okay pees i bought a set of powerstops(cross dilled) for the ride back in December. it's now June and i warped dem beeyetchs! does anyone know if they got a warranty or something. i would like to get the AEM big brake but i'm gonna get turbo soon and won't be able to afford it. are the powerslots better against warping?

Chris Dishmon
coming soon:
PAINT!!!!(any donations of paint code p88 would be highly appreciated)
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

id go with the powerslots. the cross-drilled ones look nice, ubt if done improperly, thay are prone to cracking or warping. id only buy cross drilled directly from brembo/baer/aem or wilwood, but they are all expensive as hell.

2GNT Member #76, since Fall 1999

Drives: 2004 Mazda RX-8
Drove: 1999 Saab 9-5 SE
1999 Eclipse GS Hahn Stage 1

I have KVR Cross-Drilled rotors. I think they use Wilwood blanks... used to use Brembo, but switched. The holes are tapered down so they wear even and don't have cracks etc. I don't know that powerstop does this...

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins.

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished, EGT, A/F Meter, S-AFC

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

i think powerstop supposedly uses brembo blanks, but it doesnt matter what blanks are used if they arent drilled properly.

2GNT Member #76, since Fall 1999

Drives: 2004 Mazda RX-8
Drove: 1999 Saab 9-5 SE
1999 Eclipse GS Hahn Stage 1

hey saber, how do you install rotors improperly? i installed them myself and i don't think i could have installed them improperly.

Chris Dishmon
coming soon:
PAINT!!!!(any donations of paint code p88 would be highly appreciated)
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

The only way to really make a rotor warp from installation is having one lug nut tighter that the others. When it heats up it stays like that. That is why when I have garages do anything to my wheels I always check the lugs with the trusty torque wrench after they are done.



-AF/X underdrive crank pulley
-AEM Cold Air intake w/bypass valve
-PIAA headlight and foglight bulbs
-Clear bumper lenses
-Eibach Pro-Kits with Tokico n/a shocks
-Pilot Motorsports Front upper, Rear upper, Rear lower strut bars
-PowerSlot rotors (all four)
-Axxis Metal Master pads
-RRE rear camber kit
-Dunlop SP SPORT 8000 tires
-ECLIPSE word on dash
-Red Mitsu symbol on steering wheel
-Painted fog light bezels
-Window tint
-Magnecore wires and NGK plugs
-Purple interior lights
-Purple hose kit

If you consistantly use your brakes so much they fade, you will warp your rotors. This may not happen if the pads are stock or a mild compound. If you are using racing pads that grip real well(still rotor friendly) they will cause massive amounts of heat from the friction. If you continue to brake till fade(total loss of brakes)without cooling intervals you will warp the rotors and possibly crack a crossdrilled rotor. I do think with twin piston calipers the cracking is less of an issue since the pressure on the pads is more evenly distributed. Our outside pads generate more heat for some reason since the piston in on the inside.

You can always turn the rotors till they are no longer warped. Take small cuts until the entire surface is smooth.

I do agree that over torque on lug nuts will warp the rotor also. I have seen this with stock rotors all the time. Even a brand new rotor will be slightly warped sometimes. Most shops do not check them and just slap them on the car.....saves time. You would be suprised how many cheap parts stores rotors are warped right out of the box.

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

well i doubt it was over torquing that caused it cause i've been rolling them for about 6 or 7 months and i brake hard alot from highway speeds so i think that's it. i'll probably try to get them turned and run 2 dryer hoses from the holes in my front buper to the discs like they do in SCCA racing.

Chris Dishmon

"Fillet Mignon?!?!?! How about a big slab of tube steak for the pretty lady."

chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

What killed my rotors was slowing down really fast from 110 mph when I was racing a Grand Am and the traffic was stopped up ahead. That day ROTOR = TOAST, but you have to look at it this way..I may have needed new rotors but I did win the race





-AF/X underdrive crank pulley
-AEM Cold Air intake w/bypass valve
-PIAA headlight and foglight bulbs
-Clear bumper lenses
-Eibach Pro-Kits with Tokico n/a shocks
-Pilot Motorsports Front upper, Rear upper, Rear lower strut bars
-PowerSlot rotors (all four)
-Axxis Metal Master pads
-RRE rear camber kit
-Dunlop SP SPORT 8000 tires
-ECLIPSE word on dash
-Red Mitsu symbol on steering wheel
-Painted fog light bezels
-Window tint
-Magnecore wires and NGK plugs
-Purple interior lights
-Purple hose kit