Just passing some good info on brake fluid.

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml

Just something of note that I've learned lately. The most efficient money that is spent on the brake system is

1. SS brake lines
2. Brake fluid
3. Brake pads

If you haven't touched any of these 3, upgrading calipers and/or rotors won't matter under a real stress condition.

GSX brake upgrade gives you the following

1. Increased clamping force
2. Increase surface area on the brake pad
3. Increase area on the brake rotor (allows it to absorb more heat)

You really don't need a BBK until you start experiencing brake fade under often and heavy braking. You can alleviate brake fade by doing other things before getting a BBK: slotted rotors, adding brake ducting to cool the brakes more efficiently, better pads, better fluid.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

Excellent read. This was always an unanswered question for me - why brake fluid is so hygroscopic, and why that H20 affects the properties of the fluid (alters boiling point).

I'm still going to do the GSX upgrade though

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Originally posted by ez
I'm still going to do the GSX upgrade though

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

im in the process of doing it also, i got ss brake lines, 1g gsx calipers, brembo slotted rotors, and hawk hps pads.

Just be very careful when unscrewing the rubber brake line from the hard brake line. The fitting there is very weak. I used a 10mill flare nut wrench and it still stripped. luckily the hard brake line is 10$ from stan. Im still waiting for it arrive.

Status: Sleeping, MS upgrades/rewiring.
99 Eclipse GS(with Turbo),Turbonetics 60-1 0.63a/r, MS II v3, 3" Turbo back exhaust, GSX Brakes, Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons, Eagle Rods, Crane 14s, SS Valves, Felpro Gasket Kit, Obx Lsd, Southbend Fe Clutch, Ebay Short Shifter, Pioneer Avic-N3, 12" Alpine Type-R

The key to getting that fitting loose at the rubber/hard line is using a line wrench which has an extra angle so that it grips the nut at 3 points rather than 2 with a normal open-end wrench.

I guarantee you with the line wrench and some pb blast or wd-40 on the fitting soaking for a bit, you'll break that loose in no time. Otherwise have fun paying with vise-grips and what have you trying to break it free.

I contributed to the Wiki.

Man...if you guys think that was awesome info, just imagine me in my brakes class at UTI. I was like weeee, I love information lol. Yea yea, hygroscopic is such an awesome word too!


One thing I would like to say though, you don't need those slotted/drilled rotors. I kept tryin to talk about my brembos in class, and my instructor pwn3d me lolz.

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!