I was driving home tonight and put on my left turn signal. Now it's stuck on. It won't turn off. Checked: Blubs, fuse, disconnect battery, hazards work too.

I've read a couple things about the turn signal relay behind the radio or the actual switch in the sterring wheel going bad. Anyone have any other good ideas or write ups on how to check this stuff out? '98 RS without cruise.

Thanks

Just in case anyone was wondering...

Broked = Broken (in normal English)

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Thanks for the response. Maybe you should look to help instead of pointing out obvious mistakes made on purpose.

Shall I take a look back at your posts to check for mistakes?

replace the broked switch in the steering column

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

So today is 2gnt jokester day. Jesus, does anyone have a write up on the disassembly of the steering column or even better, has anyone changed the switch themselves?

I understand from reading some of the DSMTuner boards (before they went down today) that this is a little more difficult then popping a switch out and putting a new in.

I haven't done it on this car, but its usually like this

#1 unplug battery and go for a beer to discharge the capacitors in the air bag
#2 find the couple screws on the bottom of the steering wheel bezel and take off bezel (plastic trim around the column)
#3 replace switch.

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

I had this happen to me once. The easiest thing is to replace the control stalk on the column. I tried to use one from a parts car, but you'd have to find another car the same year and trim level as your own and even then, it's hit or miss with the way they're wired up internally.

If the signal is constantly blinking, the flasher relay is fine. It's because something in the control stalk borked and is stuck closing the circuit.

There's four bolts going into the back of the steering wheel to remove the airbag, but be sure to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for ten, fifteen minutes to be sure the SRS system discharges.

Once you get the airbag out, you remove the center nut on the wheel and wiggle the wheel back and forth as you pull on it. It will more than likely come off when you least expect it.

Basically, aside from disabling the SRS system, it's all pretty straight forward and common sense stuff. You'll see. There is really no disassembly of any components, just removal. Then you slide the new control stalks back on (did I forget to mention you'll have to buy the turn signal and wiper controls for a grand total of about $125) and reverse your removal steps.

On the plus side, new turn signal and wiper controls make the car almost feel new again. Not old and borked like it really is.

Thanks for your help DR1665. This is was what I was looking for. I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to take the steering wheel off and have the whole column come apart or something to that effect.

I was also considering going used, but most of the places are that have salvage parts are out of state. I'd probably have a pretty difficult time returning something if it was the wrong part.

While expensive, most times the dealer has the right part for your make/model/year. I'd only save 50 bucks going used, I'll go with the dealer.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Replying to my own post.

Picked up the turn signal switch module thingy this morning. It’s a box with two female harness connections and the turn signal - light stalk. This may only apply to an RS, I do not have cruise control.

1. Removed neg batt cable, let sit 30 minutes

2. Removed three Phillips screws on bottom of steering column to remove plastic cover.

3. Removed four 10mm bolts from behind the steering wheel, air bag popped off.

4. Removed one harness connection and one purple plug in connection from airbag.

5. Needed breaker bar and WD40; removed center 17mm bolt. It would be helpful to have a deep 17mm socket here. The center steering wheel bolt has A LOT of teeth. I marked the position of the wheel on the bolt with a sharpie to insure I put it back on the right teeth.

6. Removed four screws for clock spring, but did not remove clock spring, I only let it come forward an inch. (when putting this back together, the clock spring has two arrows that need to line up).

7. Removed the two screws holding the switch and unplugged the two harnesses in the switch.

8. Installed new switch and then repeated steps backwards.

In all, took about an hour. I will have an official write up with pictures later this week. Thanks for everyone's help.

My signal switch toasted out this morning while I was on the turnpike. Never a good thing. Anyway, The new switch should be here in a few days. Thanks for the write-up, I'll be sure to take pics when I do mine; Just in case any other newbies (like me) have the same problem.

1998 Eclipse RS-T - Totaled 4/23/09 -
1998 Eclipse GST - Stroked 2.3l, HX40 fed: Build in progress
2010 Subaru Outback Limited

I hate hipsters.

I have a 99 gs and mine did the same thing when I was turning left to get on the interstate. Pretty embarrassing too since I had a date with me.

Same thing happened to me. Dealership wanted like $200 for a new one. Liked at it for a bit and realized that there was a little tiny plastic nipple that broke off. I just drilled a hole and krazy glued a finishing nail in. Yes its getto but it works and saved me $200. If you want some pictures let me know.

I wish I would have seen this thread earlier. This was put in the Wiki on 8/30/07. I included the link for people who have problems in the future. Credit goes to Fallen4ng31.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Turn_signal_switch_swap

My Blog

I just picked up the replacement turn signal switch from auto zone for about $75. Installed it last night and it took me longer to get the drop light and tools out than it did to actually change it out. Works like new now.

I just got this issue two weeks ago and I just got around to fixing it(yea I've been driving without turn signals for two weeks, I pulled the fuse). Being that I am a poor college student, I decided to take everything apart and look at it before buying any new parts.

When I took apart the switch assembly I noticed there were three "random" pieces of plastic jiggling around in the switch. It wasn't hard to figure out where each piece went and I just super glued (Cyanoacrylate - CA)everything back in place. There is a small plastic pin that moves another plastic piece, with metal contacts on top, back and forth when you hit the turn signal, bridging the gaps for each turn signal contacts. I reassembled the switch assembly and it works fine. If the pin ever breaks, I'll probably try the screw method as mentioned earlier. It is not worth $50+ to replace a broken pin the size of the lead/graphite tip of a pencil.

So anyway, I didn't take pictures while disassembling because I didn't have the foresight to do so, but I have a couple pictures that should be helpful.

Please refer to http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Turn_signal_switch_swap for information on how to get the switch off in the first place.

Obligatory Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any results of your actions. Should you follow the instructions listed below, you do so at your own risk. The instructions and pictures are for informational purposes only.
(please don't sue me if you cut/bruise/maim/or otherwise injure yourself while following said instructions mmmkay?)



Tools Required:
1. Phillips Screw Driver
2. CA Glue
3. 15-20 minutes of time/energy


1. Make sure the battery is disconnected and you let the airbag capacitor drain (the longer the better; I just unplugged it the night before working on it. Someone said 15 minutes is fine. idk.)
2. Remove screws. (Red)
3. Pry tabs to release housing. (Blue)


1. Unplug Wire


1. Re-glue Pin/drill small hole and insert screw. (Red) This is the pin that does the "switching" of the turn signals and is most important (and yet made very cheaply - go figure)
2. Two other broken tabs that needed re-glued. I'm not positive of what they do, but why not fix them while you're in there?
3. Make sure you don't lose the white dome-shaped pieces or the springs behind them. They keep the turn signal beam centered when not in use, and bent/switched/turned when in use.


1. You can see here where the pin you just fixed should go. It has to be in the slot in the white piece or it won't do anything, or will most likely break the first time you try it.


1. Here is another view without the switch beam assembly so you can see it better.
2. Replace the fuse if you were like me and decided to drive without turn signals until you fixed this issue.
3. Reassemble everything. Reattach your battery.


Success! Now down your favorite beverage and start driving again without the worry of getting hit or pulled over because of the lack of a turn signal.

Are you related to azdave because that is one great writeup!

My Blog

Thanks! Haha, nah I just believe in quality over quantity and I'd rather make it clear the first time so I don't have to go back over stuff and re-explain things. I'm just glad I don't have to spend any money because I'm pretty much broke. lol

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Done. I added a link to this thread under the "PROBLEMS" section and also added a link to the page that shows you how to take the switch off in my post.

About the soda, originally you could only really find Bawls Guarana at gaming tournaments and computer stores (at least in my area). This was two years ago. Now they sell them at local gas stations and beverage distributors. In my opinion it tastes better from the glass bottles they normally/originally come in, but I bought the can because it's all the store had at the time. It tastes nothing like Red Bull/Amped/Monster, etc as it doesn't have any Taurine in it and is pretty much just soda with natural Guarana bean extract for the energy.