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If you use the e-brake cable from the donor, pull the rubber grommet out of the car (from underneath), then pull the cable thru the rubber grommet. Do the opposite to reinsert. You will need a friend to pull the rubber grommet from inside the car while you push it from below until it seats correctly. Once you get under the car you will see. The grommets are located where your heels would be if you were sitting in the back seat. Best way to get to that area is to take the back seat bottom out and pull the carpet forward, this made it very easy to access the area. I had no issues getting to any of the bolts under the carpet doing it this way. Putting a little soap on the cabling will also assist in pulling it out of the rubber grommet and reinserting it.
Be sure that the bolts to hold the caliper are at least 8 to 10 grade. Somewhere along the way someone changed them to 4 grade on the donor car that my calipers came from. I ended up twisting the head off the bolt when I tried to torque to specs.
Also, keep right (passenger side) and left (driver side) parts together and on the right and left side of the car to help keep from getting confused. I saved the hub\bearing assemblies to use in the future if one fails. I am no mechanic and I found this to be rather easy, including changing the lower control arm assemblies to accept the sway bars. I did my front brakes earlier, this was similar. Also, keep right an left parts together and on the right and left side of the car to help keep from getting confused. Use a torque wrench.... AEM CAI, AFX Underdrive Pulley, Greddy Header, Tsudo N1 2.5 stainless catback, Homemade groundwire kit 17" Fondmetal 6500, Tokico Illuminas, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Front Upper Strut Bar, Baer Track System, Drum to Disc, RMDSM Anti-sway bars front and rear.

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