#20520, "2 Unrelated Questions: Camber and rear drum-disc conversion"
I've got a 97 RS that's been lowered and on KYB AGX for a while. No camber problems, even without camber kits. Is this normal? I just moved up from 14s to 17s (same diameter, 195/70 to 215/45), and was wondering if I need an alignment after this swap, since the net diameter is the same? Alignments are like $50+ around here, and if I don't need one, that's $50 in my pocket. Like I said, tire-wear was perfect on the 14s.
Now, on to rear-brakes. Since I have a basically complete suspension that handles VERY nice (eibach prokit with KYB AGX, hard in front, moderately soft in the rear, very nice for eliminating understeer). However I have an RS with rear-drums, and I want to finish off street suspension work by improving braking. What is an efficient way to stop better and with more control? Should I just get slotted rotors upfront and be done with it, or would doing a disc conversion in the rear be worthwhile?
#20521, "RE: 2 Unrelated Questions: Camber and rear drum-disc conversion" In response to Reply # 0
Quote:
Originally posted by Fryguy I've got a 97 RS that's been lowered and on KYB AGX for a while. No camber problems, even without camber kits. Is this normal? I just moved up from 14s to 17s (same diameter, 195/70 to 215/45), and was wondering if I need an alignment after this swap, since the net diameter is the same? Alignments are like $50+ around here, and if I don't need one, that's $50 in my pocket. Like I said, tire-wear was perfect on the 14s.
Tire and rim size really shouldn't make a difference in the Camber. Did you get an alignment when you first had it lowered? If so I wouldn't worry about it
Quote:
Originally posted by Fryguy Now, on to rear-brakes. Since I have a basically complete suspension that handles VERY nice (eibach prokit with KYB AGX, hard in front, moderately soft in the rear, very nice for eliminating understeer). However I have an RS with rear-drums, and I want to finish off street suspension work by improving braking. What is an efficient way to stop better and with more control? Should I just get slotted rotors upfront and be done with it, or would doing a disc conversion in the rear be worthwhile?
The rear brakes play only a small role in stopping power. I would first upgrade your front brakes and then once you are happy with them, then you can upgrade the rears
Now this is all what I would do.
Allan 2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)
#20522, "RE: 2 Unrelated Questions: Camber and rear drum-disc conversion" In response to Reply # 1
For a front brake upgrade, can/should I just get like powerslot rotors off ebay for like $150 a pair or something, and then bring it to a brake shop and be like install these, and grab some new pads at the same time? Keep in mind this is simple street performance, so I dont' feel like throwing down $500+ on a big brake conversion. Also, will slotted rotors help or hurt my ability to drive/stop in the snow?
And yes I had an alignment done after the car was lowered/shocked. The only thing that was recently changed were the rims/tires.
Is it normal though that lowering 1.2 inches would still leave me in camber spec? I though every eclipse needed at least rear camber after lowering?
#20532, "RE: 2 Unrelated Questions: Camber and rear drum-disc conversion" In response to Reply # 2 Oct-14-03 03:15 PM by LeakyMitsu
no no no, no ebay powerslots... call ard (713-984-9140) and order brembo slotted and dimpled rotors(165 shipped). Dino suggested this to me about 3 months ago and ive been extremely happy with them since then. if you have any problems getting the rotors off( the bolt thing is stripped out ect.) IM me at klipz97 on aol because i had about every problem imaginable haha. good luck
im extremely happy to hear that your camber is fine without kits, because im doin pros with hp's as soon as i get time!
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