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Top 2GNT Technical Handling/Suspension topic #19932
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97eclipsSep-15-03 12:17 PM
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#19932, "Smoking brakes"


          

So my brakes went and decided to upgrade to the raceconcepts slotted and dimpled rotors...great deal. Upon removing my pads i realized that only the drivers side pads needed replacing and they were completely gone whereas the passenger side was pretty much intact. I had been noticing that the drivers side wheel area had been getting incredibly hot...very unusually hot. So hot that the high temp black pain that i used on the calipers flaked right off. Well today i replaced the pads and put on the new rotors and after the first test drive the drivers side brakes were smoking. I mean fuming smoke from the wheel well. What could cause this? Any ideas?

  

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thedawgSep-15-03 01:16 PM
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#19933, "RE: Smoking brakes"
In response to Reply # 0


          

Is your passenger side caliper functioning? Is there any wear on that side? Sounds like the driver side is compensating.

Which tire breaks traction first when you skid?

May simply need to re-bleed the brakes, or the hydraulic lines, or may need to rebuild/replace the caliper(s)...

  

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bono316Sep-15-03 01:57 PM
Member since Jul 14th 2003
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#19939, "RE: Smoking brakes"
In response to Reply # 0




          

It might be that your caliper piston is not fully releasing when you let off the brake pedal. If it's the piston, then basically it's as if you are 'riding' your brakes everytime you take your car out. The excessive heat will glaze your pads/rotors essentially rendering that side to the point that it's almost useless, in which case your passenger side will start to compensate and wear more quickly. How many miles do you have on your car? Maybe you should consider rebuilding both front calipers. Otherwise, you'll risk damaging those new rotors.

  

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TeamDeanoDSep-16-03 05:34 PM
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#19972, "RE: Smoking brakes"
In response to Reply # 2


          

I totally agree.

You can rebuild the caliper or replace it with a rebuilt one from a parts store(my suggestion).

If it has been a while since you completely flushed you brake fluid that might be part of the problem. Try taking a C-clamp and squeezing your caliper piston in slowly to push the fluid back up into the reservior. If it is stuck, then you may have a clog in the rubber brake line. Remove it from the caliper and now try squeezing the piston back in with the C-clamp. It may unclog that way. You may have to bleed the brake line with one good pump and make sure fluid squirts out the brake line. Now you know that both are free. If you find that you cannot bleed fluid out of the line, take it completely off and run a coat hanger through it. It it is totally clean and no clog, then it is farther up in your system. Post that problem later if that is what you found.

My guess is you will find either the caliper sticking(clog or corrosion buildup) or the rubber brake line has a clog.

Fix it before you drive the car again.

Something to think about. My buddy had a SUV that he could bleed the brakes normally throught the bleeder, but could not squeeze the piston back into the caliper. He replaced the caliper and when he applied the brakes the piston pushed out and locked. It could not be squeezed back in. He removed the brake line and found it was clogged massively. There was enough fluid getting by when he wanted to bleed or apply brakes, but the clog would close off the line when he tried to push the fluid backwards back into the reservior.

I know it is a long post, but thought I would explain throughly in case brakes were a bit of a mystery.


97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

  

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