Few days ago I lowered my car on Sportlines, KYB shocks, and Eibach camber kits. They all installed fine, and naturally the alignment was totally whack. So I took it in today for a 4-point alignment. Toe and Caster was able to be done fine and they were able to get the rear camber done pretty much to spec, but the mechanic told me the front camber could not be adjusted? Not sure exactly, I'm guessing that there was not enough degree in the kit to adjust it properly. Here are my front readings:

LF
Actual: +1.28
Before: +1.47
Specified Range: -0.58 to +0.42

RF
Actual: +0.65
Before: +0.99
Specified Range: -0.58 to +0.42

Should I look at getting another front camber kit? If so, what would be the best for my current front camber settings so that I can get it into spec? TIA

from what i always thought, lowering a car will give you negative camber. and by using camber kits, they will give positive camber to correct the negative. the specs you got now look like you didn't even need a front camber kit. since you seem to be too positive on teh front camber, it's looking like that's why you're not within specs. i never needed a camber kit for the front so i could be wrong.
later

2GNT #1865
2006 Yamaha YZF R6 (Blue/Black)
2005 Honda CBR 600 RR (Blue REPSOL)
2003 BMW 325I Premium/Sport Package
2003 Honda CBR 600 RR (sold)
1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (sold)
Shuwa's links:
http://www.facebook.com/Shuwa29
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b50/shuwa29/



DarkOne> but we all have that inner ricer that is just dying to come out sometimes...

Hmm.. isn't it the rule of thumb that if you're going over a 1.5" drop that you'll definitely need a front camber kit? Weird, think it would check into spec if I installed the stock camber kit again?

like i said, i've never needed a front camber kit. true, i am dropped 2 inches but also, my 18's did help out a bit. but honestly, i'd ask the allignment shop or wait for some peeps on here to reply first.
later

2GNT #1865
2006 Yamaha YZF R6 (Blue/Black)
2005 Honda CBR 600 RR (Blue REPSOL)
2003 BMW 325I Premium/Sport Package
2003 Honda CBR 600 RR (sold)
1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (sold)
Shuwa's links:
http://www.facebook.com/Shuwa29
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b50/shuwa29/



DarkOne> but we all have that inner ricer that is just dying to come out sometimes...

Overboost.com originally said it was an Eibach camber kit with "camber change of +/- 0.75." Now after looking what all I had gotten, I noticed Overboost ended up shipping me the Specialty Products camber kit.. on the box it says "Change Camber +1.75 to +3.25." This help with diagnosing my problem? Maybe give you an idea of what kit I need to get instead? Heh, sorry to bug you guys, just new to suspension tuning.

Hmm, a camber kit with 1.75 correction MINIMUM is a lot. From what you said in the first post, if you were to remove the camber kit you'd have -0.47 and -1.1. I suggest you get a kit with 0-1 degree correction.

___________
Black 96 GS

-Manny

Yes when you lower the car you will get negative camber. Then, if it's not within spec, you get a camber kit to add some positive camber. How much correction does that kit provide? It seems like you didn't need a camber kit in the first place.

It's odd though, cause some cars like Shuwa's don't need front camber kits, but mine which is not even as low as his was off by as much as -1.8 degrees in the front wheels before I got my kit. I guess our cars can vary like that.

___________
Black 96 GS

-Manny

Originally Overboost told me it was the Eibach kit with +/- 0.75 degrees of adjustment. This is not the case as I went back to the box and it is actually Specialty Products brand and allows for +1.75 to +3.25 degrees of adjustment. Not needing the kit afterall? Somebody told me to look for a +/- 3.0 kit and that should solve the problem..

the eibach camber kit sucks. this is exactly why. you need ingalls or a similar kit. not the eibach.

http://www.ocaddict.com

thanks beefgg for the sig