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Subject: "I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads" Previous topic | Next topic
proDMDApr-27-02 01:35 AM
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#8999, "I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads"




          

needs to be detailed because it will be my first experience dealing with the breaks...im really just concerened with bleeding the brakes or compressing the pistons? do I have pistons? 97 eclipse rs TIA


AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w

  

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John99RSApr-27-02 04:44 AM
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#9000, "RE: I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Once you have the wheel off, you remove the two calliper bolts on the back of the calliper for the part that holds the pads(these bolts are long and greased up). Support this part with a zip tie or something and make sure it doesn't hang by the brake line. Then remove the other part of the calliper that also held on by two more bolts. The rotor is a floating rotor so it should just come right off. Now, you won't have to bleed anything when just changing the rotors and pads. However, you will need to compress the piston. Leave the old brake pad on the piston side in there and find yourself a good size C-clamp. Take the cap off the brake fluid resevoir and slowly compress the piston with the c-clamp while watching the fluid level. You might have to remove some fluid because the level will rise. Once the piston is compressed, install the new pads the same way the old ones were and reverse al the steps above. Add fluid if you need to. Sorry if this isn't specific enough, it's just how I remember doing it.






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proDMDApr-27-02 05:13 AM
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#9001, "RE: I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads"
In response to Reply # 1




          

Thanks...Why do you need to compress the piston and why leave on the old pad to compress it? so you just use the C clamp and squeeze? not really sure as to where to put the C clamp...I had my wheel off today and can see how the caliper will come off so that doesnt seem like it will be a problem.


AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w

  

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TeamXtremeRSApr-27-02 10:09 AM
Member since May 20th 2003
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#9002, "RE: I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads"
In response to Reply # 2


          

>Thanks...Why do you need to compress the piston and why
>leave on the old pad to compress it? so you just use the C
>clamp and squeeze? not really sure as to where to put the C
>clamp...I had my wheel off today and can see how the caliper
>will come off so that doesnt seem like it will be a problem.

You have to compress the piston because the piston will be out too far when you go to put on the new pads. The piston will travel outward as the pads wear, so the piston will be too far out to fit in new pads. Once you get the pads out, you will see the piston, and where to put the c clamp. Just put the clamp inside the piston, and the other end of the clamp on the outside of the caliper. You will see right away what to do when you get the pads off. Also, you don't have to use the inner pad with the clamp if you don't want to, its up to you. Changing pads and rotors are very simple once you know how its done...good luck..


13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)

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-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

  

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proDMDApr-27-02 02:49 PM
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#9003, "RE: I need a write-up for installing cross-drilled rotors and pads"
In response to Reply # 3




          

great... Thanks extremeRS


AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w

  

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