My car has been stored garaged kepted for the winter(Sept-December). I take it out for this month of Christmas Break because school is out. 53k on my car for info.

So first after taking it out, my master cylinder is leakying on the inside firewall.It was a bitch pumping the clutch till I got my master rebuild kit from autozone. But shortly after I fix it and on the road again running strong.

Next, I finally take 3 to 4 days installing my ported evo 16g w/ flapper from slowboy with 2g install kit, walbro 255, fuel pump rewire kit, OBX catch can, and PTE 550cc injectors.

So today, after finishing, nice weather and all take it for a first time spin since installing all the parts and spending crap loads on the car. I do as direction say, don't boost for 10-15 min. Then, I start to boost and seems like I have a boost leak. I can kinda feel the power but lagging. Only boosting 8 psi using wastegate set at instead of installing a boost controller for the first time.

I ride back home from the car wash to do a boost leak tester and the clutch pedal is really stiff. The clutch seems burnt out. I only smelled the clutch burn for a couple seconds then the smell went away. I barely make it home from the car wash and car wont boost and can barely accelerate, like 1 mph for every 1 second. My rpms would just go up and nothing would go to the wheels. It was just slipping, all to hell I guess.

What I don't understand is how my clutch could just fucked up right after installing the new turbo and hardly boosting passed 8psi with a boost leak and before running crazy fast on a T-25 at 16-17psi. Why did this happen?

Now I have to wait for a new clutch to purchase and install myself.... When I was saving for a FMIC. My upgrade path is exactly how RRE says to do it. Can't our clutches handle a 16g turbo at 15psi and under. I heard they are as strong as ACT1800. My clutch is only a 2 yrs old replaced and only has 8k miles on it. Thanks for any input.

97' GST(4G63)
Evo 16G Eclipse

FIrst off, check for the boost leak, but it may actually be that you are running really rich if you're only at 8psi w/550's/ fuel pump.
Check your SAFC and also take a look at your plugs...


If it is the clutch, I feel for you...i went through a 2100 in 3 months with normal driving and the occasional (VERY occasional) full out run. Personally, i made enough power on the T-25 to smoke the stock clutch after only a few months, so i definitely believe it w/a 16g, even if at only 8psi. Not sure what exactly you're asking, though....from my experience with clutches (which has been a very poor one) I say if it is the clutch, dont' screw around with a CFDF or ACT 2100, go straight to the 2600 and never look back. You'll thank me later when your clutch still exists next year.

Vandy

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Black 98 GST missing her owner and looking for a new one...Inquiries welcome

P.S. I like your body kit, its one of the few tasteful yet wild ones i've seen..

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Black 98 GST missing her owner and looking for a new one...Inquiries welcome

if you don't have the 6bolt DO NOT put a 2600 in.... you will be walking... because 97 is the best yr for walking.... you should be fine with a 2100....

But for the clutch going out it could have been because of your Master leaking... did you also do the slave cause a lot of times the other one can go out as well...... best to do both at the same time... less headachs down the road

2006 WW IX MR
2003 BBY EVO VIII (sold)
256.9WHP & 277.9torque
http://s90395832.onlinehome.us/forum//index.php?sid=a70942a7f65043e6c873e12dcd300692

1998 Eclipse RS --show car--

Well after a couple days I talked to my brother (Jason_ESit) and since I smelled my clutch burn only momentary that my clutch likely wasn't broke. What had happened since I am a tard and don't pay too close to details, is my master cylinder rod was too far up. I adjusted the clutch pedal too high because I like the feel of it and on 2g's the clutch pedals extends even further after awhile. So it wasn't engaging correctly.

I then lowered my master cylinder rod and all is good in the land of Dsm. The clutch pedal is a little mushy again but oh well, I can deal with it.

But eventually I will need a new clutch. my bro has a clutch and other 4G guys have a clutch where it will not put pressure on the crank. I can use my stock pressure plate too. So.. I have to save up for a FMIC and then a clutch and then I should be good a major mods. So your right about the crankwalk on the 97, I know about b/c left turns are weird with the clutch pedal. But I will get to that when it comes. I am not going to get any ACT clutch, they suck I hear.

My boost is around at 8 psi in 1st, 11psi in second(strong pull) and 11psi in 3rd w/o a boost controller. I think I am also going to get a dump tube from Punishment Racing or a 02 eliminator off ebay I both found for $150ish.

I will get some pics of the turbo install and such.
Thanks guys for replies.

97' GST(4G63)
Evo 16G Eclipse

I had a act 2600 in my 1gen and i luved it.... i just don't suggest getting the 2600 for 7 bolts because of CW problems..... most of my buddies have the 2100 and don't have problems.... but the ones that had the 7 bolts and went with the 2600 walked the crank.....

2006 WW IX MR
2003 BBY EVO VIII (sold)
256.9WHP & 277.9torque
http://s90395832.onlinehome.us/forum//index.php?sid=a70942a7f65043e6c873e12dcd300692

1998 Eclipse RS --show car--

I wouldnt recommend a 2600 for a gs-t either, My 2100 works fine for me.

Hello Mr. 12's . How are you today ?


Member # 333

One other thing I wanted to mention, I installed the 550cc PTE injectors and my car most being running rich. I can't even boost,the car doesn't run smoothly with the new injectors I put in tonight. I don't have my afc. Is it possible to run the car with 550 and no afc and be able to boost. The car starts to stutter when I am partial throttle. When I floor it runs a little better. The higher the gear and trying to boost the smoother the car runs. But when I try to boost in 1-3 gears the car stutters. Like the muffler is puffing and hesitating. I thought I would be able to boost with 550cc and no afc for awhile but I am guess I'm wrong. I need to sell my t25 so I get the money for an s-afc.

97' GST(4G63)
Evo 16G Eclipse

Without the AFC you're just gonna run pig rich and there is no way to stop it. The ECU dumps in a certain percentage of the duty cycle as based on 450s, so adding an extra 100cc injectors means you're dumping in ridiculous amounts of fuel. You need the AFC, no question.

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

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Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

you dont have a AFC yet...why dont you just buy a DSMLINK, it has settings that you put in and it will make your 550s work with your car like if they where 450s. i mean the car will run as good as stock, but better if you know what i mean...