I have had a rear clunking noise for about 2 years now...i took it to a shop to get it looked at and they told me that one of my bushings was frozen and that my upper rear control arm needed to be replaced. do i need to replace the whole arm or can i just replace the bushings and the noise will go away? i just got the master set and im putting it on soon is that all i need to do?
#26845, "RE: master bushing set" In response to Reply # 0
replace the bushings and see if it helps. BTW have fun with the master set its a PITA to get some of the bushings out/in. better have a nice arbor press. sometimes a torch also works to burn the old ones out.
#26846, "RE: master bushing set" In response to Reply # 1
All it takes are wrenches, sockets, ratchets, beer, time, patience, a MAPP gas torch, and a sawzall. With those tools, the prothane kit can be installed. The Energy Suspension kit is a little bastard, though, with one piece bushings. For that, you need a press (20 ton or so to really push those little fuckers in).
#26856, "RE: master bushing set" In response to Reply # 6
One of my Energy Suspension bushings has gotten eaten up and destroyed only six months after installing it. I'm not really happy about that for the 4 hours it took me to install it.
I'm selling the rest of my Energy Suspension rear kit, which might help you save a few bucks. $50 shipped, only one bushing is missing - the one where the lube can is. (Its the one that goes at the top of the hub arm.)
#26894, "RE: master bushing set" In response to Reply # 0
Another question i had is when i install the kit i was informed that the sleeves might break trying to get them out. Has anyone had any luck not breaking them when removing the old bushings? and if they do break will i need to get new sleeves or will the bushing kit still work?
#26899, "RE: master bushing set" In response to Reply # 8
The sleeves are only used with the factory bushings. I cut mine out with a Sawzall, so I guess it's alright if you break them.
The sleeves are in place because the rubber is too soft to press in by itself. Urethane, however, can be pressed, pushed, beaten on, and pounded in. If you had the prothane kit, it would just take a couple of taps with a hammer to get them in, though.