I've been pretty busy working and saving up cash. I have a whole gameplan down once I get the money. (I hate doing one mod at a time)

My car having 132XXX miles on it, I should def. get a new head gasket before I get an EVO 3 turbo and crank the boost. So in that case, I want to get another head, either 1G or 2G, ship it out to get ported/polished, toss cams, cam gears, springs, retainers, 97 lifters and rockers, and maybe oversized valves in it.

Here are a few questions...

1) the 1G head flows more than the 2G, but will a ported 2G still make a difference over a stock 1G? Should I get and port a 1G head?

2) Installation issues?

3) Expected gains from ported head, granted I have all the supporting mods to go with it.

4) What kind of head gasket should I get? Thickness will alter my compression ratio, so, yeah what size?

That might be it, I think...

-Nick

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

1g head has bigger running to start with, but cant be ported out much before you run out of material.

2g head has much smaller runners, but can be ported out larger than a 1g head.

_______________________________________
The end of the internet begins here... www.broke-off.com

Sounds good, kinda the answer I wanted to hear, thanks, Nick

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

Yep, just port your stock head. You can flow more with a ported 2G head. Use the Mitsubishi triple metal HG with ARP head studs.

An even better response, thanks.

As for the topic of cams, I was thinking HKS, cuz they make some DAMN good parts. And 97 rockers and lifters will eliminate my 95 lifter tick, correct?

Expected HP gains out of the built head alone... anyone?

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

___________________________________

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

Fp'2 give you the same gains as the hks 272s and idle like stock. How do I know ? They are in my car. Didnt have to adjust the idle at all.

As far as lifters , you want 3rd gen revised lifters. You can get them ebay if you feel lucky or from the usual dsm sites. They should be around $100 or so.


WWW.CNNMOTORSPORTS.COM

Wow! thanks guys for all the responses.

Sorry, but HKS is JAPANESE and I'm really proud of my mom's heritage, plus she can translate any tech support needed from Tokyo, LOL.

As far as a snail goes, here's my mod list when I do it all up...

Apex'i N1 Cat-back (for starters shit I aint got exhaust yet)
Buy a used 2G head, send it to be ported out
Let the head sit on my workbench, get the cams, cam gears, lifters, rockers, springs, retainers, etc...
Evo 3 Turbo
Evo 3 o2 housing
660cc injectors
255lph walboro
Apex'i S-AFC II
Apex'i AVC-R
Lower Intercooler pipe and HRC side-mount or equal
Dejon Tool Blow-thru pipes with HKS SSQ bov, 3" GM MAF and MAF-T
1G intake manifold w/ 1G TB and ported plenum
Apex'i N1 Downpipe
Stock Mitsu head gasket
Timing Belt and balance belt (maybe)

That's the basics and starters for my mods. I'm gonna stock up on all the parts and do a 2-day install on EVERYTHING!

240-ish HP when it rolls into my garage, and 400-ish HP (hopefully) when she rolls out of it, do you guys agree? I HATE doing one mod at a time, I think we all should dump $10,000 on our cars and see the REAL difference from near stock to totally s00ped up!

Thanks again, Nick

Also, I think I will be at the line where I can run the HP safely (boost controlled and on pump gas) without breaking my bottom end, and also be at the point where my drive axles shouldn't break. My Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch should hold the HP... do you guys agree with me?

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

I wouldn't recommend the N1, they have a higher pitched sound opposed to some other brands out there like Thermal, but it's still a popular exhaust.

And I didn't see any type of limited slip.

Edit- Oh, and I would skip the S-AFC shit and go for DSMLink.

Well, S-AFC is something I've always wanted. Idk about DSM-link...

As far as the N1 exhaust goes, I'm kinda hooked on Apex'i products, so I'm sticking with it. Friend of mine has a Thermal on his 99 GSX sounds ok but eh, Apex'i all the way...

Limited Slip? Yea, it'd be nice, but the limited slip, trans rebuild, engine rebuild, will all be done in another weekend, along with a T4 turbo and AEM EMS, LOL... seriously, I'm not getting into ripping the engine or trans out of the car unless its a MUST!

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

Eh, bigger means AEM EMS...

I want my foot in the door with mods or my own shop. I have to decide between the two. Having a shop just might be more fun than working for someone else. If I put mods on my car, and use it as advertisement, suddenly its a tax deductable business expense, right? LOL

'95 Copper GS-T "Serena" Stage 3 CM Clutch w/alumin flywheel, Injen Intake, Apex'i I/C pipes + Twin Chamber BOV, Defi D-Series Boost + A/F gauges...pushing 17psi!

Front mount. I dont know why people buy the pipes from dejon tool


WWW.CNNMOTORSPORTS.COM

*Evo 3 o2 housing*
- Flange to DP is a slightly different angle than 1g/2g o2 housings...so you might have fitment issues.

*Apex'i S-AFC II*
- I would skip this and get DSMLink. Who cares if you've always wanted it, you want the best not "cool" lcd screen.

*Apex'i AVC-R*
- waste of money imo. Get a MBC. If you really want a EBC, the Greddy Profec Type S is good.

*HRC side-mount or equal*
- 500 bucks for a SMIC isn't worth it. If you can get it used for a decent price, go for it. However, local guy here heat soaked his HRC SMIC on the dyno with a big16g. Get a HRC FMIC.

*3" GM MAF and MAF-T*
- You have a 2g, so you dont need the 3"GM MAF unless you are going for serious power. Bov's are loud enough recirculated.

*HKS SSQ bov*
- Waste of money imo. 1g bov is great.

*Timing Belt and balance belt (maybe)*
- Maybe? If you are doing the head gasket, it would be wise to replace the timing belt and balance belt...or eliminate the balance belt all together with the eliminator kit.

*240-ish HP when it rolls into my garage, and 400-ish HP (hopefully) when she rolls out of it, do you guys agree?*
- No way you have 240whp with the t25. I think you're crazy if you think you can get 400ish whp out of the Evo3. I think with a good tune, you will be between 270whp-300whp @20psi-22psi or so.

*Also, I think I will be at the line where I can run the HP safely (boost controlled and on pump gas) without breaking my bottom end*
- That depends on your tune....but at "400hpish", i dont think your bottem end will last long, and i definetly wouldnt say its "safe". To make 400hp on the Evo3 you are going to have to be pushing like 27-30psi with ALOT of tuning. 400whp can be done with this turbo, but not many have done it.

______________________________________________________
2003.5 M3
99 M3
99 GST