This is what i need help with, the problem is is that i put 
eibach 2inch drop in my 95 gs, i bought camber kit front and
rear off ebay so i wont go through tires like crazy, but after
all was said and done and i took to get aligned my mechanic
(who is a dirt track racer and a mechanic who relly knows is
shit) told me that i was going to need some mods to have a car
that was going to have  predictable handling.  He said that
since i droped the car 2" that the steering linkage that
connects to your spindle or knuckle thing, was sitting
parallel with the lower control arm, and its not in mitsubishi
design or any other manu. for cars steering to be like that,
what has to happen is that the steering linkage needs to come
up about an inch or so. the second thing is that when i put
the camber kit on in the front when u go to adjust it it
pushes the upper control arm in and out, in is no problem but
if it gets pushed out it will hit that part of the wheel well
where it is suppose to move when ur suspension goes up and
down. i now this is alot of stuff to try to think about
without any pics but i was wondering if any true suspension
guys out there have really thought about this tu acheive the
best handling possible with a drop kit in there car. and if u
have what have u done or are there kits out there to correct
these problems.
thanx for checking this problem out

get the camber kits on, get an alignment..problem solved
yes lowering changes suspension geometry but its not that big
of a deal for the average daily driver. sure if you want to be
a serious autocross type of vehical then yes there are steps
that all take to improve on the standard lowered vehical
handling/geometry...but its far from necessary for the average
guy..

as for the front upper arm, you might need to grind a little
off the front where it hits when the camber kit is set
correctly..thats a common thing to have to do with our cars

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

hey thanx alot man i was just wondering if there were kits or
not otherwise i was just going to say fuck the whole thing and
juse get the damned thing alinged so i can start cruisn' again

If you get adjustable ball joints the control arm will not
move or hit anything.

Terry

I used a set of lock cutters to "snip off the piec of
metal that was hitting on my upper controll arms.   It worked,
but right afterwards i decided to go back to stock ride
height.

Ryan Siefring
Located near Dayton OH, zip 45356
Student at the University of Dayton.

what did u not like the stiff suspension and all the bouncing
around is that why u went back to stock?

If you have the Ingalls camber kit, the one with the largest
amount of adjustment, I too ran into this issue. I had to
leave it at minimum adjustment, so the control arm kept clear
of the strut tower. This is the downside of a low drop, and
control arm camber kits. Luckily, when i had the alignment
done, the camber was in perfect spec, so it didnt need any
more outward adjustment. Like Terry said though, the balljoint
camber kit is the way to go, if you need more positive camber
adjustment with a drop lower than 2" or so. I have the
H&R sport series springs BTW. 

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)