Okay guys, the new brake pads are about twice as thick as my old pads and can't fit!

I called pepboys to see if they gave me the right part and they said that yes, based on the part numbers, they should work. The pads can seat inside the bracket, but when I swing the caliper down, the caliper won't fit since the pads are too thick.

Do you think I should push the piston back down more with the C-clamp?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

You have to take like a c-clamp and clamp the piston down until it's all the way down.

edit- if that makes any sense.

c-clamp:



You'll see a round cylinder(piston) on the inside of the caliper where the pad goes. Put the c clamp over it and the caliper. Start tighting the c clamp until the piston is all the way down.

Thanks man. Okay, so I am going to try this but need some extra clarification. Should I let the caliper stay with the rotor and it's bolted on there, or should I take the caliper off, then put the c-clamp on there?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Okay cool thanks you thank you thank you. This is actually for my mom's pt cruiser and I've never done this before.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

lol i would hope your new pads are thicker than the old ones. if not you just got ripped off. but yea you hafta press the pistons in quite a bit. it's more of a pain with dual piston calipers like the GSX ones b/c they tend to push the one you're not working on out. unless you just use two clamps at once.

oh and you don't need to take the caliper off the brackets. just take off one bolt and swing it out.

-marc

Yeah got it done and mom = happy. You guys were right!

Brake shop charge 300+.
Me doing it. 100=Priceless.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

you can push it in with your hands if you loosen up the brake bleeder --push it all the way in, brake fluid squirts out.

btw; you remember to bleed the brakes afterwards, right?

you shouldnt need to bleed the brakes after changing just the pads should u? i know i have changed brakes on a couple integras and another eclipse and never had to do that and they worked just fine.

Mike D
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New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

I personally just break the bleeder loose real quick and then re-tighten it. I have done brake jobs on several cars this way and never had any air in the lines.

Congradulations you just let air into the line. You dont have to bleed the brakes unless u disconnect the brake line or open the bleed screw. If when you opened the bleed screw brake fluid didnt come shooting out u just let air into the brake line. And the only way for fluid to come shooting out is unless someone else is holding down the brake pedal when you open the bleed screw.

Actually, if the piston(s) is/are being compressed, fluid will come out.

Congratulations, you just gave bad information.

it's prolly not the best to open the bleed screw while changing pads since your calipers most likely positioned such that the screw is not the highest point on the caliper. the caliper gets flipped upside down when you swing it out so you can compress the pistons. this puts the screw at the bottom. i'm sure you can figure out why this is a bad time to open it.

-marc

Still, if the pressure in the caliper cylinder is higher than atmospheric, it will not matter which way is up, unless you are trying to get air out of the cylinder.

opening the bleeder is the only way to correctly compress a caliper

No, a C clamp works just fine, too.

I just like opening the bleeder better. Just make sure that you open it as you are pushing on the piston, and close it while you are pushing on the piston. Failure to do so can introduce air into the system.

yea, use C-clamps. I am an idiot and like to use my hands instead to push the piston in. it makes a man out of you tho'

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO