alright i got three in and one to go i get to the front passenger side and cant get the sway bar link off of the damper fork i've been using a 14mm boxed in wrench w/ an allen wrench am i doing something wrong
traded in my 99 2g RS for a Titanium Pearl 03 3g GT mods:AEM CAI[]energy suspension shifter bushing[]Short shifter[] MOMO f16 evo carbon/titanium shift knob[] DM Motor Mounts
#8075, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 0
put the car back on the ground. The stut towers are all fuct up because the car is in the air. Late mike
stage BIG custom mj racing turbo set up, built block.worked head,all tial components, hks evcez,spearco 992,oh yeah and a huge bottle in the trunk last run all turbo 13.8@108 no nos dyno'd at AEBS in Cali with 300+ hp to the wheels
#8076, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 0
Did you get the sway bar link nut off? And it won't come out? It should come out if the nut is off. When idid my springs, the link was kinda tight, but i just wiggled the link up and down, and it came right out. It just has to be at a certain angle. Keep trying, you'll get it. I did't lower my car to get it out either...
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#8077, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 2
His car is binding on the strut plate. What extreme guy is telling you to do is actually back the nut off and twist the stut bar till it backs off (actually extends) You can either do this or lower the car back down. Remember this bar should be set with the car on the ground. Other wise if you put the tower back on with it up in the air, you will be speading the struts out. you want them pulling in. late mike
stage BIG custom mj racing turbo set up, built block.worked head,all tial components, hks evcez,spearco 992,oh yeah and a huge bottle in the trunk last run all turbo 13.8@108 no nos dyno'd at AEBS in Cali with 300+ hp to the wheels
#8078, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 3
no i cant get the damn thing off that the prob
traded in my 99 2g RS for a Titanium Pearl 03 3g GT mods:AEM CAI[]energy suspension shifter bushing[]Short shifter[] MOMO f16 evo carbon/titanium shift knob[] DM Motor Mounts
#8079, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 3
>His car is binding on the strut plate. What extreme guy is >telling you to do is actually back the nut off and twist the >stut bar till it backs off (actually extends) You can either >do this or lower the car back down. Remember this bar should >be set with the car on the ground. Other wise if you put the >tower back on with it up in the air, you will be speading >the struts out. you want them pulling in. late mike
What are you talkin about man! He is not haveing a prob with the strut tower, but the sway bar link that attaches to the damper fork, right? Maybe i'm not getting something here. I'm not too sure what you mean by the strut tower, but that doesnt come out, the strut/spring assemble does, and it can only go back in a certain way. I had to kind of twist the strut assmebly a little for the strut to line up and go back down into the notches in the damper fork, maybe thats what he is talking about. It shouldn't matter if the car is up or down to get the sway bar end link out of the fork, I had no probs whatso ever with my whole front end in the air. I do belive the WHOLE front end has to be in the air, not just ONE side either. If you have just one side up, then there WILL be a problem with getting off the end link from the fork. I think thats what the prob is. Maybe not, I think i'm just confused what his prob is i guess...
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#8081, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 6
boy did we fuck up here. he's talking abot the 14mm bolt that the sway bar bolts up to the fork with. Well the car must still be cocked. Is one side up and the other down? Plus you will actually need 2 14mm wrenches to get that off, one on the back side of the bar on the boot and one on the nut. Its kinda hard to see but slip the 14mm wrench back there and it will slide in. Sorry about the confusion guys. late mike
stage BIG custom mj racing turbo set up, built block.worked head,all tial components, hks evcez,spearco 992,oh yeah and a huge bottle in the trunk last run all turbo 13.8@108 no nos dyno'd at AEBS in Cali with 300+ hp to the wheels
#8082, "RE: NEED help w/ spring install" In response to Reply # 7
also those sway bar links are going to be in ther pretty tight with the assembly extended like it is being up in the air.. try putting another jack under the bottom of that assembly.. and using it to raise it up so that the stress is relieved from the sway bar.. then that bolt and linkage should come out with ease.
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He is not haveing a prob with the strut tower, but the sway bar link that attaches to the damper fork, right? Maybe i'm not getting something here. I'm not too sure what you mean by the strut tower, but that doesnt come out, the strut/spring assemble does, and it can only go back in a certain way. I had to kind of twist the strut assmebly a little for the strut to line up and go back down into the notches in the damper fork, maybe thats what he is talking about. It shouldn't matter if the car is up or down to get the sway bar end link out of the fork, I had no probs whatso ever with my whole front end in the air. I do belive the WHOLE front end has to be in the air, not just ONE side either. If you have just one side up, then there WILL be a problem with getting off the end link from the fork. I think thats what the prob is. Maybe not, I think i'm just confused what his prob is i guess...
