first off dont say dont put a body kit on because i am whether you say to or not. Iam curious to see how many of you are using fiberglass kits and how many urethane. Also wheres the best place to get kits that fit with little problems. I had purchased a VIS fiberglass blitz kit and fit horrible. Its sitting in my basement and havnt decided if its worth it to do the body work or by a urethane kit. The only urethane kit is the blitz if im not mistaken. If im going to have the same problem with urethane i might as well put the fiberglass on? Just wondering what the majority of you are using out there and how you went about fitting your kits. My side skirts fit so bad i couldnt even shut my doors because of the extra fiberglass going into the doors. Are you guys sanding all that off and riveting them on from inside the wheel wells or what? Just looking for some tips and pointers for molding this thing on. thanks
#101930, "RE: body kit question??" In response to Reply # 0
nothing will fit perfect. blitz is not the only urethane kit. stillen, vielside and some other also make urethane. lowering, rims, oem skirts and a cf hood and performance mods...sick enough...sell your fiberglass front and save towards a turbo kit...you will not be disappointed...and see, i didn't say don't do it, i just used creative speaking.
later
2GNT #1865 2006 Yamaha YZF R6 (Blue/Black) 2005 Honda CBR 600 RR (Blue REPSOL) 2003 BMW 325I Premium/Sport Package 2003 Honda CBR 600 RR (sold) 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (sold) Shuwa's links: http://www.facebook.com/Shuwa29 http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b50/shuwa29/ DarkOne> but we all have that inner ricer that is just dying to come out sometimes...
#101936, "RE: body kit question??" In response to Reply # 0
Most body kits have excess material. To install you will need a dremel with a cut-off wheel to trim the excess. Make sure that you use a face shield to protect your face from the wheel fragments that will fly off. Make sure none of your friends are anywhere close or they may end up with a fragment impaled in their eye. I usually make cardboard templates of the edges of the stock body parts and transfer it over to the kit using a sharpy marker and marking it at known points.
#101938, "RE: body kit question??" In response to Reply # 2
i have a good 15 hours or so of work in my Bomex front and rear. (Authentic and fiberglass) and this isn't counting the time for the first rear that some ass clown decided to destroy by rear ending me :wallsmash
but it also depends on the final look of the car you want. mine is a deep wet, wet-sanded black, so my fitment and finish had to be spot on before final blocking.
some people can deal with irregular gaps or weird anomalies that creep up with most kits regardless of manufacture, unless you are paying more for your kit then most people pay for their 2GNT's while others spend hours with filler and a sanding block to make it just right
______________________________________ ______________________________________ "Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it." "My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."
Best sum up of working on a 2GNT DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."
Ahhhh Priceless . . . eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red" RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"