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Subject: "engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)" Previous topic | Next topic
ezOct-30-07 02:30 PM
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#30839, "engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
Oct-30-07 03:56 PM by ez

          

I have a sportline drop (~2.1 inches or so), a rear camber kit, and the front camber kit shown below:

^adjustable camber a-arm studs on left, stockers on right.

I installed the springs and camber kits together, let the car sit for a few days, and took the car to get an alignment (they did a "manual alignment" instead of with a machine- so they weren't able to give me a printup of what the specs were), and found myself with worn out front tires within a couple months (scary pics-safety issue!):



Don't see any rubbing against the frame or suspension, but wow the wear on the inner edge is extreme.

Rear tires looked fine. Took the car back and asked WTF. They said the toe was set to zero, but the negative camber caused the tire wear. But my camber looks fine in front, it's actually worse in the rear! Then they gave me a line about how the rear toe could make up for the rear camber. At this point I lost trust in them. I'm pretty certain only bad toe can cause this kind of wear
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=6&topic_id=30768&mesg_id=30768&listing_type=search

By the way, they didn't even adjust my camber kit the first time - they said they didn't even know I had a camber kit. I actually had to convince them that one was installed.

Anyways, now I'm wondering if I should get another camber kit with more extreme correction, and then go to another alignment shop, or go ahead and switch over to prokits and keep my existing camber kits.

The thing is, I'm not sold on the design of the camber kits I have. The center part of them spins around, to adjust the camber. The bolt goes through the a-arm and then through the hole shown in the picture above. But the center part spins freely ---> which makes me wonder, how does the adjustment ever stay where you left it? Does tightening the a-arm bolt that goes through the center part really keep this in place? I would think that the weight of the car will simply push the hole to the top, and in daily driving perhaps they move all along. Could this cause at least part of my wear problem?

Compare to these type of camber kits, where it looks like a bolt locks in the position that you adjust it to. These are not directly comparable, however, as they adjust the camber to more extreme angles 1.25-3.0 degrees. I'm open to input here

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
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Replies to this topic
RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), million3g, Oct-31-07 07:47 AM, #1
RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), freelancefool, Nov-01-07 12:06 AM, #2
RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), Chamuko, Nov-06-07 07:22 PM, #3
      RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), AdministratorStar Turbo Talon, Nov-08-07 12:39 AM, #4
           RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), mcgyvr, Nov-09-07 05:48 AM, #5
                RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics), ez, Nov-11-07 06:32 AM, #6

million3gOct-31-07 07:47 AM
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#30841, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 0


          

well my car is lowered also but i dont have a camber kit at all. and only my fronts wear on the outside. the rear are fine. i dont know exactly how much my car is lowered because i bought it like this. but i have herd that the ingalls kit is the best. and depending on how low your car is, is how aggressive your camber kit should be. mine is the rs version also. im still researching and asking on which kit i should get in the front since the rear is fine.

  

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freelancefoolNov-01-07 12:06 AM
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#30842, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 0




          

Actually, there isn't a whole lot of weight on the A-arms. That is why they can get away with that. The coilover is supporting the weight of the car. The A-Arms keep the top of the knuckle from moving in or out and front to back.

You should be fine with that camber kit that you have. The shop that you went to just sucks. Try and find a good 'tuner' shop with a nice alignment machine that will allow you to modify the factory specs on your alignment. There are two places where I live that will do that for you and none of the guys I know with modified cars have any problems.

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ChamukoNov-06-07 07:22 PM
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#30846, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 2




          

thats some mean wear. Lately ive had the same issue. The kit you have looks like the +-1 deg kit. Id go with the others in case ( looks like you need it).

The shop you went to is lousy dude, sorry. Even pepboys does a better job.

just wish we had the balljoint kits.

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AdministratorStar Turbo TalonNov-08-07 12:39 AM
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#30847, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 3




          

We do have ball joint kits.

  

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mcgyvrNov-09-07 05:48 AM
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#30848, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 4
Nov-09-07 05:49 AM by mcgyvr

          

get a real front camber kit. either the ingalls extreme like you show in the other pics or the adjustable ball joints (which IMO are much better)
The ones shown in your first pic will not work.
Infact engineering should be taken out of your topic because there is no engineering there, just someones idea of a camber kit that has NO knowledge of what they are doing. They will rotate and be out of alignment as soon as you set the car on the ground.
what a joke..

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

  

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ezNov-11-07 06:32 AM
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#30850, "RE: engineering of a-arm stud camber kits (w/ pics)"
In response to Reply # 5


          

thanks for your comment guys. Yes, I agree about the lack-of-engineering in those studs. I need to upgrade.

I took the 2g to another shop that does computerized alignments, so I could get a definitive answer. I come back to get my car, and there is no printup - their printer isn't working. There was some chicken scratch by the tech on my receipt - it looks like my toe was off by 1/4" on some wheels, but it's hard to decipher. And again - I can only go by their words to say that this is all zero'd out now. But it has a 6mo-warranty so I'm going to take it back when their printer is working so I can get a current-status report. But now I don't have a printup to take to the other shop. I HATE having to take my car to people to get anything done, bloody hell emoji

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

  

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