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Subject: "Brake Dilema" Previous topic | Next topic
TeamMichael_97RSMay-15-01 07:55 AM
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#2325, "Brake Dilema"


          

Okay here's my dilema. I'm upgrading my brakes. I've looked at the price of the KVR cross drilled rotors I was going to get. but for a little more I can get AEM Big Brake Kits for front and rear. The difference is maybe $200 that's taking a guess on shipping. ~$600 vs. $750+S&H I would love the big brake kits, and spending the money doesn't nother me, I will just wait a little and save up a few extra bucks, before I do the rear conversion etc.

Here's the real problem. I'm contemplating doing some SCCA Solo events next season. I haven't made up my mind yet. Doen't know if I'll have time etc. If I do the big brake up grade I am put out of the STS class, which is the class I have a chance of being competitive in and moves my t street preped which I wouls get abslutely destroyed by the competition.

If I get just the rotors and a good set up pads, and don't wind up doing SCCA I'll kick myself for not getting the "good stuff." and the same goes for the reverse, because I will either be in a class I don't belong in or I'll have to tak ethe Big Brakes off to compete.

Let me know what your guys opinions are. Thanks

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5 with Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17 on the way!!!

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

  

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HadesOmegaMay-15-01 08:12 AM
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#2326, "RE: Brake Dilema"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Well if you like junkyard surfing I'd go look for some rear brakes from a GS/TSi/GST and 2 pot DSM brakes from a 3KGT/Stealth/GSX/TSi AWD. While your at it get some slotted rotors and metal masters. It could be cheaper on you if you go to a auto Dismantler or a Pick N pull junkyard. I got my TSi rear brakes for 80 bucks, with the hubs! Rear Discs are nice, they look nice too. As for the AEm that's the ultimate, Baer, Wilwoood, are insane! Your car isn't that heavy so you probably don't need that much braking power.


95 Mitsu Eclipse RS
AFX Pulley | Performance Muffler | Cold Air Intake | KYB AGX Shox | Skunk2 Coilovers | FU, RU, RL, and RRE FL Tie/Strut Bars | RS to TSi Rear Disc Mod | RS to TSi upgraded F&R Sway Bar | 97' Spyder Eclipse 5 Spoke Wheels | and 1 HiGhLy SkIlLeD DrIvEr! |


http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

  

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TeamDeanoDMay-15-01 02:59 PM
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#2327, "with other aftermarket calipers....you have master"
In response to Reply # 1


          

cylinder issues. You knew I would jump in Mike...LOL
You are correct, you need to know your needs before you can fulfill them. I considered the same options you are faced with. Here is what I have found out since then.

Owning the front KVR rotors with Hawk HP+ pads and stainless lines....I have more braking power than I will ever need. I have been working on threshold braking for 3 months(one driving school included)and find it difficult not to lock up the front brakes if I brake too late. They are pretty darn sensative. I also did not want the extra rotation weight of the larger rotors.

BTW: I am using factory GS-T/GS rear rotors with KVR carbon/kevlar pads. They do not heat up enough to require crossdrilling. I think crossdrilled in the rear is for looks only. There is something to be said about looks emoji

Another option: If you really want bigger brake rotors, Just get the GSX calipers with larger KVR crossdrilled rotors(or other manufacturer). The cost will be fairly similar for both options then. 2 piston is better than one and our master cylinder can handle it. Stainless lines will help make it less spongey due more pedal input required.

I will be thinking about ya when I bring home another first place trophey in STS this weekend. 2gnt/Neon RT kick butt in this class....something to think about.


Good luck, whatever you decide



DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
http://ar.dsm.org


97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

  

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Teameclipse804May-15-01 06:48 PM
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#2328, "RE: with other aftermarket calipers....you have master"
In response to Reply # 2




          

I read somewhere that cross-drilled rotors actually heat up MORE than non-crossdrilled. I think it was because it has less material to dissipate the heat. However, it also cools down faster than the noncrossdrilled. I think the max temperature hit on the cross-drilled is higher than with stock rotors though? Is that correct? If I were you, I'd go for the AEM fronts and leave the rears for now, since the AEM are bigger, and look WAY better too. But then the track dilemma is kinda hard - maybe you can skip the rears, and get an extra set of powerslots in the front?

eclipse804@hotmail.com
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________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

  

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TeamMichael_97RSMay-16-01 12:15 AM
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#2329, "RE: with other aftermarket calipers....you have master"
In response to Reply # 3


          

Deano I was hoping you would emoji That's good to know about how good our small rotors can be. And I guess I can upgrade to the GS-X rotor caliper and still ge STS class... hmmm.

I've heard the argument about heat and cross drilled. But I don't think that I buy that arguement, and here's why. The rotor and pad material deturmine the amount of friction created. And friction is what creates heat. So less material meeting the pad I would think would actually create less heat and they dissipate heat faster. The only arguement that might have value is that there is less material to the rotor so they may warp faster. But I think this is combated by the cross drilling and superior cooling properties.

And basically on the rear rotors.the price it would cost me for a set or rear rotors to match whatever I choose for the front(yes pure appearance here) it's very close to the cost of the AEM Big Brake Kit for the rear $250. And the front kit is only $380, So with a little saving I can bite the price, it's just a matter of what I plan to do, I guess.

Plus I was thinking about this too. I had planned on using my 14" for the winter the few times I drove her, and the big Brake kit won't fit under those.

Well any more opinions keep em coming, I want here.

"To strive to seek to find... and not to yield."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Intake manifold 4 porting, Rear Motor Mount Ins. RRE FL Tie Bar(Well Almost), TSW Blade 17x7.5 with Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17 on the way!!!

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

  

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