Hello, I have arospeed coilovers. I want to lower my car more than 2.5"

My problem is the top of my strut is hitting the strut mount everytime I go over a bump. I want to go lower but I cant.

Is there any other model front shocks we can use? That has a shorter bottom part(before the metal piston comes out?)

This is so stupid. I also have a ingalls front camber kit.(3 deg)

I'm also worried that my control are is going to hit the top of the inside wheel well.

How do you lower your car like 3+ inches?

Right now I can get 2 full fingers between my tire and well.

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

The arospeed springs are so damn short that the collar is made to sit on the strut perch, which is stupid for our cars.

Get some coilovers where the collar sits on the welding after you knock off the spring perch. Maxspeed is a good choice for $130.

If you want to go slammed you will need ground controls, they go damn low.

------------------------------------------------
98 ESi
95 GS

maxpeed

im ridin around on a 3inch drop right now, with KYB AGX struts.

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

personally, i wouldn't go that low. its gonna mess up your alignment pretty good, and put a lot of stress on your suspension componets. As for the front camber, you will have to modify the inner fender where the control arm edge rides up into the fender. I know with my ingalls kit(same as yours) the control arm is about 1/8 of an inch away from the inner fender well. I have the camber kit adjusted all the way negative as it goes, with my 2" approx drop in the front. Some have taken a big hammer to pound out the metal to get some room...Other options would be to cut some metal off of the control arm itself, and take out some metal to shorten the arm, but no turning back after that...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I have lowered my car till i couldnt fit a finger in the gap between the tire and fender and have had NO problems. I dont know why you have shit rubbing and hitting in your fender.

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

>I have lowered my car till i couldnt fit a finger in the gap
>between the tire and fender and have had NO problems. I
>dont know why you have shit rubbing and hitting in your
>fender.
>
Do you have the front camber kit installed and is your camber within factory specs? I'd bet not, because with that much of a drop, proper camber will make the outer edge of the control arm hit the fender well in which the control arm rides up into, at least thats what i can tell with my 2" drop and ingalls kit(+1.25-3 degreees) anyway..If you don't want your camber to be in spec with excessive drops then you wont have problems with the clearence on the control arm and fender..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

> Do you have the front camber kit installed and is your
>camber within factory specs? I'd bet not, because with that
>much of a drop, proper camber will make the outer edge of
>the control arm hit the fender well in which the control arm
>rides up into, at least thats what i can tell with my 2"
>drop and ingalls kit(+1.25-3 degreees) anyway..If you don't
>want your camber to be in spec with excessive drops then you
>wont have problems with the clearence on the control arm and
>fender..


yes my camber is well within spec. I am using the ingalls kit you are and my camber was negative about .2 degrees. The alignment guy was suprised at how perfect the camber was at such a drop. The caster and toe are also perfect at this height.




Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

hey avenger, i got a q for ya. Do you know how much clearence is between your outer edge of your upper control arm, and the part of the fender well where the control arm rides up into? I'm very curious, cause on mine with my 2" drop, i have NO more than 1/8" clearance between the two. I felt lucky when i installed the camber kit because with the kit fully adjusted as negative as it would go, it left me with perfect camber, and really no more outward adjustment because the control arm is sooooo close to the upper fender well section...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

my coilovers are maxed out

How in the hell can you go that low? I've done everything I can think of.

1.) Cut my inner fender for clearance (fully adjusted to 3 deg)
2.) Lowered my struts 1 inch where it clamps at the bottom.
3.) cut some of the stock rubber piece at top of shock 1/4" and also had to cut the metal sleeve 1/4"

I'm trying to create the most possible room so my shock has room to go up and down.

I just cant get the clearance I need. This sucks ass. I worried about my control are hitting but my main problem is my strut is bottoming out.

I had NO problems with 2 1/4 lowering springs. I might go back to those. I just wanted coilovers so I could raise it if I had to.

Can anyone show me how you can get it that low?

I have arospeed coilovers. I know they sit on top of the shock but its less than 1/2"

I also made metal washers and cut the poly inserts in half to create more space.

Should I just get some springs? and fuck these coilovers? I can say that any other will do the same. ground control would do the same thing. It's only 1/2" less on my strut when I have created over 1 1/2" more space for the strut to travel.

When I first installed the coilovers and would raise my car the spring would fall down because they were low. Now I have to jack it up so high to get my car where it is now. So I know I have made more space between the bottom and top of my strut.

Please help. I just want to go low!

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

And also there is plenty of room to go down. Like 3 more inches from where i'm at! Since my struts are lowered I can lower than normal.

The main question:

When you have your car so low you can't get a finger inbetween the wheel and fender.

HOW MUCH ROOM DOES YOU STRUT HAVE TO TRAVEL?

I can make my car that low but whats the point when every time my can shakes it makes a big noise? and I dont want my strut to break through my hood!

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

youre missing the point, if you go that low, you LOSE your struts, period. (or at least the great majority of their travel). im lowered, lots...do you think i still have suspension travel? no, what i get is, when i hit a slight bump i get a loud "THUD" that sounds like the car just fell off the wheels. this happens, oh, 30 times per trip. youll either have to deal with it or stay high. im still searching for solutions and rest assured you guys will be the first to hear when i come up with something. right now i see two options (three for you)

1)get shorter struts like mine (the konis are the shortest)
2)get drop forks (no one makes them as far as i know though)
3)raise the upper mount with a ground control plate or a replica of that

these three things grouped together should, by my estimates, give you +3 inches to +4 inches of travel, so you could lower 3-4 inches and retain stock travel. i figure 2" for the forks, 1" for the upper mount and 1" for the koni's. start saving (ive spent well over $1000 on various suspension stuff that i could easily have put towards a full tanabe coilover kit had i known it would take this much work. it sucks, i know

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

Does anyone know of a different application we can use on the FRONT that is shorter? besides konis? right now I have kyb gr-2's.

I know there is something out their. any help?

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

GR-2's are the same as stock basically. if you wanna go low you need illuminas or koni's and koni's would be the better choice

http://www.ocaddict.com

thanks beefgg for the sig

i have no idea how much room is in between the upper control arm and the fender well. All i know is that there are no dents in the fender and nothing ever bangs together up front.

And as for my struts, im sure they dont have much travel room, but i have them set to full firm ride, so they probably wont travel much that way either. The ride is a nice and firm, but not bouncy. I really like the way my car rides and corners with a 3+ inch drop and AGX struts set fully firm.

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

Chris Jones
1997 Dodge Avenger ES 5spd
"Racing Your Honda Is Like Running In The Special Olympics.....Even If You Win You're Still Retarded!!!

Does anyone know the size of the illuminas or koni's?

I'm talking the length of the strut body and then the total length with the shaft included?

Just so I can compare to stock size.


And could I just cut the bottom of the stock strut(like 3" off)and use it just as a stablizer for my coilovers? What would happen? or what is inside a stock strut(oil or what?)

I also emailed kyb to see if there is any other application the is shorter at will bolt up.

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX