#688, "Skid thru Intesection - need brakes or tires?"
Hey guys, yesterday I was about to hit an intersection that turned yellow, and I slammed on the brakes since there are red light cameras and I'm paranoid. My car ended up skidding about one car length into the intersection and left about 10 to 15 feet or rubber on the pavement. I have Dunlop SP8000 tires with Axxis Metalmaster pads. Is there a way to prevent this or is it just due to driver error and no ABS? Would the AEM big brake kit help, or would it just make things lock up even quicker if I were to slam on the brakes hard? Thanks
#689, "a lighter foot on the pedal would have helped out" In response to Reply # 0
press the brake pedal to the point where the tires start breaking loose then back the pressure off the slightest bit. This is the shortest stopping distance you will get. It almost sounds like short bursts of slight chirps as you constantly try and find that maximum amount of pedal pressure before the tires break free. Better rotors/pads do you no good in this situation where you have enough power to lock them up. I have the tires you have and they stop great and are plenty sticky. Stainless steel brake lines would probably help with the feel of the pedal. I have much more control over my braking pressure and the application is firmer and more gradual. The old rubber hoses made my pedal feel kind of spongy with less feel.
if you race an autoX you will eventually get the braking down...if not, you will have lots of flat spots...hehe
#690, "RE: Skid thru Intesection - need brakes or tires?" In response to Reply # 0
Deano's got it. You can also become your own ABS, and modulate the pedal as you feel it lock up back off and then apply the brakes again. Locking up is very bad for you r tire life.
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#691, "RE: Skid thru Intesection - need brakes or tires?" In response to Reply # 2
Thanks I think I just panicked because of those cameras. I have NEVER locked up the tires like that ever before. I did try to hit the max braking point but when I realized I wasn't gonna stop in time, I guess I just slammed it to the floor (initial panic reaction).
Strange thing is, now my brakes don't squeak anymore. before, they always used to squeak at stop signs and feel kind of unsmooth as I came to a complete stop...
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#694, "RE: Skid thru Intesection - need brakes or tires?" In response to Reply # 5
Hey I was just getting ready to post the question of , Why do my brakes make that horribly annoying sqeek when I stop at a stop sign or stop light? And how do I make it stop?
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#698, "Before my new brakes......" In response to Reply # 6
Before I got my Powerslots and metal master pads all my rotors were warped and my front pads were down to the sensors, I was locking the tires up all the time at that point. Drove that way for about 2 months and got my new stuff. Now they never lock up, tested it the other day when someone pulled out in front of me. I slammed them on at about 50 mph and they didnt lock up. They did smell like hell for a little while after that. Before I toasted the old rotors and had the stock pads that were still good they didnt lock up then either. Do you have all wheel disc or just front with rear drum??? Happy motoring and be careful.
#699, "Does MORE stopping power = easier to lock up" In response to Reply # 10
Hey one quick question. Doesn't more stopping power make it easier to lock up. It has more force to stop the tires, so if I were to brake TOO hard (due to driver error), wouldn't it be easier to lock up with the big brakes?
#700, "More braking power means shorter stopping distance" In response to Reply # 11
if comparing stock components to aftermarket on the same tires/rims/struts/springs/road conditions. IMHO the upgraded components(rotors/pads/lines/new fluid) allow me to have better control over my braking power. They are more gradually applied and resist fading when they heat up. Even in a panic stop I can modulate the brakes to that magical point where the tires are about to break free of the pavement. I used to have this spongy feeling pedal(stillen pads with factory rotors/lines) that was difficult to modulate on the autoX track. I really notice the difference on wet conditions where my skill(I am not that good, just trying to make a point..hehe) is put to the test. I also locked up my front brakes rather easily, because I could not find that sweet spot, just before the skid.
One more thing. It may be in my head, but the front of my car actually dives a bit more in heavy braking. My factory setup did not dive as much, locked up and then skidded.
Maybe the key to upgraded brakes is better brake modulation equals more stopping power without locking up the tires. I read the latest grassroots magazine with the brake article. I really enjoyed it. I do not believe everything I read, but they had some very good points.
#701, "I read an article about how you should UPGRADE all four at one time" In response to Reply # 12
I remember reading a REALLY LONG article about big brake upgrades, and how you should do all four at once. It said that if you only do the fronts, it changes the distribution of stopping power NEGATIVELY. Meaning the fronts will be braking a lot harder than the rear, and it gave all these explanations as to how this could lead to WORSE braking performance. It said it disrupts the balance of the vehicle, and that may be the "diving" feeling you are talking about. This article was speficially about DSM's and it basically said that you feel your car is braking better, but when they did tests, there was no improvement in stopping distance. It even got worse by a few feet...
Basically, I think what they were explaining was that if the fronts brake really hard, the rears can't break as hard, and somehow the rear brakes end up being less effective than stock. Anyone have a link to the article or know what I'm talking about? Thanks.
#702, "one clarification" In response to Reply # 13
What I meant when I posted the front dives more is: The decelerating G-forces I experience are greater than my previous setup. The car dives a bit more in front, but tracks better overall(with my new rear discs). The distances are shorter and I have better control over the braking force that is applied.
I have the stock GS-T rear rotors and they do not get near as hot as the fronts. Added cooling would not help in this application. If I install a bias valve, then I may have to think about changing the rotors.
I am not an expert, all I can post on is my own experience. I have read many braking articles and they tend to compare apples to oranges when doing their tests. I wish they would have the same car and just swap one component at a time and see how that affects the stopping distance or the difficulty to modulate the brakes properly.
If you find that article, could you post it? I am always open to new ideas and approaches.
#703, "RE: one clarification" In response to Reply # 14
whats up? I'm new at this posting thing but here it goes... Now I had the same problem when a big bus cut in front of me, and my last car had ABS and I screeched like HELL without ABS in my Eclipse. Now is there a way I could add ABS to my ride? I have the light on my dash board and I think when I get my stage 2 kit from Wyatt it's really going to help!!
#704, "I agree DeanoD, Eclipse804..." In response to Reply # 12
...more brake power does make it easier to lock your brakes but it brings the level of braking certainty closer to the level of control, making it easier to modulate. Optimum stopping power doesn't come from locked brakes and slidding but preventing lock up and keeping it on that edge while maintaining traction. Lockup is a loss of traction which is, obviously, why you slide. ABS enables automatic modulation and prevents brake locking. On ABS you just stomp the brake and the modulation takes over, not to mention it is faster than a modulating foot.
Skrilla '97 Base Talon NA "Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment" "Peace and Turbo Grease"
*Skrilla "Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me" Talon: 1st 2.4L '97 Prelude '04 350Z
Originally posted by YourInMyMirror95GS dick teaser's should be rounded up and shot in the forehead
Originally posted by etx Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!
Originally posted by Dark0ne Thanks. Now excuse me while i fuck your sister.
