Finally getting around to rebulding the motor for my 91 galant beater car..a few questions, since I'm not very familiar with this motor yet. Everything is stripped and in pieces at the moment ready for the machine shop...

I am keeping the balance shafts in this, and the one rear bearing has a very tiny sliver of metal sticking up on it, right where there is a small dip in the bearing surface. From looking at the Factory service manual, you need a special puller/installer tool to replace these. Should I just try to clean up that bearing, or replace it? All the other bearings look good, with no major deep gouges or anything.

Front cover and oil pump gaskets- I assume these go on dry, with no sealant or anything? And on the block side of the front cover, there are some very tiny "hairline" cracks on the metal surface. Looks like its just on the surface of the metal, not through the actual metal. Is this just casting cracks from the forming process, or should I be worried about this and get a new front cover assembly?

I'm planning on going with .025 over pistons/rings, and just new bearings, gaskets, timing belt stuff, and a redone head with new valves and guide seals,ect..Anyone have any input,tips, tricks for this motor?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Cool, thanks Jeff..Yeah the more I think about it, I may just do the balance shaft eliminator kit on it. Less parts to mess with, and I wont have to worry about those bearings, and trying to get them out/in either. I was told that there are no problems with ditching teh balance shafts, other than increased vibration, but i could care a less about that..also one less belt and pulley to mess with
Best place to get the eliminator kit??

I'm getting new oversize pistons, and retaining the old rods, and these dont use a floating wrist pin. I assume these need to be taken off, and installed using a press? I may have the machine shop do this..

And damn, there seems to be a crap load more parts on this motor compared to the 420A haha..And this is just my beater car/winter car, so a DOHC swap is somehting that I dont really want to mess with, already have my project car

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

__________________________________________
~Chris
03 SRT-4

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by XtremeRS And damn, there seems to be a crap load more parts on this motor compared to the 420A haha..

Originally posted by Hahnracecraft.com the 420A employs many design aspects that are more modern. These include a bedplate lower case design (no main caps, the entire engine splits in two along the crankshaft centerline), simplification of design (about 20% less parts count than the 4G6), all O-ring and rubber gasket sealing construction, knife-edge crank counterweights and an oil / water-cooled cylinder head.

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

HybriDSM@gmail.com ; HybriDSM@hotmail.com

Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

Originally posted by HybriDSM

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by XtremeRS And damn, there seems to be a crap load more parts on this motor compared to the 420A haha..

Originally posted by Hahnracecraft.com the 420A employs many design aspects that are more modern. These include a bedplate lower case design (no main caps, the entire engine splits in two along the crankshaft centerline), simplification of design (about 20% less parts count than the 4G6), all O-ring and rubber gasket sealing construction, knife-edge crank counterweights and an oil / water-cooled cylinder head.

Hey, leave us one place we can go and not get into 420a arguments. Please, we get enough crap on this board all the time anyway. This is our last haven. (Growing by the day as well LOL)

__________________________________________
~Chris
03 SRT-4

You can remove the balence shafts without buying a kit. I dont have the writeup anymore but if you need it i can get it. One option is to leave the shafts in but dont hook the belts up. the shafts will block the oil ports as normal and not affect your oil pressure. A few guys on Chicago Dsm have used tis methond and it works fine....you just have the added weight sitting there.

Terry

No, the shafts do not block your oil passages if you just remove the belt. You will have one shaft spinning and one not if you do that.

Don't share misinformation and heresay here.

Oh goodness, my statement was not meant to be derogetory or anything like that haha..just stating what i came into from having now torn into both motors..And yeah, if you leave the bal shafts in, one will always turn with the oil pump gears, while one would not..i would think that would create more vibration..I've also read that by actually blocking the oil holes, you get greater oil pressure, rather than just leaving in the shafts. A little more oil pressure can never hurt Its kinda cool too, that I can take apart this entire block with like 2 or 3 sized sockets haha. I'm likin that. Even after 180,000+ miles on that block, there is still some cylinder hone crosshatching marks left..except for the piston thrust surfaces. Not too shabby

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)