I just installed my Sprint springs and had Car-x do a 4 wheel alignment. They replaced my driver side end tie rod and he said my car wobbles when driving it so i took it out and the damn thing vibrates a bunch ONLY under acceleration. As soon as i get up to speed its fine. He said something about the cv boot?? I was also thinking maybe a loose motor mount. I did just buy the solid front motor mount on here from the guy whos making them. Please any input, i'm desperate! THanks in advance though guys

Thats the mount talking, all normal imo for a solid mount. Its really not a bad feeling, your just feeling your motor put the torque down is all untill crusing speed.I got used to really liking the feeling of my motor under acceleration

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I dont have my solid motor mount installed yet....I plan on doing it and know my car will vibrate then, but it still does now. So could my stock motor mount be loose or something??

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If its not my motor mount and it ends up being like my cv boot or cv joint how much are those and is it a job I could do myself? I'm fairly well at mechanically taking apart and putting back together parts. Thanks

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Sounds like your passenger side cv joints are worn out even if the boot isn't tore. Same thing happened to me and some others.

Here's more on that:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=4&topic_id=65139&mesg_id=65139&listing_type=search

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

thanks guys, so does if its somethin with the axle or cv joint, what exactly will i need to buy. A whole new axle for the driver and passanger side, or just a new cv joint for the passenger side. thanks! cory

A whole new axle is the logical thing to do. They are around $70 w/ the core, and come w/ a lifetime warranty from the major auto parts stores.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Would this be the correct item to purchase? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=CCT&mfrpartnumber=6737&parttype=945&ptset=C
I also found one at raxles.com

If for some reason you cant get to it from this link, its at advanceautoparts.com and just under a 95 mitsu eclipse front wheel drive automatic transmission. How difficult will it be for me to swap out my old axle for this new one?

Also, if i buy this axle does it come with the cv joint and boot. I know thats the boot on there so then is the joint inside of it. Sorry I'm just starting to learn about this topic. I havent had to deal with this problem on my dsm yet.

go to raxles. talk to marty, should be 119 bucks each axle
comes with remanufactured shaft and new joints/boots,etc.. on both ends plus free return shippin on the core.

you have a bad inner cv joint or bent shaft.

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Well I just had another guy take a look at it today and he said something like my driveshaft was rubbing on the frame of hte car??? I didnt get to talk to him long enough about it because of time, but this really doenst make any sense to me. So he said that I should get a new shorter driveshaft. This also doesnt make sense because how would a shorter one stop it from hitting the frame. So how confident are you guys that it is the axle that I should replace?

unless you look at the ds and see signs of that for yourself I would just chalk up what that guy said as BS.

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So what do you think I should do or replace? I still have to take it to a local performance shop and see what they think. But I dont really even understand where the ds would be hitting the frame or how that would even occur. He said something about getting a shorter ds and that would fix the problem. I really really need this fixed bad because I dont even want to drive my car cuz it just feels like shit. Also, my a arm is fucking knocking on part of the wheel well plastic and the chassis? What the hell am I suppose to do about that. Will new kyb gr-2 struts take car of that problem? I'm really getting frustrated so if anyone could contribute anything to my problems it would be great. you've all been a lot of help already. Thanks again! -Cory

Shops like to blame everything on your car being lowered, it's bs. If you think your mounts are good, I would replace your passenger side axle.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Sounds good thanks, for all the input. Where can I get just a passenger side axel??

I recommend the places to buy axles from in this order:

O'Reilleys, Advance Auto, Napa, AutoZone

For the lifetime warranty at Napa to work, you MUST keep the receipt.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

i vote for cv joint..especially if it gets worse with time


Jon

1997 Eclipse RS
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport
12.671 @ 111.660 1.586 60' 5/28/04

www.haiokuracing.com

shaun> i'm sayin', bro!

Well I dont think its getting worse over time because I just came back home over the weekend without driving my car and I just thought maybe carx fucked up and didnt put my lugs on back the right way so I loosened and retightened them the correct way and it actually helped the shaking a little bit. I mean it still shakes but def not as bad. So tomorrow I'm going to be going to a local performace shop and seeing what they think my problem is. From what you guys have read about this topic on here, what questions should I ask them? Thanks!

Good luck, no one I've talked to was able to tell me it was my axle with perfect boots that was causing all hell, except a fellow 2gnt'er (sorry I forgot who it was, it was a very long time ago).

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

like I said above to me it sounds like a bad inner CV joint. just replace the whole axle, if they are still origional then def replace both

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Well I just got a call back from the local performance shop and they told me that everything with the cv joint, cv boot, steering rack, and all suspension component related parts, are all tight and there was no problem there. BUT!!! He is keeping it one more night because he thinks that the problem is in the transmission. He said it could be from the torque converter not locking up like its suppose to. Hes keeping it over night to run more tests to see what exactly is the problem. If anyone has any ideas from this new info let me know. Also, how much do you think this will cost to fix? how much are new torque converters and what else would i have to replace along with that?? TIA!!