler, wait for it to FULLY CURE, then I always rough that down with 120, then 220, and then fine sanding all the marks out with some 320, hit the spot with some primer, wet sand the primer and make sure everything is smooth and not wavy, make sure all your dry sanding marks are out of the surface and filler. Then after you wetsand it, hit it with the paint, make sure you fully clean it before painting. If you were close, I would personally help you, but your not, haha. Also, you mentioned before about using Bondo. Do not use that brand filler. It is junk. If you want a good filler, get some filler called Feather Lite, its made by USC I think the company is called. If you are filling over urethane or plastic, use some filler called DuraGlass, made by the same company. Then use the Lite over the DuraGlass.


Mike, you need to do a body/paint article in the wiki.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

  

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eclipse982nrRSTFeb-04-09 05:26 PM
Member since Mar 16th 2004
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#102882, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 8


          

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST If you can get down to bare metal before body filler, that is a plus, if you cant, no big deal. If going down to bare metal, sand it down with some 80 grit. If not, just scuff it up with some 110 grit paper. Also, you mentioned about using electric sanders, do not do that. They create a bad hook pattern in the paint/filler. If you want to use a sander, get a DA sander, they run off a air compressor. After you lay down your filler, wait for it to FULLY CURE, then I always rough that down with 120, then 220, and then fine sanding all the marks out with some 320, hit the spot with some primer, wet sand the primer and make sure everything is smooth and not wavy, make sure all your dry sanding marks are out of the surface and filler. Then after you wetsand it, hit it with the paint, make sure you fully clean it before painting. If you were close, I would personally help you, but your not, haha. Also, you mentioned before about using Bondo. Do not use that brand filler. It is junk. If you want a good filler, get some filler called Feather Lite, its made by USC I think the company is called. If you are filling over urethane or plastic, use some filler called DuraGlass, made by the same company. Then use the Lite over the DuraGlass.
Mike, you need to do a body/paint article in the wiki.


Yeah I know, however I am lazy.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

  

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RoninEclipse2GFeb-04-09 05:57 PM
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#102883, "RE: Painting process"
In response to Reply # 9




          

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Yeah I know, however I am lazy.


your car says otherwise emoji

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

  

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