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Subject: "SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed" Previous topic | Next topic
jsupetranOct-02-05 06:24 PM
Member since May 04th 2002
4359 posts,
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#28046, "SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"




          

I changed all of my brakes maybe 3000 miles ago on all four corners. All the disc where resurfaced, and I bought semi-metallic brake pads from Kragen I believe (they were the high end models). Ever since my brakes squeaks really loud to the point where I hear it with the windows are up. I put a bunch or anti-squeak behind the pads to the calipers...

If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do or trouble check, please shoot!

I'll drive it tomorrow and add more of my personal impressions.

Thanks!

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!


  

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shazow1969Oct-02-05 09:48 PM
Member since Sep 22nd 2005
466 posts,
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#28047, "RE: SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"
In response to Reply # 0


          

A few questions then a few suggestions:
1) How many miles do you have on the rotor's total (including prior to machining)? Cuz i know that high milage solid rear rotors sometimes don't like to be machined.
2) Is the noise coming from the front or rear? This will help you reduce the amount of work you are gonna have to do.
3) Do you have access to BG products (a buddy who works at a dealer should be able to get you a bottle of this stuff) they have alot of great products including some stuff called Stop Squeal. this stuff is applied directly to the pad friction surface after roughing it up with 100 grit sand paper.
4) Did you seat the pads properly? there is a period of time after installation (as determined by manufacturer) that certian driving methods must be used to "seat" the pads basically burnishing the rotors and pad surface together for best operation and noise reduction.
Suggestions:
1) The more performance oriented a pad is the higher the likeliness that it will make noise when used in less aggressive driving applications. They are intended to be used more aggressively than a stock pad.
2) Clean the caliper sliders, the brackets, and the pad retainers and lubricate the sliders, and retainers with brake lube.
3) Measure the rotor thickness front and rear (personally i just replace rotors instead of machining though it is a little more expensive this way I like to work with new parts since I'm up north and we have to deal with rust build up). If the shop machined them to minimum thickness then you might want to replace them.
4) I would just run a set of new power slot direct replacement rotors. www.summitracing.com carries the fronts for $80 each side (PN: PSR-518PSR right PN: PSR-518PSL left) and the rears for $99 each (PN: PSR-772PSR right PN: PSR-772PSL left).

________________________________________
95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

  

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jsupetranOct-03-05 04:42 AM
Member since May 04th 2002
4359 posts,
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#28049, "RE: SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"
In response to Reply # 1




          

Originally posted by shazow1969
A few questions then a few suggestions: 1) How many miles do you have on the rotor's total (including prior to machining)? Cuz i know that high milage solid rear rotors sometimes don't like to be machined. 2) Is the noise coming from the front or rear? This will help you reduce the amount of work you are gonna have to do. 3) Do you have access to BG products (a buddy who works at a dealer should be able to get you a bottle of this stuff) they have alot of great products including some stuff called Stop Squeal. this stuff is applied directly to the pad friction surface after roughing it up with 100 grit sand paper. 4) Did you seat the pads properly? there is a period of time after installation (as determined by manufacturer) that certian driving methods must be used to "seat" the pads basically burnishing the rotors and pad surface together for best operation and noise reduction. Suggestions: 1) The more performance oriented a pad is the higher the likeliness that it will make noise when used in less aggressive driving applications. They are intended to be used more aggressively than a stock pad. 2) Clean the caliper sliders, the brackets, and the pad retainers and lubricate the sliders, and retainers with brake lube. 3) Measure the rotor thickness front and rear (personally i just replace rotors instead of machining though it is a little more expensive this way I like to work with new parts since I'm up north and we have to deal with rust build up). If the shop machined them to minimum thickness then you might want to replace them. 4) I would just run a set of new power slot direct replacement rotors. www.summitracing.com carries the fronts for $80 each side (PN: PSR-518PSR right PN: PSR-518PSL left) and the rears for $99 each (PN: PSR-772PSR right PN: PSR-772PSL left).


Thanks for the response. I'll work with the suggestions you made.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!


  

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shazow1969Oct-03-05 09:50 AM
Member since Sep 22nd 2005
466 posts,
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#28050, "RE: SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"
In response to Reply # 2


          

Glad I could help you out. If you need any more help just ask.

________________________________________
95 Eclipse RS - Rolled
96 Eclipse GS - Traded
95 Eclipse GSX- Sold
01 Blazer LS 4.3/5spd dropped and clean DD
88 Camaro RS 361 CID with a 6spd and a bar 10 second street car on motor.

  

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WickedESiOct-06-05 05:27 AM
Donating 2GNT member
3090 posts,
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#28078, "RE: SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"
In response to Reply # 3
Oct-06-05 05:28 AM by WickedESi



          

The way I see it, if LeMans and Formula car's breaks can squeak, my breaks can squeak emoji

They have special street performance and typical consumer pads out there that are designed not to squeak, but when you buy all out performance pads, they are designed to transfer energy, not to dampen noise.


Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

  

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jsupetranOct-07-05 01:41 PM
Member since May 04th 2002
4359 posts,
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#28089, "RE: SQUEEEEEEEEEK... After new brakes installed"
In response to Reply # 4




          

Naw these are Kragen Raybestos brakes I believe. It's a little embarrassing imo but that's just me.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!


  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

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