#12251, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 6
Ok so I'm a moron....help me out here. Obviously when the HKS vents to the atmosphere it makes a nice, loud sound....and relieves excess boost so your turbo's not still spinning when you shift? What advantage would I have to doing this mod as opposed to venting it? Also, anyone have any sound comparisons as to the before and after?
#12252, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 7
venting into the atmosphere makes the car run ritch between shifts and ruins your perofmance for the next gear. also i wouldnt go hks, i love my type s. greddy and tial are the only ones i would buy.
#12253, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 8
Originally posted by chrysler kid venting into the atmosphere makes the car run ritch between shifts and ruins your perofmance for the next gear. also i wouldnt go hks, i love my type s. greddy and tial are the only ones i would buy.
HKS all the way....Greddy leaks at high boost and tial does not recirc at all. So buying a tial would mean getting the GM MAf also or VPC.The Recirc fitting for the HKS is $10 from hp freaks. I have the HKS SSQV BOV and love it
_____________________________________________ Jerrome B. 1995 GSX - Race 1997 GST - Drive 1995 GST - Who the hell knows
#12255, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 10
Hmm I've never heard of the Type-S leaking. I know a ton of people that go with that BOV and not a single one has problems. Two of them actually pressure tested their system to 25psi and there was not a single leak.
To vent, or not to vent. That is the question. (which has a really simple answer. Do NOT vent.)
Here is the deal, and this is the last time I am going to type this.
The air sensor measures the incoming air before it gets to the turbo. It then sends that measurement to the ECU so it knows how much fuel to add to the air/fuel mixture inside the cylinders. When the BOV goes off, it shoots that air, which was already measured, back into the system AFTER the air sensor. This keeps the ECU and engine happy because it does not lose the measured air.
Now, if you do not let the BOV vent the air back into the intake, that measured air leaves the system. The problem here, is that the ECU has already accounted for that amount of air and dumped the correct amount of fuel into the engine to keep the air/fuel ratio happy. Since the measured air is no longer there, too much fuel goes into the engine and causes a very rich situation. This hinders performance, causes the engine to stumble, and is just overall bad.
#12256, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 11
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Hmm I've never heard of the Type-S leaking. I know a ton of people that go with that BOV and not a single one has problems. Two of them actually pressure tested their system to 25psi and there was not a single leak.
1g or 2g? I have heard plenty of stories about high boost issues on the 2g. Because of the push design.
_____________________________________________ Jerrome B. 1995 GSX - Race 1997 GST - Drive 1995 GST - Who the hell knows
#12257, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 12
It shouldn't matter if it is a 1g or a 2g. They work the same on any car
One was a 1991 TSi AWD, one was a 1995 TSi AWD. No problems. The problem people have is they do not set it up properly. There are two nipples there for a reason. You have to use them both to get the proper seal at high boost levels.
#12258, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 13
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs The problem people have is they do not set it up properly. There are two nipples there for a reason. You have to use them both to get the proper seal at high boost levels.
I thought the bottom nipple was the one that helps it open correctly under low boost. I read somewhere that you can leave the bottom one capped unless you're getting surge and then you can tap that to a manifold source to help "push" open the valve.
__________________________________________________________ -Tony <--- NOT asian. '06 Wicked White EVO IX
Originally posted by Avenger When I raise the BS flag ... it's a really big fucking flag and I raise it really fucking high too.
"Never whistle while your pissing." ~The illuminatus Trilogy
#12259, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 14
Originally posted by eclipzGST I thought the bottom nipple was the one that helps it open correctly under low boost. I read somewhere that you can leave the bottom one capped unless you're getting surge and then you can tap that to a manifold source to help "push" open the valve.
Right! The lower nipple helps it open under low boost, meaning you can tighten the screw on the BOV MUCH more than if you capped it off. You can tighten the BOV a lot to stop it from leaking, but it will not open at lower boost. If you actually use the lower nipple to help it open at lower boost, you can make the BOV harder to open so it doesn't leak at higher levels That way you get it working at all boost levels.
#12260, "RE: easy recirculation mod for HKS SSQ" In response to Reply # 11
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Hmm I've never heard of the Type-S leaking. I know a ton of people that go with that BOV and not a single one has problems. Two of them actually pressure tested their system to 25psi and there was not a single leak. To vent, or not to vent. That is the question. (which has a really simple answer. Do NOT vent.) Here is the deal, and this is the last time I am going to type this. The air sensor measures the incoming air before it gets to the turbo. It then sends that measurement to the ECU so it knows how much fuel to add to the air/fuel mixture inside the cylinders. When the BOV goes off, it shoots that air, which was already measured, back into the system AFTER the air sensor. This keeps the ECU and engine happy because it does not lose the measured air. Now, if you do not let the BOV vent the air back into the intake, that measured air leaves the system. The problem here, is that the ECU has already accounted for that amount of air and dumped the correct amount of fuel into the engine to keep the air/fuel ratio happy. Since the measured air is no longer there, too much fuel goes into the engine and causes a very rich situation. This hinders performance, causes the engine to stumble, and is just overall bad. Get it?
now that you arent gonna type it anymore, are you just gonna start copy/pasting it. :-D LOL.
