I just failed the state inspection because the tie rod is loose on the passenger side. I was told I need the inner tie rod (from the boot to the nut) replaced and should do the outer (nut to the wheel) at the same time. I was quoted $349 for it and walked out. I have read a number of posts, but am unsure of the names for these. Are both of these together the tie rod end? Or are they seperate parts. I have read that some use a pickle fork and some ppl just tap it out with a hammer. Any tips for a poor unemployed newbie would help.

Thanks

Marc
Marc_henderson@hotmail.com

most likely your tie rod (control arm) is fine, but the tie rod end is worn out. when i was doing my clutch installation i had no idea how to take the axles out and i basically started to unbolt EVERYTHING. i tried to hammer the tie rod end out by using a BFH. DON'T DO THIS. it will mushroom the threads preventing the nut from going back on and you will get nowhere. never hammer directly on a thread.

tie rod ends are very cheap, i think the part is about $25-30. it's very easy to replace...

to do the job you will need a pickle fork (it's a wedge tool that looks kind of like a tuning fork, avaiable from any hardware/auto parts store for about $10) a bunch of sockets (i think the nut on the tie rod end is a 14 or a 15mm...?), and a few open end wrenches.

to remove the old tie rod end you remove the cotter pin that keeps the the nut on the bottom. unbolt the nut. once there is nothing holding the old tie rod end to the hub thingy, hammer the pickle fork into the old tie rod (jam it into where the rubber thing is). hit the end of the pickle fork HARD. ball joints are always a PITA to work with and they seize together all the time. this seperates it, and also destroys the old tie rod end. once it's seperated from the hub assembly thingamabob, there will be a nut further in on the control arm that you have to loosen. after it is loose you can simply turn the old tie rod end off of the control arm (the control arm is threaded)

it's a good idea to remember how many turns it took to take the old one off so you know how many times to turn the new one on. this way you won't have to get an alingment. if you forget how many times it goes on or whatever it's not that much of a problem, the worst thing that can happen is that your toe will be messed up by a few tenths of a degree (if that)

once the new tie rod end is on tighten up the locking nut, then insert it into the hub thingy, screw on the bottom nut, torque it to around 20 or 30 pound feet, stick in the cotter pin, and you're done.

this whole process took me about 5 minutes. very easy IMO.

if your whole control arm is FUBAR, it's a little more involved to replace, and it's also a lot more expensive. i think the part is about $250 ish for the whole control arm.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

I paid about $40 for the Tie Rod and about $60-80 for the labor.

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I paid $20 each for everything..... so $20 4 the inner x2, & $20 4 the outter x2 (did both wheels). So $20x4 = $80 2 replace inner & outter tie-rods on both sides. Oh, & it is very easy. I C no reason Y a shop would charge almost $400 4 that.

P.S.
Unless U count the threads precisely, U'll also need an alignment afterwards.

- J

- J

How do you replace the inner tie rods?

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

First off get the wheel off the ground. Grab it by the 9 and 3 positions and gently try to turn it. If you feel slight movement then you do need to change the inner tie rod. It isn't that hard and I was able to replace my wheel bearing, inner and outer tie rod and get an alignment in about 3 1/2 hours. The hardest part of changing the inner is acquiring the tool for it. Pep boys sells it and it is made by Lysle. $60 and it is worth the investment.
Steps:
1. Turn steering all the way to the opposite side you are working on. Makes it easier. Loosen the outer tie rod Jam nut.
2. Loosen the OTR Ball joint nut but do not remove. If there is a cotter pin take it off. If it is a lock nut loosen till the nylon lock insert is clear of the threads.
3. Use a pitman arm puller or similar tool to pop the tie rod loose then remove the nut and OTR.
4. Remove the clamps that hold the dust boot on and carefully slide off the boot.
5. Slide the Inner Tie Rod tool over the ITR and insert the proper crows foot. (1 1/4") MUST hold the rack at the flat to prevent damage to the steering gear pinion!!!
6. Reverse for assy. Look at book for torque specs.
Do it yourself and save the money good parts (Moog, TRW) are fairly inexpensive. Good luck!

What does the inner tie rod tool look like? At what do you mean by holding the rack at the flat?

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

The tool is a tube about 16" long. Closed at one end with 1/2" sq drive at one end and slightly larger in dia at the other. It has a sliding retainer for the included crowsfeet. You put the tube over the ITR and the crowsfoot over the flats on the inner end of the TR. Slip the two together, rotate the retainer to lock it in place. The "Rack" is flat where the teeth are that mate to the Rack pinion. If you don't use something to prevent the race from rotating during removal of the TR you risk damage to the Rack Pinion by bending or chipping of the teeth. The tool is also good because it gets the ratchet out in the wheel well where it is easier to get to. If I can get my camera to work and fiure out how to post pics here I will put them up tomorrow.

That'd be great.

Also brings me to my next question, how do you hold it, w/ some vice grips?

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Ok Here is the tool (I hope!)
Guess not...gonna take some time to figure this one out! You hold the rack with smooth jaw pliers of some type. I used a 12" adjustable (crescent) and apply equal pressure to each tool to loosen. Worked like a dream!

Thanks, points for you!

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

I'm assuming you did the driver side one, because I'm doing the passenger side one (have the tool, a new inner tie rod, and a new boot), and there is not "flat" to put grip the pinion w/. It's just circular tubing on the passenger side. I'm not sure what I can do, it does look strong enough to be able to take the loosinging of the tie rod, but I'm not certain, I really don't want to bend my rack.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

I'm going to put the tool over the inner tie rod and hit it with an impact wrench, that should cause less torsional damage then just trying to twisting it off w/ a ratchet. I really don't want to twist the rack and have to get a new rack & pinion cause I hear they are over $600.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

I'm working on the right side, so if you turn the wheel right, none of the rack is exposed at all, and if you turn it all the way left, the only part of the rack exposed is cylindrical.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Hey Wick, What I meant was that if you turn the wheel to the right, the left side of the rack will be exposed. That has the flats to hold it. Only if you can still get the tool on the right ITR. If it isn't acessable in that configuration, then of course it won't work. I wasn't trying to steer you wrong...NO pun intended!

Please let me know how it worked out for you?

Well see the problem is that using a tool on the opposite side is pretty much pointless, since the thing your trying to protect is inbetween the side your twisting, and the side your holding.

I managed to get it off using an impact wrench, but it didn't seem like it was on very tight, so I could have just used a breaker bar.

I wrote a write up so if anyone else tries to do this they can know whats up.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=6&topic_id=23113&mesg_id=23113&page=

Thanks for your help Rick!

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Glad that I could be of some help! If ya ever need any more don't hesitate to drop a line!
Rick