I'm just looking for some information on doing the rear disc conversion. I'd like to do a conversion, but I want to go with a larger disc than what the GSX comes with stock. I already read the tutorial on this site, but what I am wondering is if anyone out there is currently running a larger disc (front or rear) and who is it made by. I'm not looking to spend as much as the AEM or Brembo kits. I just want to know what brackets you're using in the front and rear, and what discs you're running. Thanks.

you will have to do the conversion then buy a big brake upgrade. AEM is the only one i am aware of for cheap. I have the AEM front and its a great idea until you want to run slicks.

Terry

why? what happens when you run slicks? and could i just get the big brake kit and the gsx callipers and lines etc.

the wheels used for slicks won't fit over the disk brakes

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

For the fronts, the purpose of running Slicks is to take advantage of the bias ply sidewall. With a big brake kit you must use 17" rims, this leaves you with a requirement of low profile tires which you wont find works with a true slick. you need to run 14" or 15" to use a slick. 16" will work but your selection of slicks is cut down by more than half.

For the rear which is what you asked about. The rear conversion requires the backing plates which house the parkign brake assy ad cables ect. you acquire this rear plate assy with the conversion. the Big brake kit like the AEM only comes with rotors and bracket spacers. So you see, you need to do the conversion then add the big brake kit.

Terry

My photo tech topic on the rear drum-to-disc upgrade.

http://www.rcaz.com/rcaz/sub%20indexes/drum_to_disc/index.htm


Note: I show you an easy mod that allows the use of your existing e-brake cables. Don't forget that you can scavenge parts from some Avengers and Sebrings too. While you're under there, get the lower control arms and links from the donor car so you can add a sway bar later (assuming you don't have one already).

I also have an RS and I'm curious as to what the largest size rotors I can fit on my car are without having to make my own bracket? What kit should I buy and are there new caliper brackets that come with any oversized rotors for around $500? Thanks.

For front the largest rotor you can use is a GSX front rotor but you will need the GSX calipers as well.

Cheaper aftermarket kits to run a larger disk will be the AEM's. They will come with adapter brackets.

For the rear the largest you can fit without a kit is the stock rotors. AEM's makes a rear kit as well.

Terry

If I chose to run the GSX cals will I need to modify the lines? Thanks.

Theres a sticky on the top of this forum with all the details.

But no you wont.
Unless you get the ones off the 3000gt (non VR4)

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

Look in the mainpage in the suspension mods section.

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections

A lot of work went into cleaning things up so you can find the info you want. Read the GSX upgrade and any questions, post em.

Terry

and if you do have a stock swaybar (GS), you can bolt in the one from a GS-T to help dial out some of that understeer for cheep.

juan

or the emergency spare...

I was hauling the spare around for ages until I found this out. I have the F & R AEM setup though. With a flat on a front wheel and with only the front upgrade kit, you could remove a rear wheel, mount the spare in its place and move that rear wheel to the front to replace the flat...

juan

Powerslot makes a very nice big brake kit. I'm running it on my car I ordered a complete GSX Big rotor kit and bought a set of Loaded GSX calipers for the front. The rear kits are the same for all rear disc models. My front rotors are 12.5" 2 piece units. My rears are 11.5" solid units. Both kits came with the caliper adaptor brackets. I'll post pics later once I get back home. Only draw back is the requirement of a 17" minimum wheel. you "might" be able to squeeze 16's over the brakes if you modify the caliper slightly with a die grinder. Full size spare is also a necessity. Keep in mind that this kind of brake setup is more for autocrossing/roadracing. I Love the stopping power I get from them, and use the car for a daily driver with no issues.

________________________________________
95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

The PowerSlot "Plus" setup is actually the same as the AEM one, actually. AEM sold/licensed the tech to PowerSlot, who now sell and supports the kits.

juan

Well here's my Pics of my brakes. I have to remark first that powerslot took a good design (AEM's old one) and improoved upon it greatly with top quality materials and eliminating the AEM's only real fault... Drilled rotors. Now they are much stronger and less apt to stress fracture.

front

rear


-Kevin

________________________________________
95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

My AEM's were never drilled.

Hmmm.. well I have to say I had always been under the impression that the AEM's all came drilled and slotted. Guess I was wrong. Any way you look at it the AEM or Powerslot are good kits and will definately improove braking power over stock, but at a price much easier to afford than a full brembo kit.

________________________________________
95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

if I remember correctly, they were slotted & x-drilled intially, but subsequently moved away from the x-drilling in favour of the dimpling or just the slotting I've had mine for ages now and they are still in pretty good shape.

The main problem with drilled aftermarket rotors was that they were often not chamfered properly (or at all). That is the main cause of the cracking. Note that since the parts used in racing cars often had the holes actually present in the casting, instead of being machined in afterwards, they were much more durable. Of course, real racing cars regularly replaced their rotors after an event. Not something that Joe Modder's like us can afford to do...

juan

I think that for most people with a daily driver any brake upgrade other then better pads is a bit of overkill. (Unless you are a banzai time-attack-style driver on your way to work, of course...

The main reason listed for upgrading the disc itself is to have more mass to help manage heat buildup from track use (or, say, canyon running). The "cost" is that you increase unsprung mass, which can actually degrade some aspects of your handling and acceleration potential.


juan