Ok. So my brakes were squealing and made my car sound like a piece of shit. I could'nt take it anymore.. They braked fine still just screeched like a motha.. Tried spray and everything problem is still there. So I replace my pads today With some Duralast Golds from Autozone. Installed them correctly and all is good, no leaks or anything. My problem now is they have less braking power than my old shitty pads. Which may I add when I took the old pads out.. yea they didnt have any meat left on them. So whats up why does my car not stop better with these new pads. When I ropm the brakes going from 15-0 or even 10-0 or 5-0 the car still slids a little like its not catching all the way but I can feel it a little bit. The lines have no leaks and I know I don't have air in the line because I did'nt touch the lines. So whats up? Do these need to go through a break in period or what. Urgent response is greatly appreciated. Thanks

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

they need to be broken in some. a week or two of driving (stop and go) will get them going good. you could also do some fast stops from high mph.

also.. you should go ahead and bleed your brakes. i bleed my brakes after every time at the track and if im not at the track, i bleed them once every 3 months.

Is'nt it a pain in the ass to bleed the brakes? I have heard that you need more than one person to do that too because some has to be pumping the brakes and someone has to be doing something else. Please explain this to me

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

most performance pads need to be broken in. this doesn't take a week. there's a special break-in procedure. basically you get your car up to a bout 60mph and then brake down to 5mph. do not stop. speed up again and brake again. you do this braking harder each time. after like 5 or 6 times you should start to smell the pads. there's a lot of info on break in procedures for pads if you search.

also when you say it slides a little do you mean the tires are breaking loose? b/c then that's not a brake problem, it's a traction problem.

-marc

No, I just mean they arent gripping all the way. Along with my lack of attentivness in the morning I almost slammed into some girls car when I was parking pulled in the spot had the pedal to the floor and the rotors I guess were still sliding along. It's deffintley not a traction problem because it has been dry out and these tires are brand spankin new like not even 2 months of wear on them. I also put anti squeel shit on the back of the pads when I installed them, could that have screwed anything up. I put like 2 cm thick of that stuff across the pads.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Wow! I was driving my moms trailblazer because she didnt want me driving my car with my brakes all fucked up.. Good thing I did too because I had to make a quick ass stop this afternoon from 65-0 after some old fart in a cavy decided to drive really slow into traffic.. I hate it when people do that shit.. fuckin squeeze out into traffic and are not even prepared to get up to pace. I should have took his ass with the truck. Shoot him across the lanes like a pinball. So yea.. If I were in my car I would have probably been dead because the car would have probably only slowed down to like 40 by the time i got to him.. so yea for me because I am still alive.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Bumping this up because my brakes still suck. So please help before the car leads to my death. Could the fact that I did'nt replace my rear brakes be the reason why I can't stop as quick. Also I did not resurface my rotors, and I am curious as to if I replaced the rotors would that make the bigger difference because I know when I took the pad off on the drivers side the center was still a little thick but towards the edge on both sides they were completely shot. I'm really serious when I say I need some help here because I keep my hand on the e-brake the whole time now with these brakes being as shitty as they are now.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Get a Mityvac. It'll leet you bleed the system all by yourself. Costs like 30 bux.
http://www.mityvac.com

juan

you should just upgrade to GSX Brakes...

easy, and cheap.

Built block.
Refinished head.
Tuned suspension.
TURBO.

If I did'nt just quit my job I would.. I just thought about that on the way home from school.. New rotors would cost me $130 I just bought new pads for $35.. For $200 I would be all set with a much better setup. I'll probably look into it more after I get another job. I have alot of other things I have to work on too, so I will be fine for now If I can get the brakes to work rite as they are. Good new though is that they stop pretty good, but when it comes to the last few inchs it slides along like im on ice.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

flush your brakes dude!

i sware thats the problem

So the method you told me I am not going to get air in my lines? I just open up some kind of valve and it will drain all the fluid from my brakes as I pump them. And once its at the low line close the line and put more fluid in? By the way the brakes feel alot better this afternoon after alot of stop and go driving and taking it out on the freeway

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

I dunno, the same thing happened with me when I "upgraded" to ceramics. I did the required break-in procedures, and the stockers felt so much more solid than these brakes. They squeak like hell too. one of the things I didn't do though was take the rotors to be machined while I was doing the break job. (always heard you are not supposed to do that with cross-drilled rotors.)

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Brakes work now.. I guess it just took a long time for it to be seated properly. They will stop pretty quick now, and spit up much less dust. Thanks to those of you who replied. I'll probably still flush my lines though.

98' Eclipse GS- Hahn Stage 2- SOLD
02' Honda S2000- SOLD
04' Acura TL- Current Whip

Yeah a nice 5x 65 to 5 mph break-in helps.

------------------------------------------------
98 ESi
95 GS

I got into this thread to late it looks like. I would have told you earlier had I seen it that those pads are great quality you just have to let them get seated. I used them this last time I did a brake job along with rotors and I love them. A lill scary till they get seated well though. Oh yeah I got my rotors for $17 a piece also. Good to know a few old mechanics with hook-ups around town.