I installed my Eibach Pro-Kits & KYB AGX's on Thursday, & got help installing my UDP on Friday..and ever since it I got the UDP installed I started noticing that when I start the car moving from a stop I hear a clunk/pop sound once. I'm not sure if it does it when I'm changing gears because of the loudness of the car (even w/ the stock exhaust I have). I can't tell exactly where it's coming from though. At first I thought my CAI might have been loose on the throttle body, maybe causing an intake backfire...but it's on there tight. Any ideas on what might be causing the sound?

ALSO...I can't seem to get the bolt through the black piece that holds it to the front right strut. At first I couldn't get either of them through, but was finally able to get the left one through yesterday. Are the AGX's bigger than stock struts? And what can I do to try and get the bolt through?

Thanks, Richard (97 ESi)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/main.htm

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CURRENT MODS:
AEM Cold Air Intake || Magnacor 8.5 Ignition Wires || NKG Spark Plugs || Sylvania Cool Blue Headlights || Cobra Eyes Windshield Washer Blue LED Lights || Nokya Motorsports Sport Pedal Set || Front & Rear Strut Bars || Eibach Springs Pro-Kit || KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks/Struts || AF/X Underdrive Pulley

IN MY ROOM:
OBX Racing Sports - B5 Bomb Tunable Muffler

IN THE MAIL:
Bored Throttle Body || Pacesetter - Monza Exhaust System || Energy Suspension - Motor Mount Inserts || Stock CD/Cassette/Radio player

Thanks, Richard -- 97 ESi
16.46 @ 86.03mph

http://www.ourformerselves.com/
http://www.cardomain.com/id/talonipse/

AEM COLD AIR INTAKE | PACESETTER 2.5" MONZA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM | OBX B5 MUFFLER | ENERGY SUSPENSION FRONT & REAR MOTOR MOUNTS | 18X7" ENKEI RSF2 WHEELS W/ NITTO NT 450 215/40Z TIRES | GOLDLINE LOWERING SPRINGS | KYB AGX STRUTS | INGALLS FRONT & REAR CAMBER ADJUSTERS | ALPINE CDA-9807 RECIEVER | ALPINE MRD-M300 AMP | ALPINE SWR-1041D 10" TYPE R SUB | Q-LOGIC QLH-.6510SX ENCLOSURE | STINGER HPM 8GA AMP KIT | DAYTONA BLUE PAINT JOB | IMPULL R34 FRONT BUMPER | BLITZ REAR BUMPER | BLITZ SIDE SKIRTS | ECLIPSE TURBO WING | PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS (BLACK/BLUE) | EURO ALTEZZA TAILLIGHTS | STREET GLOW SG-201 NEO-BLUE NEON UNDER CAR KIT | SPAL AMENITY SHAVED DOOR KIT | REVERSE NITE GLOW GUAGES | OBX SHORT THROW SHIFTER | SYMBORSKIT SHIFTER KIT | AFTERMARKET BLUE SHIFTER | NOKYA FOOT PEDALS

I just went out driving to check out where the sound was coming from, and it sounds like it's from the front drivers side...and when I was crusing at only 15mph in 2nd w/o my foot on the accelerator, when I pushed the accelerator it made the clunk/pop sound still, so it's not just from a standing still position. Does this info help?

Thanks, Richard (97 ESi)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/main.htm

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CURRENT MODS:
AEM Cold Air Intake || Magnacor 8.5 Ignition Wires || NKG BKR6EVX-11 Spark Plugs || Sylvania Cool Blue Headlights || Cobra Eyes Windshield Washer Blue LED Lights || Nokya Motorsports Sport Pedal Set || Front & Rear Strut Bars || Eibach Springs Pro-Kit || KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks/Struts || AF/X Underdrive Pulley

IN MY ROOM:
OBX Racing Sports - B5 Bomb Tunable Muffler

IN THE MAIL:
Bored Throttle Body || Pacesetter - Monza Exhaust System || Energy Suspension - Motor Mount Inserts || Stock CD/Cassette/Radio player

Thanks, Richard -- 97 ESi
16.46 @ 86.03mph

http://www.ourformerselves.com/
http://www.cardomain.com/id/talonipse/

AEM COLD AIR INTAKE | PACESETTER 2.5" MONZA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM | OBX B5 MUFFLER | ENERGY SUSPENSION FRONT & REAR MOTOR MOUNTS | 18X7" ENKEI RSF2 WHEELS W/ NITTO NT 450 215/40Z TIRES | GOLDLINE LOWERING SPRINGS | KYB AGX STRUTS | INGALLS FRONT & REAR CAMBER ADJUSTERS | ALPINE CDA-9807 RECIEVER | ALPINE MRD-M300 AMP | ALPINE SWR-1041D 10" TYPE R SUB | Q-LOGIC QLH-.6510SX ENCLOSURE | STINGER HPM 8GA AMP KIT | DAYTONA BLUE PAINT JOB | IMPULL R34 FRONT BUMPER | BLITZ REAR BUMPER | BLITZ SIDE SKIRTS | ECLIPSE TURBO WING | PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS (BLACK/BLUE) | EURO ALTEZZA TAILLIGHTS | STREET GLOW SG-201 NEO-BLUE NEON UNDER CAR KIT | SPAL AMENITY SHAVED DOOR KIT | REVERSE NITE GLOW GUAGES | OBX SHORT THROW SHIFTER | SYMBORSKIT SHIFTER KIT | AFTERMARKET BLUE SHIFTER | NOKYA FOOT PEDALS

I don't think you should drive around when you're missing that bolt (I think you're talking about the one that goes horizontally at the bottom of the strut right?). If this sound happens when you rev the motor, I would think it's motor related, or maybe it's just causing it to vibrate part of the suspension...I'm not sure...

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

Yeah, it's that horizontal bolt. I've screwed it in far enough so that it should hold the strut to it for the time being. I've revved my engine and it doesn't do it. It's just when I start the car moving, or when I'm crusing and then put my foot on the gas.


Thanks, Richard (97 ESi)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/main.htm

----------------------------------------------------------

CURRENT MODS:
AEM Cold Air Intake || Magnacor 8.5 Ignition Wires || NKG BKR6EVX-11 Spark Plugs || Sylvania Cool Blue Headlights || Cobra Eyes Windshield Washer Blue LED Lights || Nokya Motorsports Sport Pedal Set || Front & Rear Strut Bars || Eibach Springs Pro-Kit || KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks/Struts || AF/X Underdrive Pulley

IN MY ROOM:
OBX Racing Sports - B5 Bomb Tunable Muffler

IN THE MAIL:
Bored Throttle Body || Pacesetter - Monza Exhaust System || Energy Suspension - Motor Mount Inserts || Stock CD/Cassette/Radio player

Thanks, Richard -- 97 ESi
16.46 @ 86.03mph

http://www.ourformerselves.com/
http://www.cardomain.com/id/talonipse/

AEM COLD AIR INTAKE | PACESETTER 2.5" MONZA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM | OBX B5 MUFFLER | ENERGY SUSPENSION FRONT & REAR MOTOR MOUNTS | 18X7" ENKEI RSF2 WHEELS W/ NITTO NT 450 215/40Z TIRES | GOLDLINE LOWERING SPRINGS | KYB AGX STRUTS | INGALLS FRONT & REAR CAMBER ADJUSTERS | ALPINE CDA-9807 RECIEVER | ALPINE MRD-M300 AMP | ALPINE SWR-1041D 10" TYPE R SUB | Q-LOGIC QLH-.6510SX ENCLOSURE | STINGER HPM 8GA AMP KIT | DAYTONA BLUE PAINT JOB | IMPULL R34 FRONT BUMPER | BLITZ REAR BUMPER | BLITZ SIDE SKIRTS | ECLIPSE TURBO WING | PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS (BLACK/BLUE) | EURO ALTEZZA TAILLIGHTS | STREET GLOW SG-201 NEO-BLUE NEON UNDER CAR KIT | SPAL AMENITY SHAVED DOOR KIT | REVERSE NITE GLOW GUAGES | OBX SHORT THROW SHIFTER | SYMBORSKIT SHIFTER KIT | AFTERMARKET BLUE SHIFTER | NOKYA FOOT PEDALS

yeah i wouldnt drive without that bolt in there either...there is enough play in the strut fork to cause it to slip out. that bolt is the only thing keeping your strut from falling, putting a hole through your CV boot, then causing the entire front suspension to fall until either your oil pan or body hits the ground or your inner fender falls on top of your tire...and trust me you dont want that to happen. best case scenario youll be paying for a new lower fork ($98) a new upper control arm, a new tire, and possibly a new fender/bumper and side skirt. i kow what you mean though, its hard to get that bolt to thread because it wants to go in crooked. best thing i can tell you is keep trying and youll get it

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL