I will post/send Juan complete instructions and parts listings at a later time. I did not take any pictures, because I was in a pinch for time. Pictures are really not needed though and this was a straight forward swap over.
I seated in the rear pads last night and will be gentle on the brakes(complete front and rear)for another week or so. I would like to say one thing.....I now know what we have been missing from those GS rides.....LESS BRAKE FADE AND MORE STOPPING POWER. I am sure this depends on your type of pads, but the rear disc does help the car stop much better. Braking is also much more controlled going into an apex and it is much easier to pick your line. I only did this a couple of times coming home and did not get on it hard.
This is a good upgrade and is much more than looks. If you can get the parts used, it is worth the money. Here is a complete parts list of my brakes, so you can compare apples to apples.
Front: KVR Performance crossdrilled/Cad plated rotors(stock size) stock calipers, Hawk HP plus pads, RRE stainless lines, russell speedbleeders
Rear: Stock GS-T rotors and calipers, KVR Performance carbon/kevlar pads, RRE stainless lines, russell speedbleeders
Fluid: completely flushed with Wagner severe condition Dot 5.1
I actually did this conversion and there is lots of misinformation out there on what we need and do not need. Thanks, goes to those guys who helped me get through this and to the ASOG people who gave me a leg up on the install/parts instructions.
That sounds good dude. I'm so against this because it adds weight to the car and a parasitic drag but the later you can brake into a corner the more speed you can take into it. It really is a practiced art but rear discs/pads certainly help prevent fade and more controlled braking, I'm interested as well so send me something as soon as possible. I also have the benefit of Phattalon in my area to give me a helping hand. Let us know again soon how the setup is working out.
Skrilla '97 Base Talon NA "Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment" "Peace and Turbo Grease"
*Skrilla "Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me" Talon: 1st 2.4L '97 Prelude '04 350Z
Originally posted by YourInMyMirror95GS dick teaser's should be rounded up and shot in the forehead
Originally posted by etx Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!
Originally posted by Dark0ne Thanks. Now excuse me while i fuck your sister.
That does sound sweet man. Send me the info too please and what it cost you, if you don't mind. Also, I am doing sway bars on my car soon and was wanting to know your set up. You got your parts from Nprco right? Do you have the GS bars, or the GS-T bars? Let me know....thanks man.
#612, "I have a stock GS-T swaybar setup" In response to Reply # 2
19mm front and 15mm rear w/energy suspension swaybar bushings
Front: GS-T is 19mm, GS is 18mm and RS is 16mm Rear: GS-T is 15mm, GS is 13mm and RS is the big 0mm
Do not forget to get the correct bushings for the swaybar. The front and rear swaybar bushing attachment clamps are the same for all three sizes in front and the same for the two sizes in the rear. The bushing is what is different. The larger the bar, the larger the hole in the bushing is. This also helps reduce flex in the bar.
I got my front used GS-T bar from allmitsubishi.com for $20 (included endlinks that I did not need but will probably use after this autoX season...LOL). I think a new GS-T bar from my local mitsu dealer was $45(approx) with 20% discount. If you have to mailorder it, norco mitsu has good prices.
See the post in the announcement section that has the rear drum to rear disc conversion. Now that I have completed it, our local members want to do it. I would buy the parts now if you plan on doing it in the near future.
#616, "RE: 2G RS rear drum - GS-T rear disc conversion complete" In response to Reply # 5
Oracle, the only advantage to drum brakes is weight. They weigh less than disc brakes. But the disc brakes have better stopping power, and will stop in a better distance than drums on the exact same car.
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#617, "Does anyone know exactly where our brake" In response to Reply # 6
bias valve/proportioning valve is located on our car? GS-T/GS/RS all have the same 80%/20% valve. I am going to add a Russell or Earl adjustable valve and need to know how much room I will have to work with. I guess I could follow the reservoir down, but thought someone might know off hand.
A friend of mine races late model nascar and he sets his to 50/50 during dry conditions and 80/20 for wet. I am thinking of tying 60/40 for dry autoX track condtions and 70/30 for everyday street. Let the fun begin.
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
1. Remove center console in car to have access to parking brake cables
2. Remove airbag ecm(4bolts) and disconnect the E-brake cables(2each).
3. Remove cable retaining clamps about 5 inches back, underneath the carpet. There is a retaining block that holds the retaining clamps and that stays in place. The bolt head is 12mm and is difficult to reach. I cut a slit in the carpet (3 inches long) to help me gain access. Lift the carpet with one hand and ratchet with the other. Use a 12mm socket with 3/8 ratchet. When the bolts are out, spread the clamps and remove them. You will have to replace them when the new cables are hooked up. The cables are now free to be pulled out.
4. Raise car on lift or jack one side at a time, using floor jack.
5. Remove rear wheel and drum cover(screw a bolt into it to loosen). Disconnect rear brake line clamp at the knuckle and at the(10mm) b-nut fitting in the forward part of the wheel well. Slide the retaining clip out(pull/tap toward you with a pliers and hammer if necessary). You will not need to reconnect the new brake line to the knuckle assemby. The new line goes directly from the caliper to the b-nut fitting.
6. Remove the hub assembly by taking out the 4 bolts that retain it and them the emergency brake/drum brake assembly will come right off.
7. Remove the three retaining clamps that hold the emergency brake cable to the underneath of the car. Pull the cable out from underneath the car. It might take some extra pulling to get it released from the sealed grommet plug.
8. Install the new parking brake assembly so the caliper mounting bolt holes line up to position the left caliper in the 10 oclock position and the right caliper in the 2 oclock position. The emergency brake cables (from the bottom of the assembly) will also point to the first mounting clamp.
9. Install the hub(4 bolts) in the same position it came off. There is a slightly rounded side (internally) and four flat sides. I am not sure if it makes a big difference, but do it anyway.
10. Push the parking brake cable into the grommet hole(have fun) then connect the cable/mounting clamp from inside the car. I just stuck the cable in the mounting hole, connected the end to the E-brake T-bar assembly and then installed that nasty retaining clamp under the carpet.
11. Install the rest of the clamps for the cable under the car.
12. Install the new rotor, slide the caliper over it and tighten down the two bolts. Make sure your brake hose and bleed screw(8mm) is already installed on the caliper. Connect your brake hose then slide the line retaining clip back in and tap with a hammer until it locks into place. Do not force it or you will bend the clip.
13. This side is done. Now do the other....this one will go much faster...LOL
14. When both sides are done, put in new fluid and bleed brakes. I recommend buying 1 quart of brake fluid and flushing the whole system. The old fluid will look milky and the new fluid is clear. Install a small vacum tube over the bleeder and pump fluid into a can. You can bleed with only one person if you have speedbleeders and do not have to tighten down bleeder between pumps. I do suggest someone else to monitor the fluid coming out and then you will know when the old fluid is completely out.
15. Tighten down bleed screw and clean off any brake fluid on painted surfaces. I suggest using Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 fluid. There are even some high temp Dot 3 fluids available that will not brake the bank. Ford heavy duty dot 3 comes highly recommended. I used Wagner severe duty Dot 5.1.....one quart will take care of an entire car. Remember to fill reservoir before it gets empty and then retighten the cap down before applying pressure on the brake pedal.
16. Put wheels back on and attempt to spin freely. I know the pads will rub slightly, but you are looking for proper freedom of movement from parking brake assembly. If too tight or too loose adjust it at the T-block assembly where the cables are attached in the center console. I did not have to adjust anything when I did this.
17. The parking brake is much harder to engage than with regular drum brakes. It is also an instantanous engagement. What I mean is.....it is not gradual like before and to watch out doing any e-braking slides. You WILL lock up the rear end and spin out......a friend in his GS-T told me this.
18. Install airbag ecm (4 bolts) and center console. If you do not know how to take out your center console, do not attempt to do this brake job....hehehe.
19. Drive car slowly and pull your e-brake handle and make sure it works properly. The feel is totally different and does take more effort to engage it.
20. Seat your brake pads in properly. If you need directions, just ask. If you are using a high coefficient pad(performance street) they tend to squeal with light braking applications. Medium to heavy they do not make any noise. The price we have to pay for killer brakes.
#621, "RE: Here are the instructions" In response to Reply # 11
Deano, I'm very very impressed. I wanna do this so bad! I have so many things on my wish list right now, it aint even funny!
This has to be top 3 for me though! Way to go man! I know I'll probably need someoen with a bit more brake expertise to give me a hand, but the job looks very doable! I really need to see some of those retaining clamps and the e-brake setup to get a feel of everything.
But, it looks like a GREAT weekend project!
Any extra tools you recommend? You noted before about havging to replace the clamps holding some of the e-brake appratus after removing the retaining bolt. Does it mean they're reuseable but need to be put back on? Or you need new clamps entirely altogether?
Why don't you just come up to Illinois and give Michael and me a hand doing this! LOL
Jason 98' Eagle Talon ESi-T Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)
#622, "tool list and e-brake cable clamps" In response to Reply # 12
Tool list: 8mm bleed screw, 10mm brake hose b-nut fitting, 12mm for all e-brake cable retaining clamps(each side: one under carpet and three that follow the cable to the wheel)(use a socket/ratchet with 6 inch extension to get to these), 14mm socket with extension for the caliper and hub mounting bolts and that is it.
I reused the retaining clamps under the carpet. I used the retaining clamps that came with the new(used actually) parking brake cables already on it. I did have to swap my old clamp on my drum brake cable(middle retaining clamp)on the right side. It was slightly different on the GS-T cables.....no big deal. You could actually swap all the clamps on the new cable with your old ones...in case they do not come with any.
Nobody wants the old drum brake kits unless they were in a car wreck. I cannot even give them to Dan at Allmitsu...LOL
Hope this helps you out a bit more....BTW: I think he sold a couple of the kits already and anyone who wants one, should buy it soon. When these parts are gone, he will have to pay more for individual pieces or wait till another wrecked GS/GS-t comes in. Good Luck
#623, "RE: Here are the instructions" In response to Reply # 12
Box showed up today with all the hardware. Tomorrow I'm going to clean everything up and paint my calipers and maybe the dust shield, have to see if it needs it once I clean em up. Jason I'll make sure I let you know when I plan on doing this... since we have such lovely weather now... I have the Speedbleeders and I talked to RRE today and they shipped the Stainless lines today. Probably the weekend before we do it I'll pull the front calipers and paint them, so everything is set for us to go.
But Deano if you want to take a drive up... you'd be more than welcome to join in the fun.
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#624, "I grew up in Wisconsin and....." In response to Reply # 14
graduated high school in Rockford, IL. I did make it up that way during Thanksgiving and the weather was fairly nice. I have a hard time working outdoors these days(cold weather) and am confined to work on my car in a three bay garage with two lifts. The only downside is that I have to earn my keep I also have to do well this autoX season or S&A will rip the windshield decal right off...LOL
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
