#24427, "Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" Jun-18-04 02:08 PM by GhEttOrAiD
Well, apparently my lugs actually taper, that is, they get larger right near the hub...this has made it impossible to install this GSX brake kit i got from Spooledupracing. I tried myself, and WheelWorks had a crack at it, same conclusion.
I called up satan to confirm, they also believe that my lugs should NOT taper in this manner. From what I've read, I just need a large hammer to both remove and install these lugs. Does anyone have any personal experience with this?
I'm also a little concerned that switching to straight lugs that dont taper could... somehow make my hub obsolete. i.e... maybe the hub NEEDS the lugs to be a larger diameter.... Plus... I'm not sure I'm entirely comfortable working with large blunt imprecise tools when dealing in such a critical area!
#24428, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 0
Even though you told me to "shut the fuck up" i will help you out!
I have seen tapered studs (if thats what you really mean) on other manufacturs. Kinda sounds like someone replaced yours with the wrong ones, who knows. All you really need to do is remove your calipers/brackets and strike each Stud once with a big hammer. They should pop right out. Now keep in mind you need to rotate the hub so the stud you are hitting is where the caliper is supposed to be. If you have to hit the studs a couple times dont be alarmed. You will see whyyou have to rotate the hub as you go when you get it apart and look at the access you have to the back of the studs. Use an open lug with a few heavy washers to tighten the new studs into the hub.
There should be no reason you will have to change your hub out. If you feel you do i have rebuilt ones but you shouldnt.
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24430, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Even though you told me to "shut the fuck up" i will help you out! I have seen tapered studs (if thats what you really mean) on other manufacturs. Kinda sounds like someone replaced yours with the wrong ones, who knows. All you really need to do is remove your calipers/brackets and strike each Stud once with a big hammer. They should pop right out. Now keep in mind you need to rotate the hub so the stud you are hitting is where the caliper is supposed to be. If you have to hit the studs a couple times dont be alarmed. You will see whyyou have to rotate the hub as you go when you get it apart and look at the access you have to the back of the studs. Use an open lug with a few heavy washers to tighten the new studs into the hub. There should be no reason you will have to change your hub out. If you feel you do i have rebuilt ones but you shouldnt. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
ahhh yeah that sounds easy
theres no risk of like... what i mentioned regarding the hub REQUIRING these larger studs? How do they fit in? Are they recessed at all?
thanks!
Dont remember telling you to stfu... just ah... lol
#24432, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 2
Well the hubs shouldnt have been modified if that is the stud that really did come with the car. Now if someoen did switch suds and drilled out the hub then you never know but i cant see anyone going through all that hassel for a wrong or different stud. Do this: Pick up 10 studs or get them from a junkyard....easy to get and pocket, the ones on a 1g might be the same. Pop one of yours out and test fit the correct stud. you will see on the stud the splines that cause the press fit, you should not be able to put them in by hand, it will require some type of force as previously discussed. Then you are fine.
Picture would be great but unnessasary. you should be fine just changing out the studs. I am really curoius as to the size of the taper.....never seen any installed on an import compact car before..mostly trucks du to the large drums on the rear but we are talking 1" dia stud too...lol
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24433, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Well the hubs shouldnt have been modified if that is the stud that really did come with the car. Now if someoen did switch suds and drilled out the hub then you never know but i cant see anyone going through all that hassel for a wrong or different stud. Do this: Pick up 10 studs or get them from a junkyard....easy to get and pocket, the ones on a 1g might be the same. Pop one of yours out and test fit the correct stud. you will see on the stud the splines that cause the press fit, you should not be able to put them in by hand, it will require some type of force as previously discussed. Then you are fine. Picture would be great but unnessasary. you should be fine just changing out the studs. I am really curoius as to the size of the taper.....never seen any installed on an import compact car before..mostly trucks du to the large drums on the rear but we are talking 1" dia stud too...lol Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
if it is in fact a taper, its VERY slight. like you wouldnt even notice it if you saw it in real life...
#24434, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 3
Well not sure what mitsu was referring to exacly, i can assume but we know where that goes. I have installed mine when they were broken and when rebuilding the hubs i have now.....all the studs are the same, not a bit of taper other than the splines that press in. You dont need to heat the studs at all just a good wack with a hammer. You can thread a lug on the end so you dont take the risk of mushrooming them at all or miss and hit another, this way you know they are perfect if you want spares (good to have). if the taper is that small have you tried cleaning out the rotor holes at all...maybe you have some corrosion (if they are used). If they are new you could ream the hole if its that small a difference. I wouldnt, junkyard would only cost you an hour including your drive time to get studs.
Heat expansion is usually referred to when dealing with the proper metal or manufacturing process in the stud quality. For example the studs in a 26000 lbs hydraulic truck are hardened to a higher grade then say our 2600lb passenger vehicle. Thats the only thing i can think mitsu was talking about unless the tech was trying to get you to bring your car to them. (Baffle with bullshit technique)
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24435, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Well not sure what mitsu was referring to exacly, i can assume but we know where that goes. I have installed mine when they were broken and when rebuilding the hubs i have now.....all the studs are the same, not a bit of taper other than the splines that press in. You dont need to heat the studs at all just a good wack with a hammer. You can thread a lug on the end so you dont take the risk of mushrooming them at all or miss and hit another, this way you know they are perfect if you want spares (good to have). if the taper is that small have you tried cleaning out the rotor holes at all...maybe you have some corrosion (if they are used). If they are new you could ream the hole if its that small a difference. I wouldnt, junkyard would only cost you an hour including your drive time to get studs. Heat expansion is usually referred to when dealing with the proper metal or manufacturing process in the stud quality. For example the studs in a 26000 lbs hydraulic truck are hardened to a higher grade then say our 2600lb passenger vehicle. Thats the only thing i can think mitsu was talking about unless the tech was trying to get you to bring your car to them. (Baffle with bullshit technique) Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
Yeah I shouldnt have zoned out during that spiel... busy at work so i couldnt devote resources to bullshit detection
theyre brand new rotors, and I'd rather not just "bandage" the situation anyway. I'd also be afraid of doing any form of machining on the rotor, I'm sure its not as bad as making your own DRILLED rotors but...it seems to me that its in the same vein...
#24436, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 7
One more thing...Do i have to worry about breaking anything when I hammer? I dont mean if i miss, I just mean is there risk of bending something that shouldnt be bent...
#24455, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Well not sure what mitsu was referring to exacly
they probably ment to heat the hubs to expand them and freeze the studs to shrink them. then put em together and they will slide in together alot easier
#24449, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 0
for future reference, if anyone searches+finds this thread... it really is that easy, my old studs popped out after 1-2 hits. just rotate stud you're working on to the cutout part of the dust shield where the caliper would be.
#24477, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 0
errrr update.. i heard this faint rattling when i was coasting to a stop in neutral .. under 10mph... frigging... one of my lugs was backing off... 3-4 more turns and id be on 4 lugs... which isnt bad but the others were a bit loose. I think its just because of the heat...
Mitsubishi was probably saying that I needed to heat the hub up, THEN torque the studs in to prevent this problem from coming up on the road when brake heat hit it.
#24483, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 13
Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD errrr update.. i heard this faint rattling when i was coasting to a stop in neutral .. under 10mph... frigging... one of my lugs was backing off... 3-4 more turns and id be on 4 lugs... which isnt bad but the others were a bit loose. I think its just because of the heat... Mitsubishi was probably saying that I needed to heat the hub up, THEN torque the studs in to prevent this problem from coming up on the road when brake heat hit it.
you may not have seated the studs all the way, when you're putting them on you have to make sure that it is flush with the back of the hub. you're should also re-torque your wheel lugs after 100 miles of driving, especially with new studs, wheels, or lugs.
-------------------- 99 GS-Turbo 3.55 MTX S16G @ ~15psi - FMIC - Forged Internals Clinton Township, MI
#24489, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 14
Originally posted by willmayo
Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD errrr update.. i heard this faint rattling when i was coasting to a stop in neutral .. under 10mph... frigging... one of my lugs was backing off... 3-4 more turns and id be on 4 lugs... which isnt bad but the others were a bit loose. I think its just because of the heat... Mitsubishi was probably saying that I needed to heat the hub up, THEN torque the studs in to prevent this problem from coming up on the road when brake heat hit it.
you may not have seated the studs all the way, when you're putting them on you have to make sure that it is flush with the back of the hub. you're should also re-torque your wheel lugs after 100 miles of driving, especially with new studs, wheels, or lugs.
yeah i saw that on Trucks! the other day
they rattled a little loose again today... they must not be seating evenly... I really need my own airtools so i can do this right !!
#24851, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 15
actually, if you use the freeze the studs and heat the hubs technique, you don't need any tools to put em in. it should expand/contract enough to be able to slide them in and get them all the way seated by threading a lug onto em
#24852, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 16
yeah ok, why would you go through all that hassel when uit takes 15mins to just crank em in. I haghly doubt you can heat them enough to make the expand enough to just slip a frozen stud in. Unless you have done it and can provide proof i think this is wishful thinking and would work in a perfect world.
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
