Hey Guys, as the title says, I will also have a haynes manual in hand. I think it has probably been more than 25000 miles since my brakes have been service but I was wondering what to look for interms of looking at the rotors, and pads for that matter. I am just doing a quick check to see if everything is okay, then if needed to change anything, I plan to do a gsx brake conversion. But if everthing is okay... then I won't change anything.

Also, is it normal to see "lines" on the rotors? My brakes don't squeel alot. It may do it when it is really cold, but for the most part, is pretty silent.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

does your steering wheel shake at all when braking?

how thin do the pads look?

brakes are pretty easy

No shaking on the steering wheel. Is there a standard measurement in terms to how thin a pad has to be in order to be changed? Is the amount of thinness on the pad itself? Also, if I remove the pads to check, do I have to resurface the rotors? Thanks, man.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

stock rotors?

Yup stock rotors currently. I may take a pic this weekend of the rotors in that will help you.

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

if you are going to re-use your current rotors, just get them turned and put some new pads. it seems like everything is working fine, so that should be it.

if you are going to upgrade to gsx calipers/rotors, might be a good idea to change to ss brake lines too. when bleeding, get those speed bleeders.

1995 Eclipse RS

reason i ask is because if you had cross drilled or slotted rotors, you cant get them turned.

but yea like ^^^ said, get them turned and just slap on some new pads. more than likely you wont even have to bleed the brakes because what happens is when you push down the piston on the caliper to install the new thicker pad, it pushes fluid back up toward the brake reservoir. so if anything, you'll have to actually take some fluid OUT of the reservoir, only maybe.

but yea when i change my brakes i dont even have to bleed them. you can though, wont hurt.

Thanks. When I have it turned, is that the same as resurfacing the brakes or is it a different thing?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

1995 Eclipse RS