Hey, guys. I've been looking into what has been causing me to wear out my tires in the back way to quickly. I've even had a shop check my suspension components while doing an alignment, and have been told everything is fine. I'm not convinced, and believe my rear trailing arms are shot. My car feels unsettled during highway drives. Nothing unsafe, but my car does not feel planted, almost like an older MR2, around turns. Is it possible to have the RTAs go bad, but not make any noise and have the alignment check out ok? And, not trying to sound dumb, but if the RTAs need replacement, will I have to get my car realigned? Thanks.

I guess it could potentially happen under certain conditions, I.E Highway driving, I would look into it, they can still be in alignment with the Toe & Camber, but the joint still damaged, just over bumps, humps, lumps, etc...

I would look into it and see for yourself how much play they have, I like to use a crowbar for this, & the 9 & 3 o'clock on the wheel to see for play, if you don't feel like taking the tire off.

I would start there man, My 0.02 cents.

Jeff

Originally posted by 740TurboBrick

"Dsms run on Gasoline, DSMers run on Alcohol...Id bring a tank to refuel the DSMers..."

It is more likely a bushing is bad than the arm. The arms are just steel bars. Closely inspect the bushing at the top of your knuckle for deterioration.

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2012 2500HD LML

I thought the bars and bushings were one unit, with bump-stops on either side. In that case, it's going to be alot cheaper than I thought. Being that the car is a 95, I think it's safe to say the bushings are gone. Will I need to realign the car once I replace the bushings?

Another stupid question: I was looking at the CAPS and there are two trailing arm bushing stoppers on both sides of the trailing arms. Do they just act as protection from debris or are they integral to the function of the trailing arms? Basically what I'm asking is can I reuse them or should they be replaced as well? Sorry for questions, but suspensions are definitely a weak point for me and something I'm trying to learn more about.

What stopper are you talking about?

EDIT: I think I see what you are talking about. Why not just replace the bushings with some urethane ones? Prothane makes them. I think when the Prothane replacements are in, you do not use any of the stock parts.

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2012 2500HD LML

Part numbers 41324B and 41324C. I want to replace them with OEM since this car is just a daily and I'm currently saving money (or at least trying to) for a rust free 2GNT to be my fun car.

Well, I ordered my trailing arms and hardware yesterday. For haha's I went to a shop to get a quote on labor and was told it would cost $280 (without an alignment). They were trying to tell me it's a complicated process and it takes 2 hours per side, and that's a best case scenario. I called bullshit, asking how difficult is it to change a part that is easily reached and held together by two bolts. Within a couple of seconds( with a bit of stuttering and a look deer give right before they meet a speeding truck), the quote dropped to $240 (and the excuse was that he looked up the wrong info, even though he didn't go back on the computer a second time). So, needless to say, I'm changing my arms myself at a co-worker's house (air compressor and tools galore) and saving myself a heap of cash. All I'll have to spend is $70 for an alignment. I can live with that. It may be hot outside, but not hot enough to spend that kind of cash.

Do you have access to a air compressor and impact gun. It'll take 5-10 mintues per side. If not try get a cordless impact from harbor freight. I changed the same trailing arms on my brothers camaro. Different car but its same procedure.

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1995 gs Saved from the crusher
1998 RS gone to(Dsm Heaven)
1997 gs gone to Dsm heaven

If you bothered to read his post, he already addressed that

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2012 2500HD LML

Just full of funny post's today on the forum!

I think he's got it covered though, Sounds like he's got the right attitude about it anyways.

Jeff.

Originally posted by 740TurboBrick

"Dsms run on Gasoline, DSMers run on Alcohol...Id bring a tank to refuel the DSMers..."

I think the funny thing about this is the fact that shops will try and charge people way too much for simple jobs. Honestly, I would have let someone work on my car had the price been fair. I've been working too much and too hard in a plant that is way too hot (102 degrees and 35 percent humidity for the past two weeks), but being quoted that high, and being a grease monkey anyway, I figured doing it myself would just make more sense.

Figured I post an update. I replaced the trailing arms and I needed to wait until yesterday to get the alignment. Well, the alignment was better, but still off. The main mechanic/owner of the shp I took it to was called over to look at the car, since it made no sense that tow was at .75 on the rear leftside. The spindle ended up being bent. There was no visible damage. The only way to realized the issue was to physically measure the spindle. Which makes sense,since I got hit there by a drunk lady in a Saab a few years back. I'm not mad at my situation, but the fact that the spindle wasn't changes when it needed to be and the fact no other shop informed me of this issue and argued with me when I mentioned that it felt like te toe was off. At least I didn't have to pay for the alignment, an all I have to do is bring it back on Friday to get it all straightened out. Seven shops in two states, and I finally find an honest one. ...Wow...

Well, being that I'm going to waste time trying to find a used rear spindle with a bushing that's not dry rotted, I figured I'd be better off getting a used one and putting in polyurethane bushings. I saw a rear control arm bushing kit from Energy Suspension (5.3119R) and I just want to know if anyone bought that kit and if it includes the bushings for the rear spindles. Again, I'm just trying to keep this car road worthy while I save up for another one, so I'm not looking to buy the master bushing kit.

You mean the knuckle? There really is not a technical spindle on our car.

As far as Energy Susp kit, not sure about the contents. Have you contacted them and asked?

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2012 2500HD LML

Well, some list it as a spindle, some as a knuckle. Go figure. Same difference, I guess. Miller Import Parts listed it as a rear spindle. Looking for a replacement, I've learned to be prepared to see it listed either way. As far as the bushings are concerned, I had enough time during lunch to call Energy Suspension. The kit comes with all the spindle/knuckle bushings, trailing arm bushings, and upper control arm bushings.

It looks like I opened up a can of worms. I replaced my bushings and my alignment is still off. Measuring my subframe clearances on both sides, I noticed that my subframe itself may be tweaked. Lovely... Hopefully replacing that will solve my alignment issue. Now I just have to find someone with the right setup for me to be able to do it myself. Man, I love my car, just not right now... lol

Get a alignment plan.

You have Tire Kingdom down there? I know they have a 3 year plan for 159ish. Tis what I have.

When I did the suspension overhaul I had 4 alignments in one week

Definitely got my moneys worth so far.

I've been going to a small shop, and so far they've been hooking me up. I haven't had to pay for the alignment yet. All I paid for last time was the install of both spindles. They even took off the passenger side one and let me go get the bushings pressed in. They have been very cool. Once I replace the subframe, I should have the alignment spot on. If not, I'm going to replace the shock, since there's a possibility that it could also be bent from the accident many, many moons ago.

The shock/strut body does not affect your rear alignment (outside of ride height anyway).

If your ride height is equal, then replacing the shock/strut is a waste of money.

Always replace shocks/struts in pairs, too.

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2012 2500HD LML

Well, time for a stupid question. The rear knuckle I got (and installed the ES bushings) is the newer version and the back where the hub assembly bolts go is not as thick. Other than that, it's identical to my early version. Now, I had to remove the dust cover from the back so that the ABS sensor ring would clear. I don't like the thought of leaving the dust cover off, so what's the best way to remove the sensor ring, being that it serves no purpose on my RS? I looked for a hub assembly with the 6/96+ style ring (to clear the dust cover), but all the assemblies that are for sale come with the early style. Will I need to cut the ring off or can I pull it off with some sort of puller?

Just figured I fill you guys in. After replacing the rear crossmember and a siezed tow arm, my car is finally aligned perfectly. The crossmember was visibly bent when compared with the one I got from Miller. What a difference. I drove a bit aggresively to test everything out (highway and back roads) and my car feels so planted. One thing for sure, I learned alot through this 'adventure' .... lol