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Top 2GNT Technical Handling/Suspension topic #3858
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Subject: "Auto Cross Suspension" Previous topic | Next topic
JenNov-01-01 10:40 AM
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#3858, "Auto Cross Suspension"


          

Anybody doing Auto Cross?

Well, it seems like I'm finally getting a Spyder GS-t to turn into a show car and so instead of using the NT for a show car we wanna set it up for Auto Cross.
Right now all the suspension mods it has are H&R Race Springs with a 2 1/4" drop. Cody is getting some cross drilled and slotted rotors and better brakes for it. So, all I wanna know is what struts and shocks and bars and other stuff I should get for Auto Crossing


Jenni & Cody
'95 Talon Esi
'90 Talon TSi AWD (11.52 sec)
'91 Eclipse GSX (14.22 sec, the Beater...)
'91 Eclipse GSX



_________________________________________
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T
1995 Eagle Talon Esi
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

  

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ModeratorVX100Nov-01-01 11:52 AM
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#3859, "RE: Auto Cross Suspension"
In response to Reply # 0




          

Go with Tokico Illuminas (or other Tokicos)

I like the KYB AGX but any shock from KYB (GR2, AGX, GAB) will hit the bumpstops (at least on the front) with a 2 1/4 inch drop. I've know a few people who have gotten AGX for the rear and Illuminas for the front. (I think because the AGXs are a bit cheaper so they bought AGXs, and they were tired of hitting the bumpstops so they just changed the fronts to Tokicos)

I'm not sure what bars to get, but for brake pads, get porterfield pads! The guys up in New England DSM who autocross the most (Fedja, Charles Moss) and others (including me) swear by them.

If it's going to still be street driven, go for the R4S pads (they are still good for the street but work very well, this is what I have and they are expensive, but worth it). If you don't mind chewing up a set of rotors with each set of pads and want the best braking you can get, then get the R4 or R4E pads.

All porterfield pads are expensive though, but I think they are worth it. For regular driving or even some autocross a metal masters set would be fine, but I like the good stuff

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.589 @ 88.22 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

  

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ModeratorjuanNov-01-01 02:16 PM
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#3860, "RE: Auto Cross Suspension"
In response to Reply # 0


          


Best thing to do is figure out what class you want to go for. Some mods will not be legal, so you'll have to tailor the car for that. Or, just go and have a good time!

Another thing to look into is "open track" days. See if there is any road coarses nearby you and see if they have any on their schedule. Let me tell you, nothing is more exciting than running flat out on a dedicated racetrack! (the spins are fun too

juan

  

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KoryNov-01-01 03:01 PM
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#3861, "RE: Auto Cross Suspension"
In response to Reply # 2


          

HADES WHERE U AT??? merlin auto Xs and he's suspension is really cool. much oversteer! i plan to do it soon too. i have:

prokits
illuminas
ST sways
stbs
lower rear tie bars

i jess need to get some racing rims... those mods are gonna put me into a tuff bracket Street Prepared i think



Kory
fasteclipse@cisco.com
aim sn: dukmahsik
Happy Honda Hunting!

The Original 2GNT []D[][]Y[][]D


96 RS


97 GSX

  

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HadesOmegaNov-01-01 04:27 PM
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#3862, "RE: Auto Cross Suspension"
In response to Reply # 3


          

Well first thing you want do to prepare your suspension is to try and get rid of understeer. Understeer is your enemy in autox because we use the FF drivetrain. When you turn the wheel the car doens't imediately go where you want to go. They say a good thing to do is to take off your front sway bar and leave the back swaybar in there, so you get mad oversteer. That way the back will whip around a corner easily. it might make you spin out though Also if you have adjustable dampening make the front softer than the back, it'll also give you more oversteer.

Haha I shouldn't be the one to give advice though, hehe I erm always get last place autox. With all the racing technique I've learned I still can't pull off a good time.


Grrr it's gonna eat you up!
___________________
95' Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | Autometer Bezel Gauge Holder | Modified A/F Ratio Gauge | B&M Super Oil Cooler | Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings | JAZ Oil Catchcan | 3" Magnaflow Muffler | 3" Car Sound Catalytic Converter | 3" Downpipe-back piping | HKS Air Filter | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | HKS Standard Blow off Valve | HKS TYPE 1 Turbo Timer | Star Stage 1 T3/T04E BB Turbo Kit | Starion Front Mount Intercooler | Schroth Autocontrol 3-Point Harness | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |
Performance b4 Lookz, a car can only be as fast as it's driver! ^_^


http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

  

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