I am just finishing a engine rebuild and AT to MT trans swap and my key won't turn the car off and won't come out of the cylinder. Has anyone had this issue before? I did a search and couldn't find any information related to this subject.





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Mopar (Chrysler) 420a Engine

550 CC Injectors
Xtreme Boost Ported head
Wiseco 8:8:1 pistons with .020 overbore
Cosmetic turbo head gasket
Eagle H-beam connecting Rods
Crane #14 cams
Aem adjustable cams gears
OBX intake manifold ported
OBX Fuel Rail
AFX Underdrive Pulley
55 mm throttle body
Mopar timing tensioning bearings
Mopar hydraulic tensioner
Mopar water pump
Melling Oil pump
Fluidyne Radiator (not installed yet, waiting on fan)
ARP Head stud kit
SSI Valves

Clevite 77 Engine Bearings
Corteco engine gaskets



Turbo

Hahn Race Craft Super 16g
Hahn Race Craft front mount intercooler
Hahn Race Craft mandrel bent pipes
Blitz blow out valve

Nitrous
Zex 75 shot nitrous system

Brakes
Aem Big Brake kit

Exhaust

Hahn Race Craft downpipe
HKS Catback

Transmission
5 Speed conversion

Chrome in engine compartment:
Mopar Engine mounts
Mopar Power steering pump bracket
Valve cover
Mopar Transmission cable brackets
Mopar Thermostat housing
Hayame Power steering Cap
Hayame Brake master cylinder cap
Hayame Clutch master cylinder cap
Hayame Radiator brackets
Mopar clutch master cylinder
Mopar brake master cylinder

Wheels/tires

Nitto NT 555 Extreme 235/35 ZR19
19"x8" Dazz Matiz 3 piece racing wheels

Suspension

Eibach sportline springs
Tokico struts

Exterior

Blitz urethane full body kit
Molded side skirts with custom side scoops
Nissan Silvia S15 headlight conversion
Kaminari Tail

Misc

Greddy Turbo Timer
Greddy oil pressure guage
Greddy Boost Guage

Lots of ICE that I switch out depending on my mood:

Including:

Clarion DVD
Alpine Amps
Kicker 12" subs

Tried turning the steering wheel? Just taking a shot at the obvious...

Yes, I have tried turning the wheel. Thanks for asking though.

The same thing happens to me one the one set of keys I have.

I basically just wiggle it out and try moving it back and forth.

I didnt wiggle it violently though, I didn't want to snap the key then I'd really be SOL.

I looked at the key and its twisted, so maybe your keys twisted?

I just tried wiggling, pulling & pushing while I was turning the wheel back and fourth and still nothing.

I figured it out. It was the key interlock cable. This cable is usually attached to an AT and when switching out to a MT if the cable is not pushed in your key will not shut off the car or come out of the ignition.

Thanks anyway gentlemen.

Would have never guessed lol

Oh well.

By the way I like what you've done with your car.

Yup its that cable. I made the mistake of leaving it on as well when I did the swap. Needless to say It was a pain to take everything out.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

A little late, but when I would have a similiar problem with my car, I'd just stick it back in gear and drive around the block. I could guess that the extra driving vibrated the key loose but really I always just take it as a sign that the 'ol girl isn't done driving yet

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Hard work pays off.

I can imagine all the grease, when I put on my exhaust and header my hands were dirty for a week. Then again I didnt have and gojo. Im sure you went through a few jars of it easily.

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

I gotta mention, though, I like the bat on the FMIC. It's a nice touch. Like the Batmobile, although I doubt Bruce Wayne's ass had any cupholders.

also what I did in the mean time was to tape it, that way it would hold for 2 days.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for