ok i put my camber kit on today and put my factory wheels back on so i could get it aligned with out the shop screwin up my 18s. well i was tightening the lugs back up and was on the last wheel lock. Im torqueing (sp) them to 100 ft lbs according to performance wheel and tire here. The pattern inside the wheel lock brakes loose from the lock itself. I tried to hammer them back together but it wont stay and i cant get my factory wheels back off to put my 18s back on.

I called the dealership to try to get another one but they cant get one without the serial number that came with the locks. They tried lookin up the vin to see if they could get any info, but none. they want 150 a wheel to try to cut them off and wont guarentee they wont mess up the wheel studs which id have to pay for to have them replace if they do screw them up.

I know the dealership isnt tryin to screw me about not being able to get another lock key because my brother in low is the service manager there. Im gonna try to have the pattern welded back into key and get them off and not put them back one. If that doesnt work anyone have any ideas on how to get this thing off... i want my 18s back on

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go to a tire shop they have a universal socket that can take it off for u. also if u have 18's get it aligned with 18's the larger wheel tends to give u slight negative camber.

^^Work in progress pic
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well unfortunatly i went to 4 alignment shops and none of them can get my car on there alignment rack... I found one that can get it on the rack but they want 119.99 to do a 4 wheel alignment with no warrenty cause the suspension is modified. I was like ummmmm no thanks.

when i had it aligned the first time the left front was out 1.4 degrees and the right front was out 1.7 degrees. i put the ingalls extreme kit on that adjusts from 1.25 to 3 degrees. It seems like its fine now. camber looks good and it drives like it did before i put the camber kit on. i put it on at the minimun setting and still have to modify my inside fender a bit for the control arm.

So i may just leave it and just keep an eye on my tires for abnormal wear. if it happens ill look for another place to get it aligned.

as for gettin the locks off... i havnt yet.

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so what broke is the "key" and not the lug nut correct? you should be able to order a key (usually mfg from McGard) using the numbers etched into the key. when i got my car they didnt include the key. what i ended up having to do to get one was take a peice of soft plastic, placed the plastic over the lug nut, whack it a few times with a hammer, and send it off to McGard so they could match it. they got it right, just a pain to wait for it. but since you do have they key, you should be able to call them up and order a replacement. they are online i know.

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2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

ill give that a try. i didnt notice a number on the key. i could send them the pattern in the key itself. thats what broke lose. the little flower pattern came out of the key. I can just send that to em... lol not like i can use it anyways.

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try this, i stripped out my lock and the factory lock that i had was the same as the mcguard set. what i'm sayin if from lookin around after that happened i noticed all the locks were the same pattern so i just a set and used the lock that came with the new set. so you might want to look into that.

you should be able to get a replacement key or in the mean time while you wait, go to a autoparts tool store and lug nut remover socket for stripped lugs. In side the socket will look like a little tornado grooves. you place it over the lug, tap it snug with a hammer (lightly i swear) and put a ratchet/breakerbar on it and loosen....voila takes 3 mins and the lug is off and reusable if you get a new key.

Dealers want to cut the lugs off because they charge 1 hr to do it and use the same socket i described. they just let your car sit on the rack and look busy.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Niche 17" chrome shoks - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 355 neon tranny, stage 2 MIBA clutch, Power doors, 450 Turbo injectors, Adj Fuel reg/return line, Backseat eliminator kit(my design), GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Shit, I'd just weld on an socket extention or something. Tack the bitch right to the lugnut and that should do it.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

lol thats what i did and it worked... after i got em off i just threw the locks and key away.

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get a socket a bit larger than the lug itself and get a piece of rubber to stick inside the socket. hammer the socket onto the lug and take it off with an impact wrench. i think i used a 22 or 23mm socket and a piece of rubber radiator hose... alot cheaper than paying to have them removed. i threw my locking ones away and bought 4 new ones from satan.